Turbo Motor Pics.. Need Opinions (DUW)

robbo1987*2.3* · Oct 20, 2004

ok

a lil off topic but i blew my headgasket the other day and was pullin it apart to fix it and i noticed that my #2and3 pistons were missin chunks out of them right where they meet against the cylinder wall on the backside. Th block feels fine no ridges or grooves butit looks like its been like this for a while and its been burnin a lil bit of oil. Oh yea i have three browntop injectors and the injector for #1 cylinder is black with a green ring around it( looks nuthin like the others) but the motor was runnin fine rightbefore i blew the headgasket. about how much should a set of stock replacement pistons cost me? Im doin all the work myself. Could i just go to the j/y and get two pistons( or all four) out of a turbocoupe and put them in after reringin them and honin the block? I just want my car back any help or info is greatly appreciated thanks

robbie

Stinger · Oct 20, 2004

The northern kit comes with all the gaskets you could ever dream of...everything needed to rebuild the engine and head.

I used to think the rubber gaskets where cool...until I went through a few of them. Got the high dollar ford gasket and it was leaking in 3 months...looked at my SVO that had the cork gasket and not a drip of oil...guess what I just put on my 91 now...cork

As stated, you will not be able to find stock replacement rings...they no longer exist (though I don't remember calling 140 names?).

The rings and bearings that come with the fel-pro kit are high quality...I wouldn't worry about them a bit if I was building a motor that I didn't plan to make more than 400hp with (not to say there is any reason they wouldn't handle more than that).

robbo...you can use some stock replacement pistons (35 bux each from speed pro) or some used stock ones (damn near free...don't go through the work of pulling them in the JY though, find someone who has some).

Stinger

Asha'man · Oct 20, 2004

Maybe I'm missing the obvious, and I don't have a head here to look at, but where are the cam bearings? In the cam towers?

I'll do some searching on valve grinding....if anyone has any good links, freel free to toss 'em up.

Ash

Dr_EluSivE · Oct 20, 2004

Asha'man said:
Maybe I'm missing the obvious, and I don't have a head here to look at, but where are the cam bearings? In the cam towers?

I'll do some searching on valve grinding....if anyone has any good links, freel free to toss 'em up.

Ash

Post what you find please, i am still wondering what to do with the head, My dad thinks that old seals arent bad because they might smoke a little on start up, but they help lube the valves better.. So i dont know.

Stinger.. should i Order the Northern Kit with the felpro upgrade? Or stay with the victors and swap in the couple of ford gaskets that 140 suggested. And you said it comes with gaskets for the head.. Does that include Stem seals? Also i would have bought the rubber VC gasket if you hadnt mentioned it.. use cork only right?

And i know this is gonna create conflicting opinions.. but the 1035.... Yes.. or no. engine is gonna see Hard street duty, drag stip on occasion but Stock T3 so probably 20 PSI max boost.

Dr.

140cilx · Oct 20, 2004

Dudes,

Change your valve seals so it doesn't smoke and get worse while you've got the simple opportunity.

On the valve job, here's the quick yet perfect way to do it (I think MikeSVOr has some pics of this on his website). Take the valvetrain apart, remove the cam, rockers, springs, valves and valve seals (since your gonna put on new ones right?). Take the exact valve for each valve port. #1 intake, #1 exhaust and so on, put a little valve grinding compound on the back side of the valve where it seals to the head, slide it back into the head, stick the vacuum line on the end of the hose, it's your handle to work the valve. With the head on the workbench laying on it's side you hold the vacuum line and work the hose back and forth in your hands in a left 360, right 360 quick motion. Back and forth, when the grit sound smooths out, push it out a quarter of an inch, pull it back in and repeat, you can watch the seal smooth on both the head and the valve. You'll put a nice even smooth seal all the way around it making it like new. Once the new smooth grind marks polish out to where the contact surface ends you are done. Pull the vacuum hose towards you (pulling the valve into the head) w/ a few pounds of pressure. I don't have pictures to show you, but it's very easy. You'll spend about 5 minutes on each with the average valve. Take the hose off, remove the valve, go on to the next one. This is how you do a valve job at home and it works great. I've done a whole bunch of heads now and a few motorcycle heads and all burn clean, no smoke, great compression. Clean everything up thoroughly before you reassemble.

I think Stinger will concur with me - with a cork gasket it's only a matter of time until it does leak. If you install correctly (which is easy) the Ford rubber cam cover gasket it won't leak. Stinger's coming down soon so I can do this for him. hee hee.
I'd get what Stinger said, but purchase from Ford those few I mentioned. Splurge a $20.
Another thing to remember Stinger takes his cam cover off more often than most - and were I doing it often I could go w/ the cork, but if I want to put it on, have no seepage or leaks, and forget about it, the Ford one rules. You can park my cars on your white sparkly tiled garage floors and rest assured no drippage. That's a rare turboford.

