I Have A 87 302 With Ford Mass Air Conversion,this Question Is Amature But Service Manuals Make Me Angry, I Need To Know How To Ajust The Fuel Ratio , The Car Is Running So Rich After I Drive It I Smell Like Ive Been Ridin A Dirtbike And Its Makin My Bumber Turn Black. Also If I Invest In A Fuel Air Ratio Gauge Is It Goin To Fluctuate Up And Down With The O2 Senser Cycle, Are There Any Gauges That Dont Do That?
Way Too Rich!!!!
- Thread starter GREYFOX4INCH
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if you want to adjust fuel pressure youll need to buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If i were you i would forget the idea of an air/fuel guage unless its the kind that comes with a real wideband type device and although you can buy them seperate from the wideband , i dont think youll want to pay what they usually go for. One of the auto-meter air/fuel guages or similar is nothing more than something to let you know "hey, if you get into this red area,your ****s gonna blow up!" ..........on the other handGREYFOX4INCH said:
, i do happen to have a Ford Motorsport SVO RPM extender for sale, it gets rid of the rev limiter and will adjust the air/fuel ratio and it would be tons cheaper than a wide band .(although i know its not as sophisticated)But still it serves its purpose well. 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Look for codes 41 & 91, which are bad O2 sensors.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Look for codes 41 & 91, which are bad O2 sensors.
You Love Those Codes Huh? Ill Try It And See What I Get, It Seems Like A Pain.a Machanic Dumped Them Last Spring And Got Smog Pump Deleted Code And Somthing Else Unimortant I Think It Was Due To The Ac Deleted He Said He Cant Test Any Further With Accurate Results Unless I Replace The Cats.also
Dose Anyone Know About How Much It Runs To Have A Car Tuned On A Dyno? I Imagine Its Hourly.
When I Accelerate Slowly The Car Seems To Be Skiping Sputtering Or Missing; Or Sumthin, All Spark Plugs Look Good Exept Cyl#2 Its Verry Black, (coated With Carbon Not Oil) Rich Mixture+unburned Fuel I Would Say Im Loosing Spark In #2 But I Gotta Say This Feels Way More Like Im Loosing Fuel At Certain Trottle Pos.bad Injector Or What? Any Input Would Be Helpfull. (besides Codes Im Getting Around To That)
Oh Yeh If I Put It In High Gear Going Slow And Rpms Are Around 1300-2000 And Give It Some Gas It Will Backfire Repeatedly Not That I Do That On A Regular Basis
(exuse My Spelling Im Not As Dumb As My Grammer Insists)
Dose Anyone Know About How Much It Runs To Have A Car Tuned On A Dyno? I Imagine Its Hourly.
When I Accelerate Slowly The Car Seems To Be Skiping Sputtering Or Missing; Or Sumthin, All Spark Plugs Look Good Exept Cyl#2 Its Verry Black, (coated With Carbon Not Oil) Rich Mixture+unburned Fuel I Would Say Im Loosing Spark In #2 But I Gotta Say This Feels Way More Like Im Loosing Fuel At Certain Trottle Pos.bad Injector Or What? Any Input Would Be Helpfull. (besides Codes Im Getting Around To That)
Oh Yeh If I Put It In High Gear Going Slow And Rpms Are Around 1300-2000 And Give It Some Gas It Will Backfire Repeatedly Not That I Do That On A Regular Basis(exuse My Spelling Im Not As Dumb As My Grammer Insists)
GREYFOX4INCH said:I HAVE MSD INGITION BOX WITH (7000 REV LIM KINDA POINTLESS SINCE CAR ONLY PULLS TILL AROUND 5600RPM), BLASTER COIL,BRAND NEW MOTORSPORT WIRES, NEW CAP AND ROTOR.CHANGED PLUGS LAST WEEK, AND REPLACED DITRIBUTOR MODUAL. WHAT COULD CAUSE ONLY 1 CYL TO LOSE SPARK? THANKS ALOT GUYS!!
Did you make the wires yourself with a wire kit? Or did they come pre-made? Could be a loose/faulty plug wire.
Does Anyone Know How The O2 Sensors Work?i Have One After Each Header Of Course.and I Noticed Yesterday,that The Passenger Side Tailpipe Is Spitting Most Of The Rich Mixture.in The Garage Its Was Painting The Cement Black From The Condesation And Carbon,but Not The Driver Side.and As I Mentioned Before I Have 1 Plug That Is Turning Real Black With Carbon,its Located On The Passenger Side. Do The 02 Sensors Control The Mixture Of The Side They Are Located On? Or Dose It Just Combine The Info Into A Overall Fuel Curve?would One Bad 02 Cause The 4 Cylinders On That Side To Run Rich? I Know I Still Have To Pull Codes.(lacking Time, And Paper Large Enough To Right Em All Down Lol) I Think Ill Change Out The Injectors And Dump The Codes If It Dosnt Rain This Sat.(its Been Raining For Like 9 Days Strait And Every Weekend This Month What The @#!!$%!!!!!!!!) What Is A Resonable Price To Pay To Have A Mechanic Pull My Motor , Freshen Up The Bottom End,and Reinstall It?
Can It Be Done Since The Block Is Already .030 Over Will A Hone Cause The Rings To Not Seal?
Can It Be Done Since The Block Is Already .030 Over Will A Hone Cause The Rings To Not Seal?
I Fixed It!!!!!!!!!
I just wanted to post back that i resolved alomost all the issues with my car
incase someone is haveing the same trouble, they can try what i did.
i figgured it would be a good idea to replace the injectors, so i did. i also bought a AFPR while i was at it. when i was removing the upper intake manifold i realized the bolts were barely hand tight
(i did not build the motor )
the moron who sold me the car didn't do anything right. also the injectors were gumed up, cracked and falling apart. the car has never run better since i have owned it. [no more pings,or sputtering] this thing is now a burn out campion.in the past week ive already put to manny cars to shame. its awsum, never felt better. thanks for the ideas and help guys. by the way. i am unsure about fuel pressure.
i searched but found no clear cut answers. i read 38-39 with vac line of and plugged, but the regulator i bought says that factory pressure is 43psi why run lower then stock? am i missinformed? i will be runnin a 100hp -125hp N20 dry shot also, dose this make a diff? any suggestions would help. (i cant spell AT ALL sorry)
I just wanted to post back that i resolved alomost all the issues with my car
incase someone is haveing the same trouble, they can try what i did.
i figgured it would be a good idea to replace the injectors, so i did. i also bought a AFPR while i was at it. when i was removing the upper intake manifold i realized the bolts were barely hand tight
(i did not build the motor )
the moron who sold me the car didn't do anything right. also the injectors were gumed up, cracked and falling apart. the car has never run better since i have owned it. [no more pings,or sputtering] this thing is now a burn out campion.in the past week ive already put to manny cars to shame. its awsum, never felt better. thanks for the ideas and help guys. by the way. i am unsure about fuel pressure.
i searched but found no clear cut answers. i read 38-39 with vac line of and plugged, but the regulator i bought says that factory pressure is 43psi why run lower then stock? am i missinformed? i will be runnin a 100hp -125hp N20 dry shot also, dose this make a diff? any suggestions would help. (i cant spell AT ALL sorry)
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