Vapor Canister Purge Valve

Rjovi · Mar 20, 2009

I'm assuming that mine is bad but when I look it up online the one that I just pulled out of my 95 shows that it is for a 96. Is this anything to worry about?

The number on the one I pulled out is E4ZF-9C915-AA

Car always stinks, and I replaced the canister, but problem not solved. I suspect this valve isn't opening.

Thanks

99FiveOh · Mar 20, 2009

Yeah, does your car always wreak of gas? Mine does... let me know if that fixes it.

Even if it's listed for a 96, it's function is very basic, so if it plugs in fine I'm sure it will work with no problem.

Rjovi · Mar 20, 2009

Thanks, I thought about it more and was thinking the same thing, all it does is opens and closes..pretty basic. I'll let you know if it solves the problem.

Rjovi · Apr 5, 2009

So I tested it by running a line into my car while I drove and it never opened, so it was bad. Replaced it and tested, the new one started creating vacuum after driving for about 5 minutes. So far the smell is gone, I also replaced my vapor canister a few months ago so i think that was also part of my smell.

RIO5.0 · Apr 5, 2009

How much was the valve?? I just got one for my Pathfinder and cheapest was 131.00....

1987Rock · Apr 5, 2009

Over the past 5000 miles or so, my car has started to smell more and more like gas (smells like a race car runnin leaded race gas )
Where is the canister/lines to and from the canister? I wanna check to see if mine's working.
What does it do exactly? Does it collect excess fumes from the gas tank or what? I've never messed with the vacuum canister in any of my cars...

Chythar · Apr 5, 2009

Well, I'd first make sure that your fuel injectors or fuel lines aren't leaking fuel. That would be a very bad thing. The CANP is part the evaporative system; there's a charcoal canister in the passenger fender that collects gas fumes from the gas tank. When the computer decides to, it opens the CANP (canister purge valve) and vacuum from the intake sucks the fumes into the engine.

You should have one vacuum line leading from under the intake, over to the passenger's side of the firewall. That vacuum line attaches to a cylinder that has an electrical connector to it - this is the CANP. The hose continues on the other end of the CANP and leads into the fender to the charcoal canister.

The vacuum hoses rot over time and are probably leaking fumes from the charcoal canister. Replacing the hoses should solve the problem.

HISSIN50 · Apr 6, 2009

1987Rock said:
What does it do exactly? Does it collect excess fumes from the gas tank or what? I've never messed with the vacuum canister in any of my cars...

The EVAP system vents fuel vapor from the tank. In the old days the system was open (kinda like breathers for crankcase ventillation instead of a PCV system).

Some pics, courtesy of Keven

The cannister is the breadbox near the door hinges.

99FiveOh · Apr 6, 2009

Yes, mine has this smell too, but mine only comes when I put 1 window down. If I put 2 down I don't smell it anymore. I also smell it when the car has been sitting for a while with the windows up.

I know my gasket for the filler neck is good and no leaks in my engine compartment, I can't smell any fuel in the engine bay actually!

Rjovi · Apr 6, 2009

It was only about $30.00. I would take offf the front right fender liner and inspect the lines going to the canister like someone else said. I have read a lot of posts where the smell has been from the lines being cracked and worn. Testing the valve is pretty easy though, just buy about 8 feet of vacuum line and run it from the valve throught the passenger window while you drive. Also if the valve has been bad for a long time your canister might be saturated and stink also.

Rjovi · Apr 6, 2009

this is what it looks like

1987Rock · Apr 6, 2009

ok cool. I guess that'll be on my list to check very soon...thanks guys! :SNSign:

99FiveOh · Apr 6, 2009

couldn't you just run 12 volts to it and try to blow through it? It's a simple valve correct?

HISSIN50 · Apr 6, 2009

The_Mustang said:
couldn't you just run 12 volts to it and try to blow through it? It's a simple valve correct?

It gets accessory 12 V and the EEC sends a ground to open the valve. For bench testing, I'd disconnect it and apply your own fused 12V and ground (so you dont backfeed a ground into the EEC).

Mustang Snail · Oct 11, 2010

finally found the anwers

Tim1995 · Sep 11, 2013

This post is pretty old, but i was wondering if there is more then one on a car.. ? I found mine but when i called autozone they told me it comes in four. Which confused me, does the 1995 Mustang Gt come with more then just 1 ? If so where else could i find them ?

HISSIN50 · Sep 11, 2013

Tim1995 said:
This post is pretty old, but i was wondering if there is more then one on a car.. ? I found mine but when i called autozone they told me it comes in four. Which confused me, does the 1995 Mustang Gt come with more then just 1 ? If so where else could i find them ?

Just one. Borg Warner (to name one company) makes a replacement.

Tim1995 · Sep 12, 2013

Ahh okay. And that would be the thing to replace if I'm getting code 565? Either that or the hoses for it right ? Also is there a way to check if its the part that's bad or just the wiring ?

HISSIN50 · Sep 12, 2013

Note: Be careful of all hazards when dealing with an open fuel system and the risk of fire, explosion, etc.

It's quite likely that the lines to and from the solenoid have rotted. The egress line goes to the bottom of the plenum and not only does the fuel rot the line, but the heat bakes it. The line going from the solenoid to the passenger fender-well can rot pretty nicely too. If you have doubts, replace it all. You might have to pull the plenum to remove the egress line because it's tight under there and the line was baked to the nipple (so grab a plenum gasket beforehand).

The solenoid receives constant accessory 12V power and the computer modulates the ground.

Tim1995 · Sep 12, 2013

I was looking at that, but decided that maybe i wouldn't have to replace the hoses cause the service light comes on once in awhile, usually when i rev.. Actually every time it comes on is when im between the rpms of 3-4,00. Even then its still iffy when it does come on. Ill just redo all the hoses for it and change the actual part just to be sure. Also, ill look into taking the plenum off on video's but its pretty basic right ? Take off 6 bolts that attach it on and lift up on it to get the hose off ? Then scrap off the old gasket and put on a new one..

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