Wake up the auto
- Thread starter Mustang_GT_02
- Start date
decoy562
New Member
streetstang03
unModerator
all that will be perfect 
Stedda sells the tranny cooler for $50 and the PI Stallion tq converter will work great. try and get a converter that is over 3K rpm
Stedda sells the tranny cooler for $50 and the PI Stallion tq converter will work great. try and get a converter that is over 3K rpm
mike2858
Founding Member
The 4.10's, converter with the J Mod should make you quicker than a stick with 4.10's IMO. You will get more in terms of 1/4 mile performance going this way initally than motor. I have only a JMod which is the only way to fly and it made a huge difference especially for like 90.00 and this include the trans fluid! The good thing for you is that the 99+ cars do not have to change out the accumulator pistons like on my 97. You will save 30.00? So for 60.00 you will get a change equivalent to gears at 400.00.
My J Mod setup- Accumulators- 1-2 Blue upper Spring and no lower, 2-3 no springs. Separator Plate drilling- Mild specs
I get, at WOT, 15 ft of rubber in second gears shifts and quick 3rd gear shifts. That is with a 215 hp GT and now maybe 235 with my mods. The best part is when driving easy you would never know you did anything. Chirps at about 3500 and above.
Best mods in order of gain so far-
J Mod - as above - 90.00
MAC-O/R H Torque and everywhere Baby! ( 96-98's have six cats to your 4)Stock catback sounds good. Don't waist 400.00 on Aftermarket catback for 3hp. - Used - 50.00
Pulleys Piggybacks- Gain in mids and small bottom. The new one piece March would be better- Used 85.00
Ported upper - slight mids and upper- 12.00 in Dremel discs
K&N Filter- Response/Torque. Small Change is part of the overall Boost though - cheap 40.00 Do not buy the flashy CAI that net you nothing for 150.00
MAF Resistor- Depends on the outside temp. Winter- messed with mpg.
5.00
So for 250.00 plus a elbow grease these have transformed my Mustang from a slug.
I am doing 3.73's soon. Need to keep some mileage.( it is my outside sales car.) Converter would be great but again it is my daily sales car.
My J Mod setup- Accumulators- 1-2 Blue upper Spring and no lower, 2-3 no springs. Separator Plate drilling- Mild specs
I get, at WOT, 15 ft of rubber in second gears shifts and quick 3rd gear shifts. That is with a 215 hp GT and now maybe 235 with my mods. The best part is when driving easy you would never know you did anything. Chirps at about 3500 and above.
Best mods in order of gain so far-
J Mod - as above - 90.00
MAC-O/R H Torque and everywhere Baby! ( 96-98's have six cats to your 4)Stock catback sounds good. Don't waist 400.00 on Aftermarket catback for 3hp. - Used - 50.00
Pulleys Piggybacks- Gain in mids and small bottom. The new one piece March would be better- Used 85.00
Ported upper - slight mids and upper- 12.00 in Dremel discs
K&N Filter- Response/Torque. Small Change is part of the overall Boost though - cheap 40.00 Do not buy the flashy CAI that net you nothing for 150.00
MAF Resistor- Depends on the outside temp. Winter- messed with mpg.
5.00
So for 250.00 plus a elbow grease these have transformed my Mustang from a slug.
I am doing 3.73's soon. Need to keep some mileage.( it is my outside sales car.) Converter would be great but again it is my daily sales car.
NiteRydaGT
New Member
Here's the Stallion torque converter http://www.racenet.net/drivetrn/precision-stallion.php and as far as the driveshaft I don't know. I do know that the price of the driveshaft went up in price $100.
streetstang03
unModerator
Mustang_GT_02 said:
www.converter.com
driveshaft u can find at any Mustang shop online....www.brothersperformance.com or Dallas Mustangstreetstang03 said:www.converter.com
for driveshafts it always says for 5-speed only
streetstang03
unModerator
Mustang_GT_02 said:
I heard that it doesnt matter. Just a little modification required, but Im not sure exactly what. Hopefully someone will chime it!!!
Forget about the timing adjustor and Jerry mod shift kit, for the gears youll need a chip anyways which will adjust both the timing, shifting, shift firmness, and a bunch of other things. Id go with the superchip programmer or diablo. I have the superchip and I love it. Im also looking into a torque converter, is an aluminum drive shaft really necessary if you get the converter? If someone could explain exactly what "stall" means such as a 3k or 4k stall that would be great. Also how hard is it to install a torque converter how long will it take, what other mods would I need. Thanks
SliverStang
Member
so I can just walk into my tranny shop and tell them that I want the Jerry mod done and they will know what im talking about?
