Mines dieing. Lets say I have approximatly 350 rwhp now but very soon I want it in the 400's. What clutch would be a good match for me?
What clutch do you all recomend
- Thread starter BlueOvalStangGT
- Start date
Black95GTS
Active Member
My clutch setup is the same used in some of the real street cars... so in other words it will hold all over 400rwhp and more. It has less pedal effort than my old FMS HD unit, it doesn't slip at all on the launch now like my old FMS HD did, and it has a monsels (I still don't know how to spell it...) spring unlike the spec stage 3 unit, so it is not as grabby and it doesn't hit the tires as hard either. Hell its less grabby than a spec stage II. I have about 700 miles on it and I am VERY impressed so far. Its a "Kustom Klutch" from Pro Motion. It cost ~$310 for the disc, pressure plate, t-out bearing, and clutch disc alignment tool. That isn't bad for a clutch like this.
Call Walt at 800-771-6843 or 954-771-5575, tell him I told you to call!
Call Walt at 800-771-6843 or 954-771-5575, tell him I told you to call!
Chris, do yourself a favor and call Walt before you order your stage 3. You have nothing to lose by doing so. I think its a tel tell sign when bob Hanlon, Walt, and Don Walsh who are basically the T5/tremec gurus have nothing nice to say about the spec stuff, other than it holds... This is just a suggestion. I have personally seen the tragic results of the spec stage 3 setup with more than a few broken input shafts, axles, etc. There IS truth to this...
BTW- Chris, do you already own a TKO? If not, email me at [email protected] so I can tell you a few things.
My transmission is makeing some peculier noises as well. Can this clutch your talking about(killer) be swapped to a different tranny? All I would need is what you mentioned and a firewall adjuster/cable/quadrant right?
Well, it all depends on what tranny you switch to. If you switch to a 26 spline TKO, you will need a different disc than that used on the stock T5. I know the 3550 uses the same input spline count as the TKO, and I think you have the option on the G force stuff. Obviously the 26 spline stuff is stronger.
As for the quadrant, its a DEFINITE good idea, because most aftermarket clutches take more force to depress than the stocker, and since the stock quadrant is plastic it can crack on you over time. I think an adjustable cable/quadrant is an essential upgrade when doing a clutch. I switched from a LLM setup to a Pro Motion one, and the pro motion setup is leaps and bounds ahead of just about everything else on the market. it has a lot of unique features which I can explain if you want...
As for the quadrant, its a DEFINITE good idea, because most aftermarket clutches take more force to depress than the stocker, and since the stock quadrant is plastic it can crack on you over time. I think an adjustable cable/quadrant is an essential upgrade when doing a clutch. I switched from a LLM setup to a Pro Motion one, and the pro motion setup is leaps and bounds ahead of just about everything else on the market. it has a lot of unique features which I can explain if you want...
zenboy99
Founding Member
My friends SPEC stage 3 just locked up on him after a couple hundred miles. The friction plate welded itself to the flywheel somehow and locked up. He's making 525rwhp.
OK.. 
Most of what I'll tell you is in the following pics... I bought mine directly from Walt, by Anderson sells his setup too. I think Walt might give deals on the quadrant setup if you purchase a clutch with it.
Air gap is CRITICAL for high rpm shifts and the more you have the better. The ramp rate in the quadrant quicker than most so it disengages the clutch quicker which can result in quicker shifts. The firewall adjuster comes with a "stabilizer" that helps distibute the "pulling pressure" exerted on the firewall over a broader area which prevents it from flexing.
Most of what I'll tell you is in the following pics... I bought mine directly from Walt, by Anderson sells his setup too. I think Walt might give deals on the quadrant setup if you purchase a clutch with it.
Air gap is CRITICAL for high rpm shifts and the more you have the better. The ramp rate in the quadrant quicker than most so it disengages the clutch quicker which can result in quicker shifts. The firewall adjuster comes with a "stabilizer" that helps distibute the "pulling pressure" exerted on the firewall over a broader area which prevents it from flexing.
Sounds like a plan, what was the total for the clutch/quadrant and everything? And Paul whats your last name so I can tell him who sent me?
Hmmm... I'll have to look for the bill, but it was somewhere around $440 for the cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster, T-out bearing, clutch alignment tool, pressure plate, and disc shipped. I had my flywheel resurfaced and that cost me ~$25 locally.
My last name is Riva. If he draws a blank just tell him I'm the one with the yellow convertible that was just featured in 5.0 in the article called "ARIVADERCI"
You probably won't reach Walt directly when you call, but if you leave a message for him to call you back he will.
My last name is Riva. If he draws a blank just tell him I'm the one with the yellow convertible that was just featured in 5.0 in the article called "ARIVADERCI"
You probably won't reach Walt directly when you call, but if you leave a message for him to call you back he will.
Joe 5.0
Founding Member
My dual friction McLeod has been perfect, but i"m only making 220rwhp. Its rated for like 450+hp tho
I have heard GREAT things on the McCeod dual friction setup too. I have no experience with it at all though, but everything I hear and read seems good. Mine is a dual compound design with a metalic material on one side and an organic on the other.
Here's pics of mine...
Here's pics of mine...
moneypit94
Active Member
Until recently i have had no problems at all on my F100 Clutchmaster. I haven't heard of many mustang guys using it but at the dyno shops i go to they have all said that it was a great clutch.. IT was only rated at like 300 hp and im finally seeing some slippage but then again its only once in great awhile and it actually helped me out on my 60's when it did it. I ran 4 times today on my slicks and it never acted up once 
Killercanary said:I have heard GREAT things on the McCeod dual friction setup too. I have no experience with it at all though, but everything I hear and read seems good. Mine is a dual compound design with a metalic material on one side and an organic on the other.
Here's pics of mine...
Very nice. Does he have anything for 575+ rwhp? I've already got a SPEC stage 3 sitting here for assembly, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't dump it for something better.
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SlowGT said:
Well, seeing as how this clutch is holding up for 9 second real street cars, I think it'd be OK for that amount of power. Don't quote me but I think Walt told me this was good for 700fwhp in a 3000lb car. I know he has even higher rated stuff than mine. Definitely call him, he'll be able to set you up no matter what the combo.
go-stang5.0
New Member
I broke 2 teeth on my t-5 cluster shaft (2nd gear portion) and it think it had something to do with my bad 2nd gear synchro, the 331, and the spec stage 2...but with this combo of problems I cant put the blame directly on the spec. Although the clutch is very heavy (pedal pressure) and so I think I will replace it with something different. Probably a McLoud w/ an aluminum pressure plate...that will match my aluminum flywheel nicely...talk about rev happy. But I will say that it is very grabby...even at low speeds and you have to ride the clutch a lot to be smooth. Also yes bob hanlon said no to it and so did bubba from g-force trannies. Both recommended McLoud to me.
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