Warning light after warning light

[JordanB21]

My has been having several flashing dash lights. and I do mean flashing. The coolant light sometimes will blink on for a few seconds then off then on then...well it'll do it for a minute or so then won't till my next drive. Oh and yes it is full.
The check engine light always comes on when I get onto the highway from my house after about 10 seconds on the road and stays on for another 4 minutes or so down the road then shuts off.
I also experienced the low coolant light and the light next to it(can't remember what it was) flashing on and off back and forth a few days ago.
Oh and the last one, just two days ago the brake light came on (the E-brake was off) and it was on the rest of the day while since then its been off.

Ideas for these warning lights?


side note: If you saw my thread with pictures of my mustang I decided to go with stock lights, maybe i'll go with the 3 horizontals and splice in descending lights like the newer stangs sometime in the future.

 

[91TwighlightGT]

Replace your coolant level sensor, they always go bad on these cars.

Check your brake fluid level. If it gets low, it will trip the light. If you haven't looked at your brakes in a while, check those too. As you use the brakes, the fluid level will naturally drop because the pistons in the calipers are pushed further out and allow more fluid into the calipers themselves.

You need to scan the computer for the check engine light. Either use the paper clip method (search) or go to Autozone/Advance/Auto parts store of your choosing and pick up a code scanner for your car. The old OBD1 scanners are cheap.

 

[JordanB21]

Alright I figured it was the sensors, I just wanted someone to reassure before I replaced it.

I've scanned it before not too long ago and the only codes that came up were the 311 and 314 which were suggested to replace a few hoses to take care of the issue (haven't gotten to it yet). But would a code still read if the check engine light isn't currently on at the time of scanning for codes?

 

[betke76]

Yes

 

[jrichker]

No info about your car's model year, EFI or carb, no mods listed. Makes it hard to troubleshoot when we don't know what you have.

Therefore, no clue as to which wiring diagram you may need. The wiring changed several times between 79 & 95.

That's why it is a good idea to use the sig under the user control panel (User CP) option. It allows you to post your car year & mods, which help greatly when troubleshooting things. No, it is not there for us to snoop and see any "Secrets" you have hidden away under the hood. Be a good stangnetter and update you sig for future reference & don't keep us guessing.

 

[JordanB21]

I figured since I was posting here it was assumed I drove a 94 or 95. But it's a basically a stock 95 GT. The car originally only saw repairs as needed and was never modified for performance.

But i'll go make a signature right now, i've been meaning to and that's a great reason to, thanks.

 

[jrichker]

Your post ended up in the 5.0 Tech forum,which is the general 5.0 forum. There is a SN95 or 94-95 Tech forum that is specific for your car.

Here's some help dumping the codes...

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[JordanB21]

I last got those two codes(the 311 and 314) a month or two ago. I could actually head over to the mechanic I see(I'm friends with him) and pull them again if you think I should check for codes again.
That methods interesting, and no doubt it works but it seems more of a hassle if I have code reader available