What is This Fan Controller?

I have that exact same fan controller, except I still have the little black knob on mine. Any way it is really easy to hook up. Hopefully the picture that I'm posting will explain how I did mine. I'm sure there is another of hooking this controller up but this is how I did it and it has worked this way for almost a year now with no problems. I know some people have used this controller to give the relay ground and they said that was safer. I see no problems with my way but others may disagree so do it at your own risk.

On the part of testing it, the only thing I can come up with is to adjust the fan controller to it's lowest temp setting. Then put the copper bulb in hot/boiling water. You will need a multimeter/continuity tester to check and see if it works. When using the multimeter set it to ohms and check to see what it reads across the terminals. If it reads infinite/zero, then it either isn't hot enough or it's not working. If you get X number of ohms then the switch has closed and the controller is working. When using a continuity tester, you will just check for continuity across the terminals. If you get nothing then again it either isn't hot enough or it isn't working. If you get continuity then the switch has closed and is working. Hopefully some of this has been some help to you. Sorry if parts don't make sense I need some sleep. Maybe someone else will chime in if I screwed something up or if I did this wrong all together. Anyway good luck and let me know if you need something explained differently.

I also forgot to mention that when I bought the controller the guy at the auto parts store said it was the same exact on the comes on the Black Majic fans, just that it wasn't as pretty looking. I have no idea if that is right, because I haven't ever seen a Black Majic fan up close.

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Personally, I would skip the controller. Why have it kick on at a certain temp when it can run 100% of the time without hurting HP. Just my advice...

Killer50stang said:

Personally, I would skip the controller. Why have it kick on at a certain temp when it can run 100% of the time without hurting HP. Just my advice...

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The problem with it running 100 percent all the time is that it puts a lot of extra load on the charging system that is not needed. Also when the fan kicks on from a dead stop to 100% it is very hard on the fan motor and spikes your electrical system. This is not good either.

Bot the fan and your charging syatem will last longer with a proper fan controller.

When you do the test be sure to calibrate the thermometer to see when it activates.

1989MustangLX said:

Well, I understand parts of that at least. Does this thing have to be grounded somehow? Also, can I run it without a relay?

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I have no ground wire run to the unit it self. I screwed it to the side of the fender well so I guess you could say that it is grounded that way. Previously I had the unit attatched to the plastic shroud on my Mark VIII fan, and it worked just fine so I would say you don't need to ground it.

I also would not run an electric fan without a relay. For one like 89sleeper said it is gonna strain your charging system all the time with it running like that. Also without the relay you will have to run the fan directly off of the battery or the alt, and you will have no way of shutting it off. Unless you put a very heavy duty switch in to kill power to it. Lastly if you did run it all the time there would be no need to run this fan controller or any other one for that matter.

I don't have the website where I ordered the relay from so maybe someone else will chime in as to where to get it from. Let me know if I can explain anything any better for you. Good Luck

Here is a quick diagram I did up in Paint, so bear with me. Hopefully this will explain it better than I have already. I wasn't sure what the terminal numbers were on the relay so I didn't mark them with the corresponding number. There will be a schematic on the back of the packaging that will show you what number terminal corresponds to what. Anyway hopefully this will help you out more and if not let me know. Good luck

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You'd be MUCH better off using one of these to control your electric fan.... www.dccontrol.com.

"Why have it kick on at a certain temp when it can run 100% of the time without hurting HP." Someone doesn't understand the fundamentals very well. Electric power in the car (or anywhere else for that matter) is not free. The more current you ask the alternator to supply, the harder it is to turn -- which means it puts more of a parasitic drag on the engine. While even the largest electric takes less power to run than the most efficient mechanical, there's absolutely no reason to run the electric fan all the time. "Advice" is not the word I would have used to describe your suggestion....

That controller is very much like most sexually transmitted diseases ---- lots of people will give it to you for free, but that doesn't make it worth having. Good luck with it nonetheless!

1989MustangLX, I will agree with Michael Yount, in that this controller does suck for the most part. I have used it on my car for the past 1.5 years with no problems, but it was a pain to get working correctly. Like others have said in the past it is no where near accurate and it is hard to get it to not leak where you run the probe into the upper radiator hose. I had no problems with it the first time I installed it other than taking a while to get it set right temp wise. Now after I removed it and then reinstalled it again I did have a little leaking problem. Nothing a little RTV silicone didn't solve for the time being. Anyway good luck with getting yours installed and hope yours is as trouble free as mine was. Let me know if you need any help with anything else.

I was trying to be as gently as I could - left with a choice between using a 'controller' like that, and a big-ass fuse/toggle/relay - I'd choose the latter.

As before, save/spend the money on the Delta Current controller - it is a world class piece of equipment.