tune up time

tstang21 · Apr 16, 2008

so at the moment, im solving the little mishaps i have, but im about to do a tune up. what KIND of WEIGHT and BRAND oil should i use ? ive heard 10w30, 15w. im not sure. i heard to do royal purple but im not quite sure on a stang. it worked great on my nissan. second, what exact gap size should i set it at ?

also gear fluid. what kind should i use ?
i want to make my car run solid in stock form for the mean time once i get the mods in

thanks

95.0Stang · Apr 16, 2008

go royal purple all the way around. they have gear fluid and oil and I have never heard anything bad about their products.

tstang21 · Apr 17, 2008

on what i was told that royal purple burns oil quicker. but since i did research, i couldnt believe it. my uncle for exmaple uses it and he felt a difference in temp. what is the best weight to use and ( to refresh my mind) how many do i have to put in again ?

HISSIN50 · Apr 17, 2008

5.0 quarts of motor oil. You want to use the least viscous weight that maintains adequate pressure at all times. Most folks use 10W-30. Your climate is a factor (I.e. we're already in the mid 90's here, and will see 100-115* this summer). Brand is your call. I'd run a quality dino oil if that's what the car has had before. Otherwise even a group III synthetic is generally more than adequate.

Just because I can get it locally for a decent price, I use Redline in the pumpkins. Some of the lesser weights have friction modifier in them already. Because you change pumpkin fluid so relatively infrequently, pick a brand you are comfortable with. Also consider getting a Ford embossed gasket. They're about 10 bucks but reusable and very nice.

Good luck.

94-302-vert · Apr 17, 2008

I run 10-40 of the cheapest crap possible in my car... but with 177k on the motor (50k of the at with gears and mostly highway mileage) I know that I am on semi-borrowed time for this motor... at which point I will go full synthetic from day 1...

95WhiteVenom · Apr 17, 2008

Mobil 10-30 synthetic
I've used it since a year after I got the car.
It now has 210K miles on it and works like a charm.

Black95GTS · Apr 17, 2008

The various oil company claims are largely a myth. For whatever reason Valvoline is cheap around here so I've been using valvoline for everything. My uncle's 10 second car uses Valvoline. Switching to 4 dollars a bottle Royal Purple won't get him into the 9s. it doesn't matter. I buy my oil by the gallon from autozone. I use bosch filters, also from autozone.

When you do the pumpkin, really take it apark and wipe out the housing. Get all that old crappy gasket off the mating surfaces. You'll probably only do this once in the time you own the car. I also took a magnet and pulled it around in there and collected the shavings. Wiped it out real good with break cleaner. I used STP differential fluid with some generic friction modifier. The only gasket I used was a double bead of the blue RTV. I've followed this procedure when I had my stang, my dad's buick, mother's Blazer, and both of mine on my F150. No leaks, no issues.

When you're filling up the differential, a transfer pump is highly recommended! Gear fluid smells terrible and is slick as all get out. Not a pleasant job.

Adam

tstang21 · Apr 17, 2008

im planning on doing a complete engine flush so i could get all that gunk out. ok so 5.0 quarts i have to put in. i thought it was going to be 8 at first. so i guess you could use any synthetic oil no matter what the brand. i do like royal purple. if its not that, i favor both mobile 1 and castro synthec. but im not quite sure on what weight i should use for adequete pressure

i do want to put in fresh gear diff and tranny fluid.
also with that including flushing out the radiator and putting some redline water wetter ( this stuff works) and some sea foam for cleaning out injectors. also advanced the timing to 15 *

like i said before, i wanna ride on 1 strong pony

HISSIN50 · Apr 17, 2008

tstang21 said:
im planning on doing a complete engine flush so i could get all that gunk out. ok so 5.0 quarts i have to put in. i thought it was going to be 8 at first. so i guess you could use any synthetic oil no matter what the brand. i do like royal purple. if its not that, i favor both mobile 1 and castro synthec. but im not quite sure on what weight i should use for adequete pressure

i do want to put in fresh gear diff and tranny fluid.
also with that including flushing out the radiator and putting some redline water wetter ( this stuff works) and some sea foam for cleaning out injectors. also advanced the timing to 15 *

like i said before, i wanna ride on 1 strong pony

This is a testing thing. I'd run 10W-30 in the Spring/Summer and if it holds decent pressure (usually yhot-idle pressure is a good indicator). If your pressure is low, step up to a 10W-40 or 15W-40/50.

We should note that unless you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, you won't know what's going on. The stock gauge has no calibration - it's just a switch (above or below 6 PSI).

After getting a better feel for where you're coming from, I'd use some cheapo dino oil for right now.

Be careful with the timing advancing. 15* is a little high for a lot of 94-95's (fox III guys get away with it).

Good luck.

tstang21 · Apr 17, 2008

i heard from 1 person that works on 94 models that 5w40 is good. where should i set the timing at instead of 15* ? 13 *?

autumn_again · Apr 17, 2008

man i bet i probably run one of the thicker oils on this section.

20w50 with 2 different products to help my car from stop burning oil.

and the car still burns oil horribly .

maybe one day soon i'll know what its like to run thin oil hah.

