welder suggestions...

[hungrymonkey]

any input on the hobart handler 140?

I know its only 110. But that is all I have to hook it up to at this point. It comes with a stand and everything for gas at $545 with free shipping.

I will be primarily using it on sheetmetal. But might go as far as doing some frame work in the future.

what do you all think?

 

[LUCAFU1]

do it

 

[enferno]

well if you have it in your budget, i can't reccomend enough that you get a miller.


their millermatic 135 is 110 volt, and has a regulator should you choose to get gas, but works just as well with flux-core wire.


it's infinitly variable in terms of amperage and feeding speed.


it's just the best there is

welder, wire, extra tips, and a different nozzle cost me $750 out the door

 

[LUCAFU1]

i agree miller is the best of them all. i have a miller and i love it. hobart is a miller but just a cheaper version. they are good welders but miller is like the cobra while hobarts is just a mustang =P

cyberweld.com has the best prices anywhere on miller and hobart. free shipping to so you cant beat that. i also got my miller plasma cutter from them.

 

[bigcat]

i agree miller is the best of them all. i have a miller and i love it. hobart is a miller but just a cheaper version. they are good welders but miller is like the cobra while hobarts is just a mustang =P

i agree. hobart is made by miller. if its not used everyday, stick with the hobart. might as well save the cash. it will perform the same as the miller.

cyberweld.com has the best prices anywhere on miller and hobart. free shipping to so you cant beat that. i also got my miller plasma cutter from them.

you have a plasma cutter for home?

 

[LUCAFU1]

i agree. hobart is made by miller. if its not used everyday, stick with the hobart. might as well save the cash. it will perform the same as the miller.



you have a plasma cutter for home?

yep i was even told by miller that all they due is use some better internal parts and they are made from metal instead of plastic. i forgot what else but they are both good.
yeah i decided to get a plasma cutter to help me cut up my mustang to get the heidts in, mini tub, and other fun stuff. ive always liked using a torch and even think its alot more fun to torch metal then using a plasma but i love my plasma cutter. best part is no heat up. i recommend it

i used to cut up old army trucks and then rebuild/we/d armor panels to protect troops from IEDs. i used a torch for everything and when we got the plasma cutter it cut down the time of work in half, plus no gas to buy

 

[danny clemens]

I've got a 110 Lincoln with gas and love it. I don't think you could go wrong with any of them though. I think gas is a big plus over the flux core.

 

[bigcat]

flux core has its place. it is better suited for outdoor or drafty locations. the solid core with gas is easier to master, IMO. flux core takes some time and practice to get good results. plus you dont have to get a tank for the gas, or running out of gas when you need it most.

with that said, i persoanally would still choose the solid core wire with gas, especially for automotive use.

 

[LUCAFU1]

yeah running out of gas does suck. thats why i had to get a smaller tank that i also use for traveling purposes. any welder will due but IMO i like miller, hobart, lincoln. just get anyone it will be perfect.

 

[Stanger'66]

That is a very nice machine, good choice. A Hobart IS a Miller with a different colored case and a plastic drive roller instead of aluminum. All other drive rollers are plastic anyway so I really don't see the problem. The Miller also has what is called a reo-stat controlled voltage allowing an unlimited range within the welder's capabilities of course. I must admit that I have not used this feature but I also do not understand it. Has anyone ever had a problem dialing in their welder with the wire feed and voltage? Not if they know what they're doing. The welder setting actually overlap, amperage wise, with the 4 voltage taps and unlimited wire speed. Find the correct voltage tap and then tune it in with the wire speed, more for more heat, less to cool it down. It's that simple. No need to spend $200 more for the same machine. The only thing that I can see that could save you money is buying off e-bay. You can get the 135 Miller with the aluminum drive roller and reo-stat voltage control for $585 w/free shipping. This is already a better deal than that Hobart you are looking at. You could also get a reconditioned "A" grade 140 Hobart for $400 shipped. The "A" grade models, from what I can tell, are just returned items that haven't even been used. These shouldn't even be scratched. You could save alot of money this way but I can see why you might want new. These are just a few options. Nice choice on the welder though. It seems like all the newbies to welding want to buy from Harbor Freightand those MIGs are junk. Hobart, Miller, Esab, and Lincoln are the best made. Good luck with whichever you choose!

