what all is needed for better handling / less body roll?

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

curious what all i would need to have a better handling car in the twisties. i know alot of money can be spent on suspension and such. i dont want to auto-x or anything that extreme, just stiffen up the car a little more around the corners without spending a ton of dough.

here is what i have so far:

Eibach sportlines
Energy suspension spring isolators
UPR 3 bolt steel "shark" C/C plates
04 GT take-off shocks/struts
Tubular weld-in subframes
17x9 wheels
255/45/17s & 275/40/17s

what else would make a difference? control arms, sway bar, poly bushings, .......?

thanks in advance :SNSign:

86bluecobra · Mar 14, 2007

Sway Bars are going to makes the biggest difference since they link both side of the suspension together.

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

86bluecobra said:
Sway Bars are going to makes the biggest difference since they link both side of the suspension together.

reasonably priced and not too bad to install?

86bluecobra · Mar 14, 2007

sway bars are easy to install no worries there as for the price i'm not 2 sure. steeda or saleen would be the ones i would go with.

1TallMF · Mar 14, 2007

I've heard that the stock rear swaybars are just barely adequate on our cars. The previous owner of my car installed front and rear "cobra" sways bar on it, the size difference of which I am unsure and skeptical of. I couldn't tell you how the before/after difference is, but an upgrade of at least the rear bar is easy to do and not too expensive and should improve body roll noticably.

If your rear control arms are still stock, you might want to consider swapping those out for something better. Lowers can be had for not too much green, and all you really need to do to the uppers is get factory replacement bushings. I have the parts to do mine but haven't gotten around to it yet. The rear axle on my car feel loose and unpredictable in the twisties. I can't wait to feel the difference the MM pieces are going to make

95opal · Mar 14, 2007

I think I have went through as many stock rear sways as i have owened mustang. Bought the steeda front and rear and never had a problem since. The stockers compared to the Steedas is a joke.

Car Nut · Mar 14, 2007

1TallMF said:
If your rear control arms are still stock, you might want to consider swapping those out for something better. Lowers can be had for not too much green, and all you really need to do to the uppers is get factory replacement bushings. I have the parts to do mine but haven't gotten around to it yet. The rear axle on my car feel loose and unpredictable in the twisties. I can't wait to feel the difference the MM pieces are going to make

I literally just had my rear upper and lower control arms installed (see sig below) and I can't believe I didn't do this years ago. My rear control arms were all worn out to a degree that is shameful. I drove around a good bit today and noticed that all the usual bumps are now soaked up and aren't noticeable........the car just stays planted and tracks perfectly. Very noticeable was the noises that have now disappeared. I am looking very forward to next weeks 1,000+ mile trip.

Other than my recent revelation with control arms, I would suggest the MM K-member brace and the 03 Cobra front A arms by FRPP. Bushings are always good around the swaybars and new endlinks too.

At some point, your springs will be the limiting factor because the spring rate is on the low side. But like you said, you don't want to spend big $$$ and do autoX, so do one or two things at a time and see what you like and when you've reached your goal.

BlooDReigN · Mar 14, 2007

shocks, struts, lower control arms and maybe a rear sway bar would help if you don't wanna go too crazy. Don't put a stiffer front sway bar on your car. The factory one is FAR too big, and combined with the ****ty rear one is why 5.0's under steer so bad.

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

86bluecobra said:
sway bars are easy to install no worries there as for the price i'm not 2 sure. steeda or saleen would be the ones i would go with.

easy is good

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

1TallMF said:
I've heard that the stock rear swaybars are just barely adequate on our cars. The previous owner of my car installed front and rear "cobra" sways bar on it, the size difference of which I am unsure and skeptical of. I couldn't tell you how the before/after difference is, but an upgrade of at least the rear bar is easy to do and not too expensive and should improve body roll noticably.