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
03gtmustang said:
I say forget the timing adjuster because the dyno will take care of tha but still get the shift kit anyway. The shift kit is not used for correcting shifts. It's used to increase shift speed and firmness. To increase shift firmness electronically, you'll have to adjust line pressure and increasing line pressure is a big no no.
As for the torque converter, I got mine from Steve at www.houstonperformance.com It was shipped to the door for 714 dollars. Mine is set for a 3000rpm stall. The stall speed is the speed at which you have to reach before the torque conveter will allow maximum torque multiplication. The higher the stall, the more rpms are required but at the same time, the further the torque mulitplication is increased. However, you don't want to go with too high of a stall speed on a street car as the higher the stall speed, the more rpms you need to get moving. I say 2800-3500rpm stall is perfect for a street/strip car. The install of a converter is not something that should be done in a drive way with standard tools. You have to drop the transmission out or pull the motor completely out of the engine bay to get to the converter. I got mine installed for free because my transmission was being rebuilt under warranty and they installed it when they went to put the transmission back in.
As for the driveshaft, I have one waiting to go in when I do my gear change. I got one because I'm basically rebuilding the entire rear end and I figured it would be good to change out the driveshaft for something stronger so I dont have a "weak link" in the chain. I also got a driveshaft safety loop with mine so in case if for some freakish reason the driveshaft falls out, it wont smack through the floor of my car. The driveshaft I bought is for a five speed. It will fit as long as you swap transmission yokes. I bought mine for around 150 bucks. However, the price on aluminum driveshafts has increased dramatically since then. I think they're up to over 200 bucks now at most places.
Should you(or anyone else) decide to race your automatic car or start building it up, I highly advise a transmission cooler as heat tends to be the number 1 killer of automatic transmissions.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
SliverStang said:
Go to www.tccoa.com and read their articles on the 4r70w transmission. Then, print out the articles for the "Jerry mod shift kit" and take the papers to your local transmission shop. They'll know what to do from there. All that needs to be done is a few springs must be pulled from the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons and the holes of the seperator plate in the Main control unit(valve body) have to be enlarged.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
Mustang_GT_02 said:
A lot of the guys in this thread have recommended good places. I'll recommend Houston Performance again. They carry the Precision Industries Stallion series converters. They are about the best you can buy. I got mine from them. 714 shipped to the door. Here's their website.
www.houstonperformance.com
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
Mustang_GT_02 said:
All these mods are good, especially with 4.10's.
Torque converter - anything less than a 2800 stall is a waste. I have a 3000 stall in mine and love it. Got mine from www.houstonperformance.com for 714 shipped to the door.
Auto transmission cooler - I have the one from Steeda. Its pretty good. Costed me about 40 bucks but that was about 2 years ago and I'm sure the price has went up a bit. I also recommend the GVW 24,000 cooler from B&M transmissions. Its very good and fairly inexpensive. They also make one now with a electrical fan attached to enhance the cooling effect but its a bit more pricey. In the end, its probably worth it though. I think summit carries the B&M coolers.
www.steeda.com
www.summitracing.com
Driveshaft - You can buy a FRPP aluminum driveshaft for a five speed and swap transmission yokes to make it fit. I highly recommend this if you're building up your drivetrain. Get it with a driveshaft safety loop for about 35-40 bucks extra for insurance. I got mine from www.stangstore.com You might want to browse around though and see where you can find it the cheapest. Price on aluminum has sky rocketed so its going to be hard to find it for under 200 bucks but I'm sure you can if you look.
Jerry mod shift kit - I have it and love it. I wouldn't have any other shift kit. Its safe and effective. Jerry Wroblewski was the designer of the kit. He was a Ford engineer at one point in time and he knows more about the 4r70w transmission than anyone else. Go to www.tccoa.com and read their articles for the Jerry mod shift kit and the 4r70w automatic.
If you have any other questions, just ask.
Dark Knight GT
I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
03gtmustang said:
Yeah, the price is a draw back. Not just for the converter but because you have to get it installed too. I say get one anyways, they are one hell of a mod for the automatic. Before I got mine in, I could take off from a dead stop and even though I floored it, I couldnt get any tire spin. I just hooked and went. Now, if I floor it from a dead stop I spin all the way to the rev-limiter and will spin even into second gear.
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