Valve Clatter; No Rocker To Pushrod Contact

Update: broken pedestal was not the problem. There is still tons of play in the rocker on number 4 cylinder even with an intact pedestal. I don't even know if that was the rocker that the broken pedestal came off of. So say it's not a collapsed lifter, what could it possibly be?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Update: broken pedestal was not the problem. There is still tons of play in the rocker on number 4 cylinder even with an intact pedestal. I don't even know if that was the rocker that the broken pedestal came off of. So say it's not a collapsed lifter, what could it possibly be?
I dont quite get how you didnt notice which rocker the broken pedestal was from?
Regardless, chances are that it is from cyl 4 if the geometry is messed up on it. Not really sure... So compared to other pushrods at base circle that one sits lower ? If so then yah i guess something is up with the lifter. Probably want to take a look at them if thats the case.
 
I literally pulled all the rockers off, pedestals, bolts, plates and all and set them down trying to keep them together. Later on I noticed a few broken pieces of pedestal in my pile of rockers.
So I assumed it was from cylinder 4, and I put a good one back on. Noticed that cylinder 4 exhaust rocker still has up/down play at base circle, whereas none of the other rockers do.
Today I will set it back to TDC compression stroke, and pull the lower intake
 
Possible, but curious because I have a fully nonadjustable valvetrain. I brought it to zero lash then counted the turns it took to reach 20 ft lbs of torque on the rockers, and I got 3 turns. That suggests the opposite; too much preload. However when I checked wear patterns on the valve stems, they all looked to be centered, suggesting my pushrods are in fact the correct lemgth
 
Possible, but curious because I have a fully nonadjustable valvetrain. I brought it to zero lash then counted the turns it took to reach 20 ft lbs of torque on the rockers, and I got 3 turns. That suggests the opposite; too much preload. However when I checked wear patterns on the valve stems, they all looked to be centered, suggesting my pushrods are in fact the correct lemgth
Dayum! 3 turns is a ton, you might have been close to bottoming out the lifter. Factory spec is 3/4-1 turn and that is supposed to put you at the 'midway' point in lifter travel. I recommend no more than 1/4 for best performance personally. Add in some thermal expansion - after a few minutes of driving - and you well could have bottomed out that lifter! Really badly. I'm not really sure how exactly that would have caused your issue, but it can't be good. At the very least you'd be getting major valve float and loss of power, increased noise. Get the preload set right next time !
 
Which effectively shortens the pushrod correct? I have ordered new pushrods and a shim kit, but the pushrods I ordered are 6.300 instead of the 6.270s, so I may have to order another shim kit..
 
This is the suspect lifter. What is going on here?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    105.4 KB · Views: 143
You've got to tear down. The roller and pin could be lodged down between the crank and a main support.

I wouldn't even crank that engine... I'd be taking it out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
There's a good chance you could find it in the oil pan, but there's probably other damage already taken place in the motor... Damn that sucks!

Now what I would do (take it with a grain of salt), is get a good lifter, piece it back together and put on the rockers, and hand crank the motor to get an idea of where you might be at. Might give you an idea of whether you can clean things up externally before committing to a tear-down.