If your rear control arms are still stock, you might want to consider swapping those out for something better. Lowers can be had for not too much green, and all you really need to do to the uppers is get factory replacement bushings. I have the parts to do mine but haven't gotten around to it yet. The rear axle on my car feel loose and unpredictable in the twisties. I can't wait to feel the difference the MM pieces are going to make

so i can get away with just lowers and replace bushings on the factory uppers?

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

95opal said:
I think I have went through as many stock rear sways as i have owened mustang. Bought the steeda front and rear and never had a problem since. The stockers compared to the Steedas is a joke.

if there is that big of a difference, sounds like i def need to check into sway bars.

how much and where did you get your steedas?

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

Car Nut said:
I literally just had my rear upper and lower control arms installed (see sig below) and I can't believe I didn't do this years ago. My rear control arms were all worn out to a degree that is shameful. I drove around a good bit today and noticed that all the usual bumps are now soaked up and aren't noticeable........the car just stays planted and tracks perfectly. Very noticeable was the noises that have now disappeared. I am looking very forward to next weeks 1,000+ mile trip.

Other than my recent revelation with control arms, I would suggest the MM K-member brace and the 03 Cobra front A arms by FRPP. Bushings are always good around the swaybars and new endlinks too.

At some point, your springs will be the limiting factor because the spring rate is on the low side. But like you said, you don't want to spend big $$$ and do autoX, so do one or two things at a time and see what you like and when you've reached your goal.

you are right, better shocks and struts would be much better than what i have. but as you quoted me, dont want to spend alot of $$$. the take-offs were GREAT compared to my worn out 105k ones. in the distant future, some better quality/higher performance shocks and struts will be had.

from what you say, control arms made a world of difference

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

BlooDReigN said:
shocks, struts, lower control arms and maybe a rear sway bar would help if you don't wanna go too crazy. Don't put a stiffer front sway bar on your car. The factory one is FAR too big, and combined with the ****ty rear one is why 5.0's under steer so bad.

understeer

Car Nut · Mar 14, 2007

fiveoho said:
you are right, better shocks and struts would be much better than what i have. but as you quoted me, dont want to spend alot of $$$. the take-offs were GREAT compared to my worn out 105k ones. in the distant future, some better quality/higher performance shocks and struts will be had.

from what you say, control arms made a world of difference

Dude, I just can't tell you how excited I am about all the rear control arms.......definitely a world of difference. I'd never done anything to mine, so they were bone stock and worn beyond belief and noisy. Get a good quality set of lower arms, but I wouldn't get radical on the uppers. Just get FRPP upper bushings that go in the diff and even a new FRPP UCLA is like $70, maybe less.

I've heard that HP shocks/struts are really good and they aren't expensive at all. KYB seems to be a popular choice, especially for the street.

Just take your time and do a couple things at a time and you'll figure out what you "need" without buying stuff twice.

Good luck!

carnutz · Mar 14, 2007

I have a 94 gt with high rate non-progressive springs and tokme I cant spell it shocks and struts.

Corners great drives like a racecar no wheal hop. But it drives like a racecar you feel ever little bump and pebble on the road I would go with the progressive rate springs might help on bumpy roads. But even with the rough ride can’t say enough about the handling you can hit really sharp corners at 60+ tap the breaks load up the front wheals and hit the gas in 3rd full throttle half way though and no role just very high Gs almost 1 sideways.

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

Car Nut said:
Dude, I just can't tell you how excited I am about all the rear control arms.......definitely a world of difference. I'd never done anything to mine, so they were bone stock and worn beyond belief and noisy. Get a good quality set of lower arms, but I wouldn't get radical on the uppers. Just get FRPP upper bushings that go in the diff and even a new FRPP UCLA is like $70, maybe less.

I've heard that HP shocks/struts are really good and they aren't expensive at all. KYB seems to be a popular choice, especially for the street.

Just take your time and do a couple things at a time and you'll figure out what you "need" without buying stuff twice.