I'm not just being different here, I'm trying to help the good Doc 'cause I know he's as picky as me.

Stinger · Oct 20, 2004

140cilx said:
Another thing to remember Stinger takes his cam cover off more often than most - and were I doing it often I could go w/ the cork, but if I want to put it on, have no seepage or leaks, and forget about it, the Ford one rules.

I'll agree with that one...I really don't think the cork one will leak for 2-3 years though...I'd imagine almost everyone would have the vc off at some point in that time. The trick I use is to glue it to the VC...that keeps it from ripping apart when removed (so it can be reused).

I will NEVER run the rubber felpro vc gasket again...I may give the ford rubber one another chance.

Also, definately replace the valve seals...it's cheap and easy. I don't remember if the metal encased ones come in the kit or not...

Red_LX · Oct 20, 2004

Why is NOBODY here at all concerned about the valve guides? Just out of curiosity. I've always heard about how hard 2.3's are on valve guides, and as I said, the head on the engine I'm redoing had several of the guides way out.

Anyway- 140 how much are the Ford valve cover and intake gaskets? Do you have the part numbers?

Asha'man · Oct 21, 2004

140cilx said:
Dudes,

Change your valve seals so it doesn't smoke and get worse while you've got the simple opportunity.

On the valve job, here's the quick yet perfect way to do it (I think MikeSVOr has some pics of this on his website). Take the valvetrain apart, remove the cam, rockers, springs, valves and valve seals (since your gonna put on new ones right?). Take the exact valve for each valve port. #1 intake, #1 exhaust and so on, put a little valve grinding compound on the back side of the valve where it seals to the head, slide it back into the head, stick the vacuum line on the end of the hose, it's your handle to work the valve. With the head on the workbench laying on it's side you hold the vacuum line and work the hose back and forth in your hands in a left 360, right 360 quick motion. Back and forth, when the grit sound smooths out, push it out a quarter of an inch, pull it back in and repeat, you can watch the seal smooth on both the head and the valve. You'll put a nice even smooth seal all the way around it making it like new. Once the new smooth grind marks polish out to where the contact surface ends you are done. Pull the vacuum hose towards you (pulling the valve into the head) w/ a few pounds of pressure. I don't have pictures to show you, but it's very easy. You'll spend about 5 minutes on each with the average valve. Take the hose off, remove the valve, go on to the next one. This is how you do a valve job at home and it works great. I've done a whole bunch of heads now and a few motorcycle heads and all burn clean, no smoke, great compression. Clean everything up thoroughly before you reassemble.

I think Stinger will concur with me - with a cork gasket it's only a matter of time until it does leak. If you install correctly (which is easy) the Ford rubber cam cover gasket it won't leak. Stinger's coming down soon so I can do this for him. hee hee.
I'd get what Stinger said, but purchase from Ford those few I mentioned. Splurge a $20.
Another thing to remember Stinger takes his cam cover off more often than most - and were I doing it often I could go w/ the cork, but if I want to put it on, have no seepage or leaks, and forget about it, the Ford one rules. You can park my cars on your white sparkly tiled garage floors and rest assured no drippage. That's a rare turboford.

I'm not just being different here, I'm trying to help the good Doc 'cause I know he's as picky as me.

That's precisely what I was looking for, I think I can picture it just dandy now. One more related question....d'you need a special tool for the valve seals? Maybe I'm getting them confused with valve guides...which one does the shaft of the valve actually run through? You know, CC - through guides? - top of the head. Like Red said, how hard or important are they to change?

Ash

140cilx · Oct 21, 2004

Red, I just haven't run into a head that needed new valve guides yet - that's all. I don't have the part numbers, sorry.

Ash, The valve guide is the metal part of the head that holds the valve stem, the seal is mounted on top of it, hidden under the valve springs. Some people use a tool. I just pull them off w/ my hand, and then when I put the new ones on, I push them on w/ my hand, I'll hold a towell in my hand so I can get a good grip on them to push them snugly to their stop. It's actually pretty fun, not work to intimidate you. Very simple and repetitive.

Asha'man · Oct 21, 2004

Terminology.... That sounds straightforward enough. Would there be a way to tell, assuming I stripped the head down myself, if the valve guides needed work and therefore if I needed to take it in for 'em? Play in the valve stem, maybe?

Ash

Turbo Motor Pics.. Need Opinions (DUW)

robbo19872.3

Stinger

Asha'man

Dr_EluSivE

140cilx

Stinger

Red_LX

I’m not much help unless you’re looking for ****!

Asha'man

140cilx

Asha'man

Similar threads

Turbo Motor Pics.. Need Opinions (DUW)

I’m not much help unless you’re looking for ****!

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency