I have been having so much trouble figuring out how to use the tweecer properly so I have been calling shops to see if they would do it and they all say to get rid of the tweecer and use a 4:1 fmu and msd btm. I have these parts so its not a problem but was wondering what everyone else thinks. I dont understand how I would need an fmu since wot under boost I go to 10-1 afr. Any one have any opinions? I should have about 13lbs of boost.
TWEECER VS. FMU??
- Thread starter CONCRETEWARFARE
- Start date
I actually just had the same response. I just completed putting on a S-trim w/42lb inj. and was looking to get it dyno-tuned and have a chip burned for it. I called a very reputable Mustang shop and was told to NOT ditch the FMU and MSD 6btm. He told me he has lots of customers out there running this setup anywhere around 400 - 500 hp all the time with no problems.
If you have a Tweecer or tuning device and the engine is mechanically sound. Then tune the car with the device. IMHO an FMU and other things are ways around to get the engine running properly. With a Tweecer you don't need an FMU as you can tune the engine, same thing with MAF and injectors no more need to get "calibrated" MAF to injectors. Tune the computer to use the MAF and injectors properly and there won't be problems.
IMHO otherwise you are just tricking the computer to run and not "fixing" the problem to being with.
If your still having problems, then go to EECTuning.org • Index page and everyone there is more than willing to help. They will help you understand the tuning part, not give you a tune for your car. There is a learning curve with the Tweecer or QH or any of them that you do yourself.
IMHO otherwise you are just tricking the computer to run and not "fixing" the problem to being with.
If your still having problems, then go to EECTuning.org • Index page and everyone there is more than willing to help. They will help you understand the tuning part, not give you a tune for your car. There is a learning curve with the Tweecer or QH or any of them that you do yourself.
strtrcr50
New Member
If you're running 10-1 under full boost, I'm not sure what you'd accomplish by putting on a fmu besides a non controllable fuel curve. As far as timing, to make it easy, disable WOT mode spark control(scalar z_wspksw) If you go this route, tune your spark in the sealevel and altitude tables.
They are telling you these things because it's what they are comfortable with. Others are telling you to tune it because THATs what they're comfortable with. Methods are like A-holes... Everyone's got one and they all stink but mine... or something like that.
I personally prefer controlling it with a chip I can manipulate. I think FMUs make it harder for a fuel pump to pump the right volume, but you can add an in-line pump to make up the difference.
Chris
I personally prefer controlling it with a chip I can manipulate. I think FMUs make it harder for a fuel pump to pump the right volume, but you can add an in-line pump to make up the difference.
Chris
FMU's are generally a band-aid for people that dont want to upgrade to larger injectors, they are basically a bandaid. and if your 10:1 at WOT you obviously have plenty of fuel so an FMU will do nothing for you.
Call a shop and get a chip burned and call it a day, or play with the tweecer and learn to use it yourself
Call a shop and get a chip burned and call it a day, or play with the tweecer and learn to use it yourself
Your right people either use or tell people what they are comfortable with, without a doubt.
It's funny that on the fox bodies that tuning isn't required, when on the newer mustangs tuning is required, they both run computers that control the engine.
You have a tweecer, you spent the money might as well use it. Once you get the understanding of the what it can do, you'll have the car running much better than with an FMU and I agree I'm not sure what the FMU or MSD BTM will gain you.
Again my personal opinion, but I had a friend that went the fmu route and such with quite a few mods on a 306 and it just never ran right (IMHO), either way to rich at idle and fine in the top end or fine at idle and way to lean at the top end. He said it ran great, I didn't get it.
