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What fuel pressure should I run???

  • Thread starter Thread starter tbird187
  • Start date Start date Apr 11, 2009
T

tbird187

Founding Member
May 29, 2002
392
1
0
Indiana
Apr 11, 2009
#1
  • Apr 11, 2009
  • #1
Hey guys my car is running extremely rich like make me dizzy driving around rich lol.... anyways what should I be running here are my mods.

trick flow stg1 cam
ported gt40 heads,
coba intake
a1000 pump..... yah i know lol
aeromotive rails,
aeromotive fuel pressure reg
24lb injectors
pro m 75 mm mass air for 24 lbers
bbk throttle body
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Apr 12, 2009
#2
  • Apr 12, 2009
  • #2
39-40ish PSI with the vaccuum line off. I'm assuming the Aeromotive system still uses the return line?
 
T

tbird187

Founding Member
May 29, 2002
392
1
0
Indiana
Apr 12, 2009
#3
  • Apr 12, 2009
  • #3
Yeah I just dont understand why it is so rich at idle... literally burns my eyes
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
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Mar 10, 2000
27,512
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Dublin GA
Apr 12, 2009
#4
  • Apr 12, 2009
  • #4
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Apr 12, 2009
#5
  • Apr 12, 2009
  • #5
I'm running the same basic combo and mine is rich too but I know why. I'm running an off road H pipe. With my catted H it has no smell.
 
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