Engine Valve train noise after cam swap

BeesDad

New Member
Apr 29, 2020
28
2
3
Edmonton
Hi all, I finally got the engine back together after the cam, heads & intake swap. I was having problems with PTV clearance & had to fly cut the pistons. I measured (with a pushrod length tool) and determined that I needed longer pushrods. I determined I needed 6.400 so I bought a set & installed them. The first time I torqued the rockers to 19 ft lbs in between 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn & I had bad valve train noise. I readjusted the valves again using a different order & went to 21 ft lbs in about 3/4 of a turn but still it sounds like a sewing machine. I’m new to the Ford world so I don’t know what may be the issue or how to fix it, any info is appreciated. At least i was able to come up with a name for the car, I named it Lavergne after the home office of Singer sewing machines lol
 
  • Sponsors (?)


'some noise' is not normal.
I'm wondering about this because I am about to install P heads on my 89 block with 1.7 roller rockers.
Check the wear pattern on top of the valves where the rocker tips ride.
I will be doing the clay test on mine but it will be a minute. More like a week or too.
I was told my stuff should work with stock push rods and the 1.7s I'm gonna check the pvc
 
Hi all, I finally got the engine back together after the cam, heads & intake swap. I was having problems with PTV clearance & had to fly cut the pistons. I measured (with a pushrod length tool) and determined that I needed longer pushrods. I determined I needed 6.400 so I bought a set & installed them. The first time I torqued the rockers to 19 ft lbs in between 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn & I had bad valve train noise. I readjusted the valves again using a different order & went to 21 ft lbs in about 3/4 of a turn but still it sounds like a sewing machine. I’m new to the Ford world so I don’t know what may be the issue or how to fix it, any info is appreciated. At least i was able to come up with a name for the car, I named it Lavergne after the home office of Singer sewing machines lol

So I'm gonna guess the heads are studded...you don't "torque" the poly locks first, you run them to zero lash, then add the 1/4-1 turn or if you measure it, 0.020-0.060" lifter plunger preload, or have I missed something in your description?

If your PTV is properly measured/cleared with a solid lifter to accurately represent max lift, your geometry is correct, and your not losing oil pressure, you should have minimal to no rocker noise.

I've never had an engine with RRs that didn't make some sound...I wouldn't call it "noise", but they weren't silent either.

Post a video...
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 289
Advertised Duration: 282 int./289 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory
Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.513 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory
Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.529 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.513 int./0.529 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
Valve Springs Required: Yes
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Must use 351W Firing Order:
1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8
 
Shims are ordered & should be here next week sometime. I'm going to torque them to 15 ft lbs & make sure that the pushrods can still spin. I know that the way they are adjusted now that they do not spin at all. Once they arrive I will readjust them & report back. Here's to hoping it works...