Went to the dyno with the new combo.

[Wi Stang]

Well I finally got to the dyno with my new upgrades. (TW heads, stage 1 cam, intake, Vortech) With the TwEECer I was able to get a/f to about 12 to 1 for the most part. It drops to about 11.5 to 1 at higher rpms. I still have the stock ignition on it, and it appears I was blowing out the spark at high RPM. It would stutter, and the power would drop off a little around 5,000 rpm. So I ordered an MSD 6AL, and coil to hopefully clear that up. Since I was having issues with the spark I didn't play with the timing at all. I had the boost timing retard module set to pull 3*timing per lb of boost. I made 10lb of boost on the motor, so I should have ended up pulling 30* of timing at full boost.
Once I get the MSD box in I am going to head back to the dyno and play with the timing. Where is a good place to start with timing. Should I start adding base timing first, or should I try turning the BTM to a lower setting? this is the first time I have ever been to the dyno, so any tips are appreciated.
Oh yeah I almost forgot to put in the numbers. It made 337 hp, and 343 lb of tq. I am hoping to get more when I play with the timing.

 

[ef200098]

i wouldn't think you would need to pull that much timing. set the btm at 1 or 1.5 and listen for detonation. once you get your timing worked out i think you have another 75 hp in there. you should be making about 400 or so at the wheels. but definately turn that btm down a little

 

[a50sn95]

Hmm. I use my Tweecer to SET my timing. I ditched the BTM and FMU as soon as I understood how to use my Tweecer.
Right now I have 17 Degrees of total timing programmed (90% load), but I'm breaking in a new motor.
I would expect to be able to get to 22-23 total when I'm ready.
Also, I use the stock ignition, just an MSD coil. Seems to work fine.
I'm not sold on the MSD, and from what I've read, it only gives Multiple sparks up to 3000 RPM. After that, I'm not sure what it does for me. Perhaps someone can shed some light. The coil makes the extra spark, so.....
I set the RPM limit in the Tweecer. Some people are afraid to do this as they believe that it will lean out the motor at the limit....

 

[Wi Stang]

I am getting a little better at using the tweecer, but I am not quite there yet. I did gain a lot of confidence in it when I was getting the a/f ratio dialed in. I guess before I go to the dyno again, I'll have to figure out how to set the timing with it.
I'm anxious to get the new parts, and get back to the dyno.

 

[blksn955.o]

As far as the spark blow out, what do you have the plugs gapd' at? I know on n2o cars the gap should be a bit closer at around 35. I would think the sim. idea would be good on a boosted car as well?

At least your starting off small and safe.

 

[Wi Stang]

I have the autolite plugs that are 2 heat ranges colder than stock, and they are gapped at .035

Don't know if it is a stupid question or not, but does changing the timing change the a/f ratio at all? I am thinking that I should be able to add a little timing, and listen to make sure I don't get any detonation. Or should I wait to change the timing until I get back on the dyno?

 

[blksn955.o]

you can change the timing and not change the A/F, they are controled by 2 diff kinds of tables.

If your MAF transfer and inj. slopes ect. are set and good. Work in the table of Fuel_stabalized_OL in the 1 row of the table go with like a 11.8-12.2ish area for starters. If your MAF transfer is off or inj. slopes are off your commanded A/F will more than likely be squed a bit.

For spark control you will have to set the MBT and boarderline table to 55's and match the alt. and base table. I would do some searching on boosted guys combos before changing anything as I am a N/A / bottle guy so the timing demands/fuel demands are prob. going to be alittel diff. at diff. areas.

But stay rich while going higher with timing then back off timing alittle when leaning out the fuel.