Gun carry law all 50 States.
http://www.handgunlaw.us/documents/USRVCarCarry.pdf
States Permitted, Denied or May Issue.
Handgunlaw.us
Back to the car.
Not much going on in the next few days for me on the car. Rog may be Hans Solo on a few projects. Still have the exhaust to finish, steering shaft to be done, sway bar install, cutting of springs, Vortech prep install, liquids-oil and coolant, prime the oil pump, finish wiring if any left, throttle cable install, install battery, MAF.
http://www.handgunlaw.us/documents/USRVCarCarry.pdf
States Permitted, Denied or May Issue.
Handgunlaw.us
Back to the car.
Not much going on in the next few days for me on the car. Rog may be Hans Solo on a few projects. Still have the exhaust to finish, steering shaft to be done, sway bar install, cutting of springs, Vortech prep install, liquids-oil and coolant, prime the oil pump, finish wiring if any left, throttle cable install, install battery, MAF.
Well, from the link Joe posted, its basically a one step rule for pistols and no need for anything special for rifles.
Yeah, its riding high in the front. We will fix that though. As far as starting it, it will be done with the blower installed since I'm starting the install tomorrow while Joe is working. We will be starting her this weekend assuming all goes well.....Wish us luck.
Are they new springs? As in have they had a chance to settle?
Also if I have the front sway bar/end links off my front seems about 1/2-3/4 inches higher. One time in the garage I stepped back when one side of the swaybar was attached and the other loose and it looked like I was parked on a hill. Its still not enough to make up the gap you seem to have but if the springs are new/not settled and the sway bar is off/not connected it could add up to what you have.
Before I traded my pro-stars if I had all 4 on and not just the rears, my rears would rub bad because the car sat differently. With the TTII's there was little to no rub.
Also if I have the front sway bar/end links off my front seems about 1/2-3/4 inches higher. One time in the garage I stepped back when one side of the swaybar was attached and the other loose and it looked like I was parked on a hill. Its still not enough to make up the gap you seem to have but if the springs are new/not settled and the sway bar is off/not connected it could add up to what you have.
Before I traded my pro-stars if I had all 4 on and not just the rears, my rears would rub bad because the car sat differently. With the TTII's there was little to no rub.
It sat high in the front anyway if you go back to page 1 pictures. The front tires had zero tread too. The sway bar not connect does seem to make it higher.
I don't mind working on anything. We had dozens of projects going while doing the motor which is the reason we're over a month right now.
I'm at work today and Rog will be at the house working on a few projects. Hope to be running when I get home (haha).
I don't mind working on anything. We had dozens of projects going while doing the motor which is the reason we're over a month right now.
I'm at work today and Rog will be at the house working on a few projects. Hope to be running when I get home (haha).
Rog is sending me Vortech install pics as he's goes along.
Before
Moved the Alternator and Smog out of the way.
New Vortech Brackets go on.
Head unit, induction tube all on. Tensioner, MAF, Radiator hose next up.
View attachment 185057
Before
Moved the Alternator and Smog out of the way.
New Vortech Brackets go on.
Head unit, induction tube all on. Tensioner, MAF, Radiator hose next up.
View attachment 185057
We are having issues with the stock belt, it doesn't fit.
Here is what's needed to get the car to fire:
1. Belt is too small so we need to get that straight.
2. X-Pipe still not connected to the headers.
3. Steering shaft, Rog wanted to change it for a flaming river but the stocker won't budge.
4. Need to stall power pipe, fuel lines in the way need to get that straight.
5. The stock tensioner needs to get notch so it will fit on the Vortech bracket.
6. Need to install Auto Meter Boost Gauge.
7. Add fluids-Oil and coolant.
8. Loose ends, few connectors and vacuum lines need to be run.
9. Clutch engages a few inches off the floor. UPR quadrant and adjuster on the way.
We are still undecided about suspension. Let's hear your input.
Do we go UPR Chrome Moly Control Arms Upper / Lower with subframes and Caster / Camber plates?
Do we go Steeda with all this?
Do we go Maximum Motorsports with all this?