 

[hungrymonkey]

cberweld has the millermatic for 600. tempting.

If I do a tub and air bags on my truck, will either the hobart or miller that was mentioned be able to safely weld the frame? The miller says its only up to 3/16. Or am I reading this wrong?

 

[xoxbxfx]

cberweld has the millermatic for 600. tempting.

If I do a tub and air bags on my truck, will either the hobart or miller that was mentioned be able to safely weld the frame? The miller says its only up to 3/16. Or am I reading this wrong?

Man..this is the big debate...if a 110 will cut it or not. I would say yes. I dont think you will EVER weld anything on a light duty truck or car that would need 1/4" steel or more.

I would also suggest the Miller for just a bit more cash...this is a buy it once thing...not over and again.

 

[RogerC62]

I bought a Hobart 140 back in March. I've used it to repair the floors in my son's Jeep and repair the driver's seat frame. It works great. I plan to use it when I start welding the frame up on my stang. I bought mine locally at a supplier's store. The sales guy tried to sell me the Miller but being an experienced welder, I can do fine with the Hobart.

 

[NasaGT]

Miller, Hobart, Lincoln. You can't go wrong with any of these. I've got a Lincoln 135 with gas - I use the flux-core wire for the thick stuff, and gas for sheet metal work. Haven't had any problems at all.

 

[danny clemens]

cberweld has the millermatic for 600. tempting.

If I do a tub and air bags on my truck, will either the hobart or miller that was mentioned be able to safely weld the frame? The miller says its only up to 3/16. Or am I reading this wrong?

My 110 Lincoln says the same thing. If I were going to weld anything heavier I would make more than one pass. If I were to weld anything heavier that is safety related I would buy a heavier welder that was rated for more amps.

 

[coupe5.0]

We have a hobart at work that has had LOTS of spools of wire run through it, no problems.

 

[Jester67]

I have the Hobart 180 it is an upgraded version of the 175 and according to both Hobart and Miller when I called. The only real difference is the rheostat verses the 4-position setting. The transformer and contactor are the same mine came with a miller gun and has aluminum drive rollers. I for one do not believe you will need any thing bigger than a 135-amp welder for our cars but since I got the welder, I have done more than I ever imagined I would with it.

 

[Red5oh]

I had a Millermatic 170 (220V version) and had to sell it. I got one called a Marquette off of Lane on this board and it is suprisingly capable. The think I like about it over the miller/hobart is that has 12 heat settings and infinate wire speed. When doing sheetmetal, I have to normally set it at 3 or 4 because the lowest setting will not do it. It has gas and that is all I use. Do a search and they have been making welders for as long as miller. The price was extremely right, and I do not regret the purchase.

 

[1320stang]

My buddy and I went in on a Miller 130 years ago and he has a Ramcharger 360/727 4x4 that he cut the front end off under the seats. He bought a D250 4x4 with a Cummins and a 5-speed and cut it in the same place, he then swapped front clips and fishplated the frame rails in addition to adding four 3/4" bolts to each side. He also swapped the rear spring hangers and put the 3/4 ton rear end in his Ramcharger as well, so he now has a 3/4 ton, Cummins powered Ramcharger. He said the D250 frame rails were 0.100" thicker, but were the same shape. Hasn't had a failure yet, but he doesn't rock climb or do the whole stadium truck thing either.

I like the infinite tuning of the Miller and it's not much more $$ than the Hobart.

 

[Stanger'66]

These are the two best deals on the internet in my opinion. If I get a new welder it will be one of these two...
New Miller 135 for $584 shipped
Reconditioned Hobart 140 for $401 shipped

The 180 is also a good deal. I have done a lot of searching and these seem to be the best. I have talked to many people about Miller welders and half say they won't even carry them because they can't compete with ebay. Can't beat these welders at these prices.

EDIT: If you decide that you need to weld some thicker metal with the 140, I wouldn't hesitate. I would just bevel the edge if it was 1/4" and crank her up! It can handle it.