water temp gauge

a_k

a_k

New Member
Nov 12, 2004
170
0
0
Saratoga NY
#1
The stock one I ahve now jumps real bad and I never know what my temp is. Tommarow I am putting on my pullies and with summer I would like to know how hot my engine really is. So I want an autometer guage but I don't know if it should be electric or mechanical. I read from the searches that mechanical is more accuate, (increments of 1-2 opposed to 5-10) but I dont know if that is true. Also which is easier to install, and I really don't want a dead guage in the dash, but its not that big of a deal if it has to be. I just want one guage for now but I don't know where to mount it. I was thinking of getting another guage and mounting two on the a-pilar but im unsure of how it would look. What do you guys think?

Thanks
Adam
 
#2
When I installed my mech. water temp gauge I put it where the original electric sensor went on the lower intake. I then put the electic sensor in the hole where the oil runs through on the lower intake, so I dont have a dead temp gauge in the dash. Also the mech gauge wasnt hard to install, took about 20 min. including mounting pillar and guage.
 
#3
anyone think copper tubing would be fine for a mechanical water temp guage inside the car? I'm gonna mount some in a gauge cage in the center vents and don't know whether I should splurge $50 on 6' of Braided Stainless or if the $8 for 6' of copper tubing would be adequate? I know braided stainless would look a lot better. I'm not real anxious about spending the $250 these guages are gonna cost me :(
 
#4
James, for a mechanical water temp gauge, it uses capillary tube (a flexible tube filled usually with ether). There is no need to worry as nothing can leak. :nice:
 
#5
Ooops, I think you might have meant oil pressure. The thing with copper is that it can chatter or even split - I have not had it happen with a gauge line though (yet). For that reason though, I do kind of prefer electric OP guages (I run mech water temp guages).

If you have spare money, it is hard to go wrong with braided line. Otherwise, copper should work alright, IMHO. Others might feel differently. :)

Adam, you sort of have my take on elec vs mech gauges so far (elec OP and mech water temp). As said, you can relocated the stock water temp sender to the rear of the lower intake or put it in the t-stat housing.

for OP, you can tee the original site and run both senders.

good luck.
 
#6
Definately not trying to steal the thread Adam :flag:

HISSIN, well, Summit doesn't say what kinda tubing comes with it....they just have one that's around $75 (ultra-lite 2 5/8 mechanical water temp) with 12ft of tubing. Then in the back, they have copper tubing and braided stainless. The thing is that I Don't have extra money, but want good stuff.

All 3 of the vehicles need stuff done, paying for college and I'd like to take a vacation this summer=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :(
 
#7
TheUser said:
Definately not trying to steal the thread Adam :flag:

HISSIN, well, Summit doesn't say what kinda tubing comes with it....they just have one that's around $75 (ultra-lite 2 5/8 mechanical water temp) with 12ft of tubing. Then in the back, they have copper tubing and braided stainless. The thing is that I Don't have extra money, but want good stuff.

All 3 of the vehicles need stuff done, paying for college and I'd like to take a vacation this summer=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :(
Click to expand...
James, the capillary tube is just flexible 'hard line' which cant be removed. They give the length so you can consider routing (mine are 6' long and barely reach their destination). So you would use that line which comes with the gauge (you cant remove it). (Note, the last AM gauge I bought was an electrical temp gauge, but I dont think the method of how they use capillary tube has changed). by default, AFAIK, mechanical temp gauges have a capillary tube unless otherwise specified.

Now the braided and copper could be used for oil pressure if you choose. I have used even the nylon they come with (on one car, it has been there for over 10 years!) with no issues. But with a nice car or one which has the guage mounted in a pillar or in the dash (mine is under the dash, so who cares. If the line goes, I will have fried huevos, but no biggie. :D ), i would use something stronger. Copper would work well, i think. (You can sleeve it in rubber line if worried about cracks or leakage - I have done this with copper and nylon line before). peace of mind thing.

Good luck bud. You will love the guages!
 
#8
Anyone with experience know if the Autometer full sweep electric gauges are better than the stock gauges or is it just more of the same? Someone local is selling some still brand new, he totalled his car on 395.... tool...
 
#9
I went with the electric for ease of install... I would have to say that they are pretty damn close though... assuming that my thermostat is actually 180*. I drilled and tapped my thermostat housing and put the electric probe in there. Note if you do that its a pipe thread not a standard thread(think its a 3/8ths NPT but don't quote me on it). I was lazy and not want to take my upper off.
Kevin
 
#12
Zero_chance said:
Anyone with experience know if the Autometer full sweep electric gauges are better than the stock gauges or is it just more of the same? Someone local is selling some still brand new, he totalled his car on 395.... tool...
Click to expand...
Are you asking if full sweep Autometers are better than non-full sweep Autometers, or if full sweeps are better than the stock gauges in the car?

ANY aftermarket gauge should be a good ways more accurate than the stockers. Full sweep AM vs Non full sweep AM: I would think the full sweep would be a hair more accurate since the range of reading is greater.

Good luck.
 
#13
I just finished a water temp, and oil pressure gauge install on my 90'. I went with electrical. I just didn't want any possibility of a pressure line or anything rupturing in the car. Stuff tends to rub holes in stuff under dashes. Went with a dual a-pillar Autometer 2 5/8. LOVE IT!!!!!!. Just take the time to do the install right. I hate seeing wires tucked under fuses and stuff. They make neat little jiffy splices now that you can just find the wire you want, and tap right into it. Best of luck....

GTJAMMER
 
#14
thanks everyone. I got a autometer pantom mechanical water temp off ebay. I'm going to get an oil pressure soon and replace the clock with the two. Anyway isn't there a fitting I need to order from summit so I can connect the water gauge? Thanks

Adam
 
#15
The gauge may or may not include the adapter fitting.

For your 95, you can get a water neck with a fitting tapped into it - 10 bucks at DAP or AZ. then relocate the stock sender to the t-stat housing and put your new gauge in the stock sending-unit's location (no dead gauges).

Good luck.
 
#17
cjman15 said:
Can you do that with ours too?
Click to expand...
Yep. The lower intake on the 94 does not have a plug in the driver side rear like the 88 does, so I had to use the t-stat housing. On the 88, i tossed the stock temp gauge sender in the rear port and left the thermostat housing stock.

A note on those housings. the 10 dollar one is butt ugly cast. One should paint it or it gets rusty looking. But it works well. The FRPP ones have reported sealing issues, though they sure look a LOT nicer.

Good luck.
 
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