Understanding the 3-Speed on the 66.

[Reaper0-1]

So I replaced the clutch on my I6 200 66 Mustang and now it runs like it supposed but ;

1) I'm getting chatter from the transmission when I step on the clutch pedal.

After installing the new clutch set, the transmission did not make these noises but once I adjusted the rod that hold the fork...It started making noise. Oh and it only chatters when the clutch is engaged, after you've press on the pedal far enough to pass free play and you're touching the clutch.

2) Anyone know how to properly take out free play on the clutch pedal?

I read the manual but there's still too much play for my taste and I feel like I've reached the end of the rod to the point that if I go any further It will fall out or snap off.

3) How do you transition from Neutral to 1st or Reverse without gears clashing?

Let me clarify this, How do you transition from neutral after you've gone up the gears and drop back to neutral while coming to a complete stop (or at least I believe so cause I'm not moving) and then finally go back to 1st gear without feeling/hearing your gears clashing. What I've noticed is that the transmission is still moving even though I come to a complete stop some how. I know this cause I ease in to first gear and feel/hear the gears clash but it stop rotating. I then pull out of first, step off the clutch pedal then press on it again and drop it on first. Second the third engage normally but first doesnt.

 

[rbohm]

So I replaced the clutch on my I6 200 66 Mustang and now it runs like it supposed but ;

1) I'm getting chatter from the transmission when I step on the clutch pedal.

After installing the new clutch set, the transmission did not make these noises but once I adjusted the rod that hold the fork...It started making noise. Oh and it only chatters when the clutch is engaged, after you've press on the pedal far enough to pass free play and you're touching the clutch.

did you replace the throw out bearing? if so did you use the correct one? how did it fit on the input shaft retainer?

2) Anyone know how to properly take out free play on the clutch pedal?

I read the manual but there's still too much play for my taste and I feel like I've reached the end of the rod to the point that if I go any further It will fall out or snap off.

ok the first thing to do is go through the linkage and make sure all the bushings are in good condition and tight. make sure the linkage is also in good condition.

3) How do you transition from Neutral to 1st or Reverse without gears clashing?

ok remember that first and reverse are NON synchronized gears. so when you come to a complete stop, first shift into second gear before then shifting into first or reverse. this will stop the input shaft and gears from spinning, making it easy to shift into first or reverse.

 

[Reaper0-1]

1)Yes, I replaced the Throw on bearing, it clipped on to the fork and it fit over the input shaft.

2)When you say linkage are you talking about the Z bar it has? from what I've seen the clutch pedal is directly linked to the fork. I didn't noticed any bushing...there were just 2 points where it has a cotter pin and washer.

3)Is that the way you're supposed to drive that transmission? that just sounds like a disaster in a heavily populated area like Baton Rouge or New Orleans, lol I mean in the end I'm switching out the transmission to a 4-speed or T5 if I can ever find one but till then this 3-speed sucks ass.

 

[rbohm]

1)Yes, I replaced the Throw on bearing, it clipped on to the fork and it fit over the input shaft.

good.

2)When you say linkage are you talking about the Z bar it has? from what I've seen the clutch pedal is directly linked to the fork. I didn't noticed any bushing...there were just 2 points where it has a cotter pin and washer.

the clutch linkage is everything from the pedal to the throw out fork. there are bushings at either end of the Z bar where it bolts to the block and the chassis.

3)Is that the way you're supposed to drive that transmission? that just sounds like a disaster in a heavily populated area like Baton Rouge or New Orleans, lol I mean in the end I'm switching out the transmission to a 4-speed or T5 if I can ever find one but till then this 3-speed sucks ass.

my 64 falcon, and my old 66 falcon both have the same transmission, just with a column shift. however i have gotten good enough to where i can down shift into first gear WITHOUT grinding the gears while the car is moving, AND i can do it WITHOUT using the clutch as well. in fact i have gotten to the point where i just need the clutch to launch the car, or start it, after that regardless of whether the trans is synchronized or not, i dont need the clutch to shift gears, up or down.

in fact, twice i had to figure out how to drive both my 80 pinto, and my 66 falcon without using the clutch at all. on the pinto the clutch cable failed, on the 66 falcon the clutch itself failed. that meant starting the car in gear to get going, and dumping it into neutral to come to a complete stop.

 

[Reaper0-1]

Are you supposed to move it in 2nd gear before switching to 1st? I tried shifting to 2nd without releasing the clutch, then dropping it to neutral and reengaging the clutch and shifting to 1st but it still clashed. I tried moving in 2nd but when it worked I was already moving which means I was just downshifting.

 

[rbohm]

Are you supposed to move it in 2nd gear before switching to 1st? I tried shifting to 2nd without releasing the clutch, then dropping it to neutral and reengaging the clutch and shifting to 1st but it still clashed. I tried moving in 2nd but when it worked I was already moving which means I was just downshifting.

you need to disengage the clutch, THEN shift into second gear, then shift into first. if you put it into neutral then release the clutch, then disengage it again, all you will have done is to get the input shaft and gears moving again.

 

[Reaper0-1]

Just tried it, worked. lol

 

[rbohm]

Just tried it, worked. lol

 

[Olivethefet]

I had a 64 f100 with a three on the tree, did the same thing. First and reverse are not synchronized, so they will grind unless you shift it like rbohm is suggesting. Not the best design for modern urban driving, but you'll get the hang of it. For now it will just be motivation to get on that transmission upgrade!