Wanna install AutoMeter Oil Press Gauge and keep stock one working???? HERE is how

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
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0
46
Portland, OR
Cheap and easy
You gonna need 4 fittings from AutoZone ,they cost $8 all together
Like you can see i don't have A/C but i still have A/C bracket so you guys who have one you will be fine

Here is a few pics , i hope this gonna help someone

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RIO5.0 said:
Fram filter...:eek: That's scary....:D

You ever get your idler pulley???

I use to run STP all the time but i find out i got better oil pressure with FRAM
Nope i didn't get pulley yet, reason why is this pulley bad is because of darn belt , it won't go on easy , but bearing is good
 
Slow5.0 said:
I use to run STP all the time but i find out i got better oil pressure with FRAM
Nope i didn't get pulley yet, reason why is this pulley bad is because of darn belt , it won't go on easy , but bearing is good
try a motorcraft filter :nice:
 
SeventyMach1 said:
Thanks a bunch Ernan. I'm wanting to do this.


What all do I need to ask for at the parts store? Sizes or part #'s?

I hope i can help

I'm not good with exact names of thosed parts but i have receipt next to me so i gonna tell you part #s and short names from receipt

CP7556 "Oil Pressu" $1.25 (it was on clearance ,real price $4.99) and this is Oil pressure kit , i just use T , that 2" male 1/8 pipe was too long (power steering / A/C bracket was too close)
321132 "Brass Adap" $1.99
321002 "Brass Fema" $1.99
321204 "Pipe Ftng" $1.29
All those 4 parts are bought in AutoZone

You will have to use that 1/8 to 1/4 adapter that comes with AutoMeter gauge because hole on block is 1/4

And you will need to rent in autoZone Power Steering Pulley Puller part # OEM27031 to remove steering pump and then bracket to make installation easyer

I hope this helps , let me know if you need more help , i could go again AutoZone with cam and took pics of each part i use in this little project (Autozone guys know me good because i'm there almost every other day buyin something :rolleyes: )
 
Okay Ernan. Finally getting ready to do this. Gonna go to the parts store tomorrow to get the fittings.


One more question. Do you really HAVE to pull the PS pump & bracket for this ..... or is there a way around it?
 
SeventyMach1 said:
Okay Ernan. Finally getting ready to do this. Gonna go to the parts store tomorrow to get the fittings.


One more question. Do you really HAVE to pull the PS pump & bracket for this ..... or is there a way around it?
I have two elec gauges (stock and aftermarket) and stock accessories and didnt. I did the install from under the car though.

Have fun Justin!
 
SeventyMach1 said:
Okay Ernan. Finally getting ready to do this. Gonna go to the parts store tomorrow to get the fittings.


One more question. Do you really HAVE to pull the PS pump & bracket for this ..... or is there a way around it?

I tryed BUT thereis little spaceto work, belive me itseasyer to take out A/C power steering andbracket then have BIG time hard time installing OP with those parts in there
Go in AUtoZone and rent power steering puller , its easy
 
sweet... I'll probably do this when I put in my OP gauge, thanks for the tips!
Now, this might be a dumb question, but do you guys know of a way to keep the stock water temp. gauge working when you install an electric WT gauge? I hear there is an extra location in the lower intake that you can install the new sensor in, is this what you guys did? I want to install both gauges at the same time and want to keep both stock ones working as well.
 
1TallMF said:
sweet... I'll probably do this when I put in my OP gauge, thanks for the tips!
Now, this might be a dumb question, but do you guys know of a way to keep the stock water temp. gauge working when you install an electric WT gauge? I hear there is an extra location in the lower intake that you can install the new sensor in, is this what you guys did? I want to install both gauges at the same time and want to keep both stock ones working as well.
I used the rear port on my fox, but my '94 didnt have the dead-head port.

Grab an FRPP chrome water neck (they leak) or a parts store cast unit (they're butt ugly and rust) and put the stock sender in the new waterneck. Then you can put the aftermarket sender in the accurate stock location.

Good luck.
 
Where do the FRPP chrome necks leak? At the thermostat? Or at the sender? Or where the hose connects? Can it be made to NOT leak? I gotta get one or the other.


Oh, and who makes the one that the auto parts stores have?


Can the stocker be made to accept a sender?
 
SeventyMach1 said:
Where do the FRPP chrome necks leak? At the thermostat? Or at the sender? Or where the hose connects? Can it be made to NOT leak? I gotta get one or the other.


Oh, and who makes the one that the auto parts stores have?


Can the stocker be made to accept a sender?
Justin, some folks have flange true-ness issues (I dont know how widespread that is - I have read about it) and others have problems with RTV not sticking to chrome. :rolleyes: Sanding the chrome off has helped some. I wouldnt use that part myself.

I got my cast stat housing from AZ for 10 bucks. See if they list and stock one for your car - if not, Ill dig around and find a part number. RC got his at DAP (we aint got those here). It comes with a port for the sender - plug and play. That's probably cheaper than tapping your OEM stat for a bung. But that could be done too.

Good luck.