Most tigs come with a finger trigger for such a reason. Although a foot pedal works much better, as you can vary the current..you'll have a tough time trying to figure out how you're gonna do that.
You don’t need to buy twice, even the little Everlast 185 I have right now can run off of 110. So will the 210EXT I’m getting. Just look for dual voltage capability.I don't know if I'll ever need to weld more than 1/8" steel. The MM FLSC are .083", so 110V would cover it. What else would one commonly weld on a car that required more?
I keep thinking 'the poor man buys twice'.
Who the hell quoted you $600-$800 to weld in sfc’s? That would be well over the highest I’ve ever heard.I"m looking at learning to weld, too. There have been way too many times I wish I had a way to join metal and couldn't. Now I"m looking at FLSC installed and it's going to be 600-800. That money seems like it would be better spent on a welder and scrap metal learning to do it myself and making it possible to do other jobs.
Of course, that also means an electrician to wire in a dedicated 220V outlet.
How do you operate a foot pedal when you are laying under a car?
i have that same machine. hard pass. i'd look closer at some of the new harbor freight stuff or used inverter-based miller/hobart/lincoln. dual-voltage would be a plus but not strictly necessary.I’ve been looking at welders for a while. I’m getting more and more leary of the Chinese copies (Eastwood mig 135).
I’ve been looking into this Lincoln and want to know if it will do what I need. Once I’m comfortable, the biggest job would be frame connectors. I also have some floor pan patch to do, and hopefully cleaning up the useless holes in the engine bay.
I started learning welding many many years ago, but haven’t done it in a long time. I’m pretty confident I’ll pick it back up quick.
Will this machine do it for my auto needs.
https://m.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K2185-1(LincolnElectric)
Thanks guys!
Who the hell quoted you $600-$800 to weld in sfc’s? That would be well over the highest I’ve ever heard.
The process is like this for the typical set of weld in connectors..Pro-dyno gave an estimate of hours - he said something like 4-6 hours and I think the rate was $125/hr. It might have been $100/hr in which case it was 4-600.
Meh, a welder will last a dozen years...you never know what you're gonna end up doing with one...You don’t need to buy twice, even the little Everlast 185 I have right now can run off of 110. So will the 210EXT I’m getting. Just look for dual voltage capability.
And really, nothing on our cars would require more than 125 amps. The frame rails are 14 (or was it 12?, still just 7/64ths)gauge, that’s as close as you’ll get.
The rip off comment is from me. You said they were charging 4-800 depending on their hourly rate, and I figured their time quote to be almost a 1/3rd of what they stated.I have no idea if it's a ripoff - I don't usually take my cars anyplace to have work done. You're reinforcing that decision is correct.
Pro-dyno gave an estimate of hours - he said something like 4-6 hours and I think the rate was $125/hr. It might have been $100/hr in which case it was 4-600.
I think a stick welder is a pointless thing in an automotive fab shop. Difficult to use, and only good for thick metals.Looking on Craig's list - found a Miller Thunderbolt stick welder:
Miller thunderbolt ac/dc welder
Miller thunderbolt ac/dc welder exelentbworling condition.charlotte.craigslist.org
It's ac and dc capabile up to 225 amps. Just not sure if it's a 220V only, or 110 and 220V.
I'm trying to find out the exact model - I think it's from 1997 or so - thoughts on going the stick welding router to learn with? I don't get discouraged easily.
If I can become proficient at it, then TIG is just a step away.
It is.Thanks, Mike. Is that from the Cyclone? I'm only on page 44, so if you re-renamed since that point, I haven't reached it.
Guy hasn't responded with the model, anyway. Must not be too interested in selling, or too busy.