Welder Question

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I don't know if I'll ever need to weld more than 1/8" steel. The MM FLSC are .083", so 110V would cover it. What else would one commonly weld on a car that required more?

I keep thinking 'the poor man buys twice'.
 
I don't know if I'll ever need to weld more than 1/8" steel. The MM FLSC are .083", so 110V would cover it. What else would one commonly weld on a car that required more?

I keep thinking 'the poor man buys twice'.
You don’t need to buy twice, even the little Everlast 185 I have right now can run off of 110. So will the 210EXT I’m getting. Just look for dual voltage capability.

And really, nothing on our cars would require more than 125 amps. The frame rails are 14 (or was it 12?, still just 7/64ths)gauge, that’s as close as you’ll get.
 
I just spent the day on Friday running a new 20amp circuit in my garage. I was tired of dragging the retractable cord all over, and now I have outlets where I need them for my welder once I pull the trigger. I really think I’ve come full circle and am going to go with the Eastwood Mig 135. I can get the welder for $350 delivered (using the $20 off code) a Harbor Freight cart, and an ok helmet for around $500. I have a bunch of scrap I’ll practice on, and get the feel for the machine with the flux core before I buy a bottle.
@lemosley1973 I too got a quote for FLSC in the area of $500. I’d much rather spend that on a welder, and at some point do it myself, if for no other reason than to be able to say “I did that”.
 
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I"m looking at learning to weld, too. There have been way too many times I wish I had a way to join metal and couldn't. Now I"m looking at FLSC installed and it's going to be 600-800. That money seems like it would be better spent on a welder and scrap metal learning to do it myself and making it possible to do other jobs.

Of course, that also means an electrician to wire in a dedicated 220V outlet.

How do you operate a foot pedal when you are laying under a car?
Who the hell quoted you $600-$800 to weld in sfc’s? That would be well over the highest I’ve ever heard.
 
I’ve been looking at welders for a while. I’m getting more and more leary of the Chinese copies (Eastwood mig 135).
I’ve been looking into this Lincoln and want to know if it will do what I need. Once I’m comfortable, the biggest job would be frame connectors. I also have some floor pan patch to do, and hopefully cleaning up the useless holes in the engine bay.
I started learning welding many many years ago, but haven’t done it in a long time. I’m pretty confident I’ll pick it back up quick.
Will this machine do it for my auto needs.
https://m.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2185-1(LincolnElectric)

Thanks guys!
i have that same machine. hard pass. i'd look closer at some of the new harbor freight stuff or used inverter-based miller/hobart/lincoln. dual-voltage would be a plus but not strictly necessary.
 
Pro-dyno gave an estimate of hours - he said something like 4-6 hours and I think the rate was $125/hr. It might have been $100/hr in which case it was 4-600.
The process is like this for the typical set of weld in connectors..
( and I'll be overly liberal with that)
Remove/ replace the two front seats, kick panels, and door rocker trim. Lift and prop carpeting from frontal floor. 1hr.
Raise vehicle, Prep the weld surfaces, test fit connector...fit in place for welding. 1hr
Weld. .5 hr
2.5 hours total for the slowest, most methodical non-thief fabricators,..you might want to ask why your rip-off shop thinks it will take twice as long, or longer to do yours.
 
You don’t need to buy twice, even the little Everlast 185 I have right now can run off of 110. So will the 210EXT I’m getting. Just look for dual voltage capability.

And really, nothing on our cars would require more than 125 amps. The frame rails are 14 (or was it 12?, still just 7/64ths)gauge, that’s as close as you’ll get.
Meh, a welder will last a dozen years...you never know what you're gonna end up doing with one...

Roll cage bar wall thickness is usually .130, those plates that most SF connectors have is .125, and any bracket you have to modify to hold an accessory could be twice that.
A welder is a machine that I'd recommend that you over buy its capabilities IMO.
 
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I have no idea if it's a ripoff - I don't usually take my cars anyplace to have work done. You're reinforcing that decision is correct.
The rip off comment is from me. You said they were charging 4-800 depending on their hourly rate, and I figured their time quote to be almost a 1/3rd of what they stated.
You can call them what you will.

If you are capable, you're gonna be able to do this yourself. By capable, I mean if you have the patience to practice, the skill set to adapt slightly, and the physicality required to do it that is. Youll be laying on your side, under a car that is more than two feet in the air, having to hold both hands on the gun to steady it, leaving no hand to prop yourself up at the awkward angle you'll be at. Welding at an up angle on "previously" greasy, dirty, galvanized metal. It's not the easiest first job you'll ever weld.
 
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Pro-dyno gave an estimate of hours - he said something like 4-6 hours and I think the rate was $125/hr. It might have been $100/hr in which case it was 4-600.

Take it to an actual welding and fabrication shop. If they charge you more than an hr and a half something is wrong.
 
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So, employee pricing hit today on Eastwood so I finally pulled the trigger. $337 to the door. Hopefully I’ll be happy with it for a while! Let the practicing begin!
 
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Welder is here! I thought it came with flux core wire, but it came with a roll of solid mig. My plan was to practice with flux core, but since it came with MIG wire, I may just get a bottle of gas and go from there. There’s an Airgas store about 5 minutes from me, so why not!
C5EEEEDD-BABA-45BA-B7DF-D36BA08011E8.jpeg
2FF616E9-98CC-4D6F-B4A5-B14B775ACD41.jpeg
 
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Looking on Craig's list - found a Miller Thunderbolt stick welder:

It's ac and dc capable up to 225 amps. Just not sure if it's a 220V only, or 110 and 220V.

I'm trying to find out the exact model - I think it's from 1997 or so - thoughts on going the stick welding router to learn with? I don't get discouraged easily.

If I can become proficient at it, then TIG is just a step away.
 
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Looking on Craig's list - found a Miller Thunderbolt stick welder:

It's ac and dc capabile up to 225 amps. Just not sure if it's a 220V only, or 110 and 220V.

I'm trying to find out the exact model - I think it's from 1997 or so - thoughts on going the stick welding router to learn with? I don't get discouraged easily.

If I can become proficient at it, then TIG is just a step away.
I think a stick welder is a pointless thing in an automotive fab shop. Difficult to use, and only good for thick metals.
A Mig is stupid proof. And as many examples that have been furnished here will testify, can be purchased brand new for the price of the 10 year old used Miller. As long as you don't mind a Chinee piece.

TIG welding is an art. It takes several hours to become barely capable, and several hours more to become proficient. Even longer to make the kind if beautiful consistent welds you see pics of. Mig welding requires a little practice to get things right, and a steady hand. I'd dare say that I could show you how to weld decent in an hour of practice going from 1/4" plate to .20 ga steel with a mig and still have a beautiful weld.
92479DD5-0F4B-4E88-BAF3-4A8417407101_zpspga6evwi.jpg

This is a triggered " pulse" weld using a mig. You can see the tiny little pinhole in the middle of each bead. I pulled the trigger Everytime you see the dime.
 
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Thanks, Mike. Is that from the Cyclone? I'm only on page 44, so if you re-renamed since that point, I haven't reached it.

Guy hasn't responded with the model, anyway. Must not be too interested in selling, or too busy.
 
Thanks, Mike. Is that from the Cyclone? I'm only on page 44, so if you re-renamed since that point, I haven't reached it.

Guy hasn't responded with the model, anyway. Must not be too interested in selling, or too busy.
It is.
It's the bend that used to be attached to the center exit rear exhaust. ( you can see it laying on the ground)