HISSIN50 · Apr 18, 2008

autumn_again said:
man i bet i probably run one of the thicker oils on this section.

20w50 with 2 different products to help my car from stop burning oil.

and the car still burns oil horribly .

maybe one day soon i'll know what its like to run thin oil hah.

I've done this in the stangs before too, though it's generally when we have highs of 110*F and lows of 80-85*F. I used to run 50 weight racing oil in a turbo car many many years ago.

autumn_again · Apr 18, 2008

yeah, i may have to upgrade to an even heavier weight now, i ran 20w50 durin the winter, it wasnt horrible, but now its just starting to just constantly smoke.

Venom351R · Apr 18, 2008

I just bought new spark plugs, cap&rotor for a tune up and some fresh AMSOIL 10W 30. Ive used Mobil 1 for awhile but just figured Id try something differnt.

As far as what you should run just any 10W30 is fine. All the synthetics are good just dont run the bottom shelf walmart stuff like Cartech.

Venom351R · Apr 18, 2008

tstang21 said:
i heard from 1 person that works on 94 models that 5w40 is good. where should i set the timing at instead of 15* ? 13 *?

do you hear any pinging with the timing bumped to 15? Usual rule of thumb is to bump it to the point where you do hear it ping and then back it off a few degrees. Dont forget that once you timing is bumped you need to run 93 Octane.

tstang21 · Apr 18, 2008

Redline_351R said:
do you hear any pinging with the timing bumped to 15? Usual rule of thumb is to bump it to the point where you do hear it ping and then back it off a few degrees. Dont forget that once you timing is bumped you need to run 93 Octane.

no, i havent heard anything because i didnt do anything yet. i always use 93 regardless even on my little nissan cause i advanced the timing in it as well.

i heard good reviews about lucas oil and its no diiferent from royal purple except for the price which is cheaper.

95.0Stang · Apr 18, 2008

first of all you DONT have to run 93 octane if you bump the timing, I ran 89 with 14* on a previous Mustang for about a year with no ping at all, when i bumped it to 16* i only heard it at WOT, then again there are factory freaks that can do that, and probably more.

Here in Kansas we only have 91 octane for the most part, and only BP offers 92 that I know of, just use a premium 91+ octane fuel. with my current stock GT I run BP 92...why? Well I really don't want to run 87, I just do, that way when I get to the track I will be safe, I also plan to bump the timing and do other mods that would benefit from higher octane so I just keep it simple.

As far as oil goes, again Royal Purple is good stuff, but from what I understand there are only 2 TRUE pure synthetic oils out there, Royal Purple, and Mobil 1. I could be wrong, well actually they guy that told me that could be wrong, but he is an ASE mechanic, and I know he knows more about oil types than I do...

I am going to stick with my original opinion, and this is based on my plans for my next oild change...Royal Purple. I saw that Late Model Restoration has a 5 quarts and oil filter for $39.95 so I dont know why a feller wouldn't try it at least once. I also plan to put their 75w90 gear oil in my rear diff. its got 141k miles on it!

HISSIN50 · Apr 18, 2008

General comments not directed at anyones' posts:

I agree that if one has to add octane to accomodate a bump in timing, that is kind of a waste.

I think that mechanic is a little bit wrong. This would be with the common assumption that Group III oil is not a 'true synthetic'. Technically, it is considered a synthetic. PAO, PAE and other such basestocks are held in higher regard however.

I run ST synthetic oil in some of the cars. It's UOA and VOA numbers show it's decent stuff for the cost. Most folks change their oil way too often so it can be smart money spent.

95.0Stang · Apr 18, 2008

HISSIN50 said:
I think that mechanic is a little bit wrong. This would be with the common assumption that Group III oil is not a 'true synthetic'. Technically, it is considered a synthetic. PAO, PAE and other such basestocks are held in higher regard however.

I agree, but just putting that info out there.

HISSIN50 said:
I run ST synthetic oil in some of the cars. It's UOA and VOA numbers show it's decent stuff for the cost. Most folks change their oil way too often so it can be smart money spent.

How often do you change your oil? We all hear "every 3000 miles", but I have heard from the same mechanic that every 5000 miles was a good interval especially with heavy highway driving, but I keep changing mine every 3000 with almost all highway driving, once i got used to doing it, it has become more of a habit than a need.

HISSIN50 · Apr 18, 2008

95.0Stang said:
I agree, but just putting that info out there.

How often do you change your oil? We all hear "every 3000 miles", but I have heard from the same mechanic that every 5000 miles was a good interval especially with heavy highway driving, but I keep changing mine every 3000 with almost all highway driving, once i got used to doing it, it has become more of a habit than a need.

My big fear is not the oil breaking down or using up the addpack but rather contamination. For a car that is driven a lot of miles in a short period of time (where this is less of a concern), 5K from quality dino oil is decent. That said, I do mine at 4/4000.

With synthetics, I play it by ear. The bikes get synthetic and it's changed once a year. Same for cars that sit.

You could get a UOA to know just how long you can go. Dyson's analysis would really help decipher the numbers.

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