Here is what's needed to get the car to fire:
1. Belt is too small so we need to get that straight.
2. X-Pipe still not connected to the headers.
3. Steering shaft, Rog wanted to change it for a flaming river but the stocker won't budge.
4. Need to stall power pipe, fuel lines in the way need to get that straight.
5. The stock tensioner needs to get notch so it will fit on the Vortech bracket.
6. Need to install Auto Meter Boost Gauge.
7. Add fluids-Oil and coolant.
8. Loose ends, few connectors and vacuum lines need to be run.
9. Clutch engages a few inches off the floor. UPR quadrant and adjuster on the way.
We are still undecided about suspension. Let's hear your input.
Do we go UPR Chrome Moly Control Arms Upper / Lower with subframes and Caster / Camber plates?
Do we go Steeda with all this?
Do we go Maximum Motorsports with all this?
I decided to go with bullitt springs and shocks/struts. UPR rear U/L arms, 03 cobra front A-arms, and full length sub frames.
1. Cheap setup
2. lowered the car 1/5-3/4
3. Easy to get replacement parts for
4. Seems to be a decent road handling setup and with a dis-connect of the sway able to get some good 60's.
But this is coming from a guy who traded his Pro-stars for a AK47 since the local track closed
1. Cheap setup
2. lowered the car 1/5-3/4
3. Easy to get replacement parts for
4. Seems to be a decent road handling setup and with a dis-connect of the sway able to get some good 60's.
But this is coming from a guy who traded his Pro-stars for a AK47 since the local track closed
Well, I'm 100% confident that the car will never see any road racing events. At most it will be the occasional trip the the track to run the 1/4. However, the car will be street driven and handling around the curves is very important as far is I'm concerned so finding a good balance between street/strip will suit us perfect. I was thinking Maximum Motorsports but Steeda being located right down the street makes it hard to pass up. UPR is right down the street too, but I have read several articles that were against using chromoly on car parts, plus although UPR may have good products, I feel like I am buying the bargain brand for a project that I don't want to cut any corners on. All opinions are welcomed openly since we are getting ready to start buying suspension components.
Having an entire Steeda Stage III suspension on my 94GT I'm pretty spoiled when it comes to handling. My car handled extremely well. The only non-Steeda suspension item on the 94 were the springs. The only reason I went with FRPP is because I didn't want the slammed look and it's the only thing Steeda springs offered (by Eibach). I will also say during a 1/4 mile run one night my passenger side lower control arm broke at the welds and the rear collapsed at over 100mph, flat spotted the tire and spent over $200 on a tow home. I called Steeda and they couldn't believe it. I had the car towed to them and sure enough they were blown by what they found. That control arm was only tac welded and somehow made it through quality control checks. They took it all apart and installed a new one plus repaid me back for all the towing. Luckily I didn't get hurt or wreck the car.
UPR suspension had been on the radar because of chrome moly and affordable prices (many UPR dealers on Stangnet offering great deals). Rog is leaning toward Maximum (best) and me towards Steeda (good). Car isn't finished under the hood so we have time.
Keep the suspension suggestions coming. I think FRPP springs will be better for this car since just the front needs to come down. It has Monroe struts and shocks on it currently so they at least aren't the 20 year old stockers. Question is how old are these Monroe's? The only suspension mod so far is a complete front sway bar endlinks by Energy (not a fun install to say the least either).
UPR suspension had been on the radar because of chrome moly and affordable prices (many UPR dealers on Stangnet offering great deals). Rog is leaning toward Maximum (best) and me towards Steeda (good). Car isn't finished under the hood so we have time.
Keep the suspension suggestions coming. I think FRPP springs will be better for this car since just the front needs to come down. It has Monroe struts and shocks on it currently so they at least aren't the 20 year old stockers. Question is how old are these Monroe's? The only suspension mod so far is a complete front sway bar endlinks by Energy (not a fun install to say the least either).
Totally agree. I don't like to bad mouth anyone but have seen too many fails.
Sounds like if you had any problems with Steeda,it would just be a trip down the road to get resolved. I'm waiting till Sept. 1 when Maximum will start their Deal of the day to finish buying my parts for the 94 project.