welder suggestions...

[67 GTA]

Hobart is a generic Miller. There really is not enough difference to justify the price difference. You are paying for the name when you buy a Miller. I have welded and fabricated for 15 years and have used them all. I currently own the Hobart 140 to do projects at home. It will weld just about anything you will need. I would go with the gas option because of the clean up factor. It will not leave as much splatter and you will have a better looking weld than you would with the flux cored wire. Flux core is basically stick welding in wire form. I bought mine at Tractor Supply for $500 (bottle included). I already had the cart. Sounds like a pretty good deal.

 

[hungrymonkey]

hmm. I was about sold on the miller, but for the level of welding I will be doing. I doubt I will reap any of the benifits from it.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Which ever you choose, just make sure you have access to the right amperage. Your basic household outlet is 15 Amp and many 110 welders (such as the Miller 135 linked to above) require 20 Amp.

 

[Stanger'66]

I have been using a Snap-On 110 amp welder for the last few days and it has the reostat voltage control. I must admit that it is nice to have although you can tune the other welders in with the wire feed and correct voltage tap. With this setup you don't have to know the welder that well. You can just be "close" but still get a good weld whereas you have to tune the wire feed on the tap type welders fairly precisely. With that said, you can get an equally good weld from either machine but the reostat is easier. I think I might get that Miller when the time comes...

 

[Platonic Solid]

I have been using a Snap-On 110 amp welder ...

I'm sure you mean 110 Volt

 

[Stanger'66]

I'm sure you mean 110 Volt

Easily misunderstood, but no, I meant 110 amp. It has a 90 amp and 110 amp switch for thicker material. When the original poster was asking about a Hobart 140, that was a 140 amp welder, see? Maybe 110 just got you confused but all these numbers we have been throwing around have been in reference to the amperage. Obviously, more amperage = more power.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Easily misunderstood, but no, I meant 110 amp. It has a 90 amp and 110 amp switch for thicker material. When the original poster was asking about a Hobart 140, that was a 140 amp welder, see? Maybe 110 just got you confused but all these numbers we have been throwing around have been in reference to the amperage. Obviously, more amperage = more power.

Ah yes, I was thinking input (house current) and you were talking output (welding current).

 

[stangonline]

How do I determine the AMP rating of my electric supply?

I've always wanted to weld aluminum too - if I were to invest in a TIG - would it also be just as capable welding sheetmetal and such?

 

[danny clemens]

How do I determine the AMP rating of my electric supply?

If you want to find the rating of one individual circuit just look at the breaker that turns that circuit off. It will have 15, 20 or some other number on it to show how many amps the circuit is. If you want to find out what your total circuit rating is look at the main breaker in your box and it will say what the total rating is. If you have extra positions in your box you can run your own circuits with the amp ratings that you want.

Danny