Upper control arm bushings

[forfamily]

Have a 68 coupe that is in need of new upper control arm bushings. Anbody been there?

In going through the manual, it says to torque the bushings to specs, however the only specs in my manual are "upper arm and inner shaft to body" 75-100 ft-lbs. This seems like the torque for the shaft to the body, it isn't for the bushings to the control arm is it? Is it that big of a deal anyway.

Also the manual recommends pulling the whole wheel assembly first, is that necassary as well, or just make it "easier" to work on.

Any other tips or things to watch out for would be appreciated.

 

[D.Hearne]

Change the whole upper "A" arms. It's a whole lot easier than just doing the bushings. New "A" arms come with both the bushings and new ball joints. The bolts ( studs actually) that attach the arms to the body are about 5/8-3/4" in diameter so that torque figure is correct.

 

[forfamily]

Thanks, any idea what the whole A arm with bushings and shaft would run?

 

[D.Hearne]

About the same as you'd pay for the bushings and ball joints separately, but they're already installed, so that in itself plus the new A arm makes them the best deal. Actually it's better in the long run to change ALL the front end parts at once, instead of piece-meal. Saves a LOT of work down the road. You buy all the parts, jack the car up, take everything off, bolt all the new parts on, get it aligned, and your done with it. Companies like Mustangs Unlimited sell the whole ball of wax in a kit, or one piece at a time. Many other suppliers do as well.

 

[2bav8]

Might want to talk to Opentracker.
He's sells a really nice set of stock upper arms that have been gone through. www.opentrackeracingproducts.com

 

[BornInAFord]

That's http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com (with 2 "r"s)
Daniel

 

[2bav8]

LOL - my bad

 

[forfamily]

Thanks.
I checked prices at a couple places yesterday and it looks like a front end kit is running $100-200 over just getting the upper arms, so I will probably go that route.

Have a neighbor (68 Cougar) who said to be careful when compressing the springs as it can be bad news if they get away from you. Any suggestions?

 

[D.Hearne]

You can borrow a spring compressor from Autozone, Advance, and probably a few other chain parts stores. Just follow the instructions.

 

[Cupid]

You can borrow a spring compressor from Autozone, Advance, and probably a few other chain parts stores. Just follow the instructions.

Look for the one that had the one long screw in the middle with 4 claws attached. With this one, you just stick it in your shock tower, clamp it as high and as low as you can and screw away! I used the other version yesterday and let me tell you, it was a PAIN! You have two separate clamps with two separate bolts to screw. It took me forever and I wasn't able to get my impact wrench on one of the bolts so I had to use an open ended wrench.

Anyway, good luck!

 

[Jester67]

Look for the one that had the one long screw in the middle with 4 claws attached. With this one, you just stick it in your shock tower, clamp it as high and as low as you can and screw away! I used the other version yesterday and let me tell you, it was a PAIN! You have two separate clamps with two separate bolts to screw. It took me forever and I wasn't able to get my impact wrench on one of the bolts so I had to use an open ended wrench.

Anyway, good luck!

This is called an internal spring compressor “ single screw with 4 clamps” this is the better type to use. The screw might be to long for the job so you can stack washers or iron pipe couplings to take up the distance at the head end. I would also use a chain or some other device to hold it in the car and be VERY VERY CARFUL when handling these as compressed springs can kill yah.

 

[forfamily]

Well I ordered the kit. Classic case of while you are in there, end up getting one with steering componenents as well...and to think I started out looking at replacing a 30$ part! Oh well, do it right the first time?

Hope to work on it next weekend, hopefully I won't be logging in with any distress calls!

 

[Cupid]

Good luck. I started out with an "around $500" suspension rebuild and now i'm over well over $1K. Everything will be new and i'll have the so called "free" Shelby Drop.... After a $60 1/2" drill and a $15 17/32" drill bit, yeah....it'll be free. Good luck and take lotsa pics (before/after).

 

[D.Hearne]

Well I ordered the kit. Classic case of while you are in there, end up getting one with steering componenents as well...and to think I started out looking at replacing a 30$ part! Oh well, do it right the first time?

Hope to work on it next weekend, hopefully I won't be logging in with any distress calls!

Bought new springs too ?

 

[garystocker]

shelby drop specs

Good luck. I started out with an "around $500" suspension rebuild and now i'm over well over $1K. Everything will be new and i'll have the so called "free" Shelby Drop.... After a $60 1/2" drill and a $15 17/32" drill bit, yeah....it'll be free. Good luck and take lotsa pics (before/after).

how does one find out how exactly where to drill etc. for the shelbydrop?

 

[mustangman1974]

If you try to replace the upper bushing and shaft they are designed to strip the threads on the arm on dissambly. Very rarely do they come out correctly. You usually have to weld them back in. I think you did the wise thing and bought a kit. Saves sooo much time then trying to salavage parts for rebuilding.

 

[D.Hearne]

how does one find out how exactly where to drill etc. for the shelbydrop?

Do a search for it, there's a few sites that have the template drawings for it that you can download

 

[Opentracker]

http://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/up-cnt-temp.pdf

Here ya go.

John

 

[forfamily]

Ok everything is back together! Yeah!
Went about as expected, difficult coil springs, a ball joint that refused to seperate...

Big thanks to whomever (restoman?) suggested the "hardware special" for seperating the ball joints in different string, it worked much better then the rental tool at Autozone!

Question now though, we replaced the tie rods and although I tried to set them to the same length as the old ones, we are "toed out" big time. Although I will take in for alignment my prefered mechanic is further away and I would rather try and get it closer before taking it in. Anbody have suggestions, or just get the tape measure out and start measuring between the tires?

 

[Protowrxs]

...or just get the tape measure out and start measuring between the tires?

You got it. I always measured up as high as I could get on the tire that was even front and back. Back her up, drive forward and stop, measure front and back of the tire on the same tread spot, back her up, pull forward, measure and do again as needed.

They'll get it exact at the alignment shop but that should get it close.

Congrates on the rebuild!!

-Stephen