Good luck!

awesome. i might skim thru ebay and look for some lower control arms and maybe some uppers as well if cheap enough. if not, i will just replace the bushings.

thanks buddy!

1TallMF · Mar 14, 2007

I did an entire winter's worth of research before I decided to go all-out and get the MM LCA's, there's alot of useful info on these boards. If you do decide to go the cheaper route and get the ebay arms, they usually have polyurethane bushings at either end. Since your goal is more oriented to handling the twisties, I'd suggest not getting uppers that have polyurethane bushings in them as this will cause all sorts of suspension bind and cause the rear to break traction unpredictably at the limits of handling. Steeda arms are another good option, but they're even more expensive IIRC. They have a 3-piece bushing design that seems pretty effective.

A great alternative to expensive arms are these:
http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Pro3-Mustang-Lower-Control-Arms-79-04-m176.html

Seriously, these would be ideal for you. They're nearly identical to MM arms in every aspect, yet they are much cheaper. I was just about to order them, but then I noticed they don't ship to Canada so I had to go and get a set of MM's.

Car Nut · Mar 14, 2007

carnutz said:
I have a 94 gt with high rate non-progressive springs and tokme I cant spell it shocks and struts.

Corners great drives like a racecar no wheal hop. But it drives like a racecar you feel ever little bump and pebble on the road I would go with the progressive rate springs might help on bumpy roads. But even with the rough ride can’t say enough about the handling you can hit really sharp corners at 60+ tap the breaks load up the front wheals and hit the gas in 3rd full throttle half way though and no role just very high Gs almost 1 sideways.

My springs are 750/850 on the fronts.

While driving normally around town at various speeds, my car now reminds me most of my brother-in-laws new Porsche 911: flat, stiff, predictable handling, predictable braking, and controlled acceleration. You feel stuff, but it's not noisy, jarring, or uncomfortable at all. Never does either car feel unstable or harsh. Not sure what the 911 does with spirited driving, but I'm sure it's good or at least it ought to be spectacular for the price. So that nobody goes nuts over this comparison, let's call it a similarity regarding handling and that's it. Porsches cost money for many spectacular reasons, but I like my exhaust note better and the fact my car is paid for. I felt better about my car after driving the Porsche.

Good seats go a long ways too, because you really shouldn't be moving around in your seat. When you're sitting still, it's easier and more comfortable to drive and understand what your car is telling you.

Car Nut · Mar 14, 2007

1TallMF said:
I did an entire winter's worth of research before I decided to go all-out and get the MM LCA's, there's alot of useful info on these boards. If you do decide to go the cheaper route and get the ebay arms, they usually have polyurethane bushings at either end. Since your goal is more oriented to handling the twisties, I'd suggest not getting uppers that have polyurethane bushings in them as this will cause all sorts of suspension bind and cause the rear to break traction unpredictably at the limits of handling. Steeda arms are another good option, but they're even more expensive IIRC. They have a 3-piece bushing design that seems pretty effective.

+1

fiveoho · Mar 14, 2007

1TallMF said:
I did an entire winter's worth of research before I decided to go all-out and get the MM LCA's, there's alot of useful info on these boards. If you do decide to go the cheaper route and get the ebay arms, they usually have polyurethane bushings at either end. Since your goal is more oriented to handling the twisties, I'd suggest not getting uppers that have polyurethane bushings in them as this will cause all sorts of suspension bind and cause the rear to break traction unpredictably at the limits of handling. Steeda arms are another good option, but they're even more expensive IIRC. They have a 3-piece bushing design that seems pretty effective.

A great alternative to expensive arms are these:
http://www.partshopper.com/shop/Pro3-Mustang-Lower-Control-Arms-79-04-m176.html

Seriously, these would be ideal for you. They're nearly identical to MM arms in every aspect, yet they are much cheaper. I was just about to order them, but then I noticed they don't ship to Canada so I had to go and get a set of MM's.

thanks for the link and the info bro

what all is needed for better handling / less body roll?

fiveoho

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