valve train lifters still ticking

[stevesLX]

O.K. guys I really need some help here. I am still having ticking in my valve train. I had head work done valvejob and block work done. I have put new lifters in and aluminum roller rockers and my preload is at .043 and I still have ticking going on. If the car is idleing its quiet but if you rev it up or drive it you can hear it both inside and outside the car. I am out of clues as to why this thing wont stop ticking. But it is nerve racking. Since I have gotten the motor back I only have about 250 miles on it. The lifters and new rockers have about 60 miles on them. I adjusted preload on these TDC.

 

[302RollinHard]

Let me tell you a little story.
I just built a 358W and installed it. I used Blue Racer (Crane) 1.6 RR and new lifters, measured pushrods and got new and the works. I adjusted the valvetrain on the stand. Engine installed and running was clicking/rattling and kinda loud (audible but not "something is really effed up" loud--the ever accurate description of a sewing machine on crack), adjusted the valvetrain in the car--same result. Took it to a speed shop and had it adjusted by the pros--$240 later same result. Alls I can say is some are more noisy than others. My FRPP rollers were much quieter, I can say that, but I had a different cam in the car and they were pedestal mount as well.
Pedestal or stud mount rockers? What kind of cam specs you sporting? High ramp rates and lifts are a little trickier to keep quiet IMHO.
A little more info would help us help you.

 

[stevesLX]

I have pro form aluminum pedastal roller rockers non adjustable. I have ford racing roller lifters and as far as cam its a 303F cam. I dont know any specs.

 

[302RollinHard]

Did you check for proper pushrod length? Whenever you change a cam, you should do this as cam base circle can change from cam to cam (even from f-cam to f-cam due to manufacturing tolerance processes). Also if you changed type of head gaskets (ie-compressed thickness) or had the block decked, you have to check for proper pushrod length.
If you checked for length--
I am kinds foggy on the whole pedistal mount rocker adjustment, but I remember something about finding zero lash and if you didn't reach specified torque on rocker retaining bolt @ about 1/2-3/4 turn from zero lash you need to adjust pushrod length. Somebody more familiar with the process help this guy out.

 

[stevesLX]

The cam thats in there was in there when I bought the car. The way I torqued these down was TDC on the compression stroke thru the whole firing order. I did this with the manifold off. I was only getting 3/4 of a turn on them. I checked preload on 4 of them and they were all pretty consistent at .045. That should be plenty however I still have noise. I have been battleing this for 3 weeks now. I have replaced lifters rockers pushrods and still no releif. I even went as far as using amuch longer rod a week ago and my preload was at .070 and thats a little over whats reccomended but even then it was still noisy.

 

[302RollinHard]

i am at the end of my ability to help.
Ever checked it for an exhaust leak? They can sound like valvetrain noise.

 

[stevesLX]

yes I have checked for exhaust leaks cant find any. I had a guy today that told me that it sounds like a few of the rockers are hitting the valve covers. He told me to double up my gaskets and the noise will stop. Dont know how accurate that is but how would onle a couple of rockers be hitting my valve covers and not all of them?