Valve Clatter; No Rocker To Pushrod Contact

Hey guys. So I recently did a head swap. Really basic, just Ditched the E7s for some GT40Ps with crane beehive springs. I am running an E cam, and after I got it all back together, I developed a really nasty noise in the valve train. Sounded like a broken rocker. So I pulled the rocker covers and upper intake, and didn't find a broken rocker, but the rear pushrod on cylinder #4 (exhaust valve?) was not touching the rocker and there was a little play in it. I pulled the pushrod expecting it to be bent, but to my surprise it's straight. Rolls pretty easily on a flat surface. I suspect a collapsed lifter, just coming to you guys for second opinions before I pull the lower intake again (I hate sealing lowers )
Now I have checked my pushrod length and they seem to be just right. My rockers are non adjustable pedestal mounts, so I believe preload is not an issue. any other possibilities or is my issue a failed lifter?

If so, why would it have gone bad, and should I go ahead and replace them all at once, or just the one?

Got it. And I've been looking at 2 sets of lifters; the comp cams units and the FRPP units. I'm thinking the FRPPs will be fine for my E cam, but if the comps will be much better I'll do that. Or if anyone had another suggestion let me know.

Part numbers are comp cams 851-16 and Ford Racing M6500-R302H

What are the advantages of a short travel race lifter adder?

And E cam because it works well with the GT40P heads, and it passes CA smog. Car is a 5 speed with 4.10 gears

I would consider changing the cam. At this point I just want the car running properly. I am running crane beehive springs so that issue is taken care of

Is there a relatively sure way to know it's my lifters before I go ahead and pull the lower manifold & replace them? I'd like to have as good an idea as possible before I do that.

I did not. I was told that I would be fine when I was putting it all back together. I believe I was fed some misinformation that may have led to improper valve train geometry.

I was planning to measure for correct pushrod length before I order new lifters so I can order the new lifters and pushrods together. Is that misguided? Should I order the new lifters, then measure for correct pushrod geometry because the lifters affect that?

It was seriously an awful noise. Not just a little lifter tick; sounded like a broken rocker. LOUD.
Initially the noise wasn't there, I drove the car 7 or 8 miles, no major ticking problems, but I had a serious lack of power, couldn't get the t stat housing to seal, electrical issues, exhaust leak, etc. car sat for a few weeks while I fixed those issues, then I got it running good. I let it idle maybe 3 min to warm up, then drove it around the block (I'll admit I drove it kind of hard around the block) and immediately the noise started. Like I said this was not just a little tick, it was loud and obnoxious. So much so that it was pretty much all I could hear even with flow master 40s and a catless h pipe. I drove the car about 5 miles to see if it would go away, and it only got worse. I parked the car thinking I had a broken rocker or bent rod or something, and when I pulled the valve covers, all I found was the rocker on #4 exhaust valve not touching the pushrod. Maybe .200" play, so a substantial bit. I took the pushrod and stuck it into the lifter and with very little pressure, it dropped down probably another 1/4 inch. None of the other lifters did that; all pretty much had enough stiffness that they didn't give at all when I pushed relatively firmly. I know this is rare, but I honestly don't know what else it would be.

I shimmed the valve springs correctly, if I remember, each exhaust side needed .020 shims, and each intake side needed .010 shims. Though I could be wrong, I just remember it was uniform on every cylinder. head was resurfaced at a professional machine shop, looked to be very little material taken off, though I did not cc the chambers, I used ARP head studs, and strongly doubt the head gasket is the issue but who knows.

I am in the midst of checking for correct pushrod length right now, maybe that is the problem, but so far it looks like stock length is leaving wear marks directly in the middle of the valve stem, so I have a suspicion that my geometry is in fact correct.

Will short travel lifters affect my pushrod length? I would rather not have to get adjustable rockers if I don't have to.

So I believe I've found my problem. Broken rocker pedestal. Now why would these break and where can I buy just a new set of pedestals?