Water In Oil After Intake Manifold Gasket Change

87lc2

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Oct 16, 2005
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Intake manifold was leaking oil on the ends so decided to replace the gasket. Used Fel-Pro gaskets with the end seals and sealant where the heads meet the block and around the water passages. Everything went back together fine so changed the oil and went for a short drive. Noticed there was some coolant coming out of the corners at the front of the manifold so checked the oil and its a milkshake, tons of coolant/water in oil.

What could have gone wrong here? I know most people dont use the rubber end seals, but theyre actually not leaking at all. I know the gasket didnt shift during install because I used 4 studs to keep it in place. Car s 100k mile bone stock car, no aftermarket head or intake. My best guess is the seal around the water passages. I used sealant there on both sides of the gasket so would think it would be OK.

Going to tear it back apart when I have some time, just looking for some opinions on what could have went wrong here. Have replaced manifold gaskets more than a few times and never had this problem, very frustrating. Any input appreciated.
 
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jAEded

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Aug 12, 2013
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That sucks... I use super black RTV as the end seals, but I use the FRPP M-9439-A50 intake gaskets.

Make sure and follow the proper torque down procedure for the lower. I also use a little grey rtv on the intake gasket water ports, a little schmear on both sides around the water ports.

Edit: Usually I let the car heat cycle a few times and re-torque the lower one last time. It kind of sucks because of the stud for the heater tube makes it hard to re-torque once back together, but I haven't had any leaks.
 
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mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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most likely your gaskets shifted. Get the Felpro intake gasket kit with the better intake gasket and the rubbber end seals-MS 93334 . I use right stuff in all four corners. Lay a very LIGHT smear of right stuff around the water jacket. If you put to big a bead it will make the gasket walk and distort.

Also, you need to be very careful when laying the intake down and following the proper torque seqeuence. You also need to retorque the intake after a heat cycle

Last, did you check the intake and head surface for warpage.
 

jAEded

Active Member
Aug 12, 2013
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Also, one trick I learned. When you lay the lower down, make sure the lower is sitting flat and even and in correct alignment. I take all the bolts and screw them in so there is no slack between the bolts and the intake. Not even finger tight, just till it stops on the intake. I've had them loose then went to torque the first bolt and had the whole intake rock up. This prevents that from happening. I also use gasgacinch on the head and head side of the intake gasket. Only on the intake ports. I do what Mike said around the water ports.

Edit: If you use rtv as the end seals. I put a very light bead on the intake and maybe a 3/16 - 1/4" bead on the block. Set the intake down so its sitting in correct alignment on the block and heads. I do the torque sequence in 3 steps. I only do the first one, so maybe 7 pounds or something. Then I let it sit overnight so the rtv can harden, and do the 2 remaining sequences the next day, then heat cycle, and do it again.
 
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87lc2

Member
Oct 16, 2005
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I did use the 93334 gasket set and gray rtv on the water jackets. I might have had too much rtv around the water passages, used a bead instead of smearing it. Thats might be the problem. I also didnt retorque after the first heat cycle. Can you get to the bolts with the upper on?

Anyway, thanks for the tips guys. Guess it'll all come back apart and get done all over again. At least I wont have to clean the original gasket off of the manifold and heads again...