Vaccume Problem?

awschubert

New Member
Jul 25, 2006
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Phx, AZ
I have a 93 5.0 and just recently (within the last 3 days) it has felt like it was missing when i would start the car and drive. I checked the plugs and they all looked ok to me, the plug wires were really old (factory) and also changed the distributor cap and rotor. After doing all that it feels like it is still missing. What is exactally is doing is when i start the car and the RPM's go up then back down it shakes the car pretty violently. If i were to revv the engine up and let the RPM's come back down it continues to do that. When revving up it doesnt shake the car as bad. When I'm driving it constantally is feeling like it is missing and keeps shaking the car. I have heard from a couple ppl that it could be a vaccume leak and wanted a few more opnions. HELP PLEASE!:bang:
 
Sounds like one cylinder is acting up. A cylinder balance test is a super quick easy way to find an otherwise difficult miss (so long as the miss is not random).

Or double check the plug wires for being connected tight and that the firing order is correct.
Good luck.
 
I stupidly just did a tune up on my car plugs and wires because of a bad stumble in the morning. It cleared up at higher rpms and after warm. Anyways after the tune up the car still ran like garbage. Poped the hood and had a vaccume leak from the pcf tube. Replace with a vaccume line I had and problem solved.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Sounds like one cylinder is acting up. A cylinder balance test is a super quick easy way to find an otherwise difficult miss (so long as the miss is not random).

Or double check the plug wires for being connected tight and that the firing order is correct.
Good luck.


I checked all the plug wires, they are all on there good and tight... How would I go about testing the cylinders? The vibrtation is getting worse everyday...
 
Bolt on 5.0 said:
I stupidly just did a tune up on my car plugs and wires because of a bad stumble in the morning. It cleared up at higher rpms and after warm. Anyways after the tune up the car still ran like garbage. Poped the hood and had a vaccume leak from the pcf tube. Replace with a vaccume line I had and problem solved.


I keep hearing to check that.. Im gonna check it out and get a guide to all the vaccume lines.. Keep the info comin tho thanks!
 
We should have asked first off - does your HB look alright? That can shake fillings out of your head when it lets go.

For the cylinder balance test, look in your repair manual in the code retrieval section. ALternatively, you can look in the code reader manual (if applicable). I would post it but I always have to read as I go - the gist is that after KOER codes, you blip the throttle and let it do it's thing.

It's a neat test and only takes about a minute to run.

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
We should have asked first off - does your HB look alright? That can shake fillings out of your head when it lets go.

For the cylinder balance test, look in your repair manual in the code retrieval section. ALternatively, you can look in the code reader manual (if applicable). I would post it but I always have to read as I go - the gist is that after KOER codes, you blip the throttle and let it do it's thing.

It's a neat test and only takes about a minute to run.

Good luck.

whats HB? I ran codes on it and the KOER code that it gave me was KOER 11 - which was Passed all tests.
 
awschubert said:
whats HB? I ran codes on it and the KOER code that it gave me was KOER 11 - which was Passed all tests.
Harmonic Balancer.

The Cylinder balance test can be run (with your prompting) after retrieving codes.

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Harmonic Balancer.

The Cylinder balance test can be run (with your prompting) after retrieving codes.

Good luck.

Ok Cool, I had another guy say to check that also... I really appreciate it... I will get back with you guys and let you know what happens... Thanks!!!:hail2:
 
Well I tried doing a test on the Harmonic Balancer, but couldnt figure it out. I talked to a few more people and that is what they keep saying is the problem.... I went out and bought one and tried replacing it but it is impossible for me (even brought a friend to help) to get the bolt that goes into the balancer loose. I have pried on it, used a torch on it to try to break it loose, used 2 diff. spray looseners (PB, liquid wrench) and havent gotten any luck from that either... Any other recomendations?
 
awschubert said:
Well I tried doing a test on the Harmonic Balancer, but couldnt figure it out. I talked to a few more people and that is what they keep saying is the problem.... I went out and bought one and tried replacing it but it is impossible for me (even brought a friend to help) to get the bolt that goes into the balancer loose. I have pried on it, used a torch on it to try to break it loose, used 2 diff. spray looseners (PB, liquid wrench) and havent gotten any luck from that either... Any other recomendations?
Put the car in 5th gear, apply the e-brake and then get one of your larger cheater bar out. It's held on with quite a bit of force.

Dont forget to remove the washer under the bolt head before you try to use the removal tool.

Good luck.
 
With dilagance and motivation I finally got it. I ended up having to get a socket wrench with a thicker longer handle and a crowbar and just pushed really hard, and it finally broke loose. I got the old balancer off and the new one one and now the car runs like new!!! This i will say is not an easy job and you must have patients but the persistance paid off. Hope this helps out anyone in the future who may run into this problem. Thanks everyone for the advise and help.