The Install of a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump.
By: (modstang@usa.net) cause I wasn't going to type it all.
first off it's all wires and no fuel lines or pumps to replace or tank to drop, if you're planing on supercharging your stang you'll want(need) to go all out with of a high volume fuel pump and accessories. (this booster can also be used on a high volume pump to really up the fuel volume!)
remove the negative lead from the battery.
The package comes complete with all wire connectors and mounting screws you need,
just basic hand tools and a wire crimper are needed and let me tell you I am no
electrical engineer.
The KB instructions are pretty good, they tell you the fuel pump relay power wire is located in the trunk, and it is, just remove the shielding and spice the unit in according to their wiring diagram, it's very important to ground this unit properly. I mounted the unit right next to harness i spliced into with four self tapping screws. In all it take about an hour or two to see/hear the pump booster in operation. A twist of the cockpit controller and you can hear that fuel pump whine higher and higher.
I opted to hard wire the booster. this eliminates the vacuum unit (comes with the kit) for WOT activation of the booster. I recommend (and KB says it's fine) this method, it lessens the install greatly too.
What is left now is routing the cockpit controller from the trunk to the interiors. this is more time consuming than installing the booster and KB includes no tips
for this part.
To make a long story short, this is how I routed the controller wire. In the trunk are some rubber plugs, I pulled the one in the rear right corner and sliced a hole just wide enough to feed the line through. The wire passed through the chassis and out a hole where it is exposed (i.e. it drops to the ground) I then routed it away from the suspension and exhaust and followed a ire from the ABS brakes back up into and under the rear seat (you need to remove the rear seat, it's easy) where I sliced a hole in the grommet that the ABS wire goes through. In the process I tie-wrapped the exposed controller wire and shielded it with some wire cover tubing. that's it. The controller is now in the Mustang with a lot spare cable (you cannot change the length of this cable). Coupe owners might be able to pass straight through the trunk wall (sounds a lot easier to me!) but the ragtop makes it too difficult for me.
I have not mounted the dial permanently. As I am waiting for my NOS kit and other switches that I will fab a panel for, most likely under the CD player.
Hope this helps anyone doing this mod.
modstang@usa.net
By: (modstang@usa.net) cause I wasn't going to type it all.
first off it's all wires and no fuel lines or pumps to replace or tank to drop, if you're planing on supercharging your stang you'll want(need) to go all out with of a high volume fuel pump and accessories. (this booster can also be used on a high volume pump to really up the fuel volume!)
remove the negative lead from the battery.
The package comes complete with all wire connectors and mounting screws you need,
just basic hand tools and a wire crimper are needed and let me tell you I am no
electrical engineer.
The KB instructions are pretty good, they tell you the fuel pump relay power wire is located in the trunk, and it is, just remove the shielding and spice the unit in according to their wiring diagram, it's very important to ground this unit properly. I mounted the unit right next to harness i spliced into with four self tapping screws. In all it take about an hour or two to see/hear the pump booster in operation. A twist of the cockpit controller and you can hear that fuel pump whine higher and higher.
I opted to hard wire the booster. this eliminates the vacuum unit (comes with the kit) for WOT activation of the booster. I recommend (and KB says it's fine) this method, it lessens the install greatly too.
What is left now is routing the cockpit controller from the trunk to the interiors. this is more time consuming than installing the booster and KB includes no tips
for this part.
To make a long story short, this is how I routed the controller wire. In the trunk are some rubber plugs, I pulled the one in the rear right corner and sliced a hole just wide enough to feed the line through. The wire passed through the chassis and out a hole where it is exposed (i.e. it drops to the ground) I then routed it away from the suspension and exhaust and followed a ire from the ABS brakes back up into and under the rear seat (you need to remove the rear seat, it's easy) where I sliced a hole in the grommet that the ABS wire goes through. In the process I tie-wrapped the exposed controller wire and shielded it with some wire cover tubing. that's it. The controller is now in the Mustang with a lot spare cable (you cannot change the length of this cable). Coupe owners might be able to pass straight through the trunk wall (sounds a lot easier to me!) but the ragtop makes it too difficult for me.
I have not mounted the dial permanently. As I am waiting for my NOS kit and other switches that I will fab a panel for, most likely under the CD player.
Hope this helps anyone doing this mod.
modstang@usa.net