what should be my next Mod????????????

[BlackenedSVT]

Predator and installation money for the gears.

Good call, get some HP AND have your speedo recalibrated by it all in one shot.

Otherwise I would recommend:
- Timing Adjuster
- Accufab 75mm T/B and Plenum Combo (for supercharged) or 70mm (for N/A)
- Sub Frame Connectors (or other suspension work, like springs, adj struts)
- Aluminum driveshaft
- Headers

 

[ScottyG00GT]

Get weld-in subframe connectors (low $200's installed). You will have $400 left over to make power, and you will have some assurance that as your car builds up the miles it won't squeak and rattle nearly as much (especially if you are going to be adding more horsepower). They made a big difference in the already-solid feel of my coupe. I put this off on my own car because I didn't want to spend $$$ on something that didn't really make power or make the car look more cool, but in the end I wished I had done this as soon as I drove my car off the dealer's lot.

I recommend Kenny Browns for a relatively mild street car. They are not as tricky to install as full-lengths, they don't decrease your ground clearance (especially if you are going to lower your Mustang someday), and for the type of use that most daily driver cars see, they are plenty strong. For cars that get beat on/raced regularly, the full-lengths are probably a better choice, but I am definitely not an authority on this . . .

 

[east_sidaz40]

Thank you all for all of your help
regarding the VT stage one cams. how more power will i get out of that? and how much do they cost?
regarding the aluminum DS, is it worth the $240 i will spend on it?

you guys need to remember , that I'm not ANYWHERE near a dyno place. The closest is about 8 Hrs away. and i wont drive there its way too far.
I think for now I'm gonna go with the predator like some people adviced and maybe i'll look in to a wideband O2 since i might get a KB sometime later
___________________
alex

 

[Newbie143]

Get weld-in subframe connectors (low $200's installed). You will have $400 left over to make power, and you will have some assurance that as your car builds up the miles it won't squeak and rattle nearly as much (especially if you are going to be adding more horsepower). They made a big difference in the already-solid feel of my coupe. I put this off on my own car because I didn't want to spend $$$ on something that didn't really make power or make the car look more cool, but in the end I wished I had done this as soon as I drove my car off the dealer's lot.

I recommend Kenny Browns for a relatively mild street car. They are not as tricky to install as full-lengths, they don't decrease your ground clearance (especially if you are going to lower your Mustang someday), and for the type of use that most daily driver cars see, they are plenty strong. For cars that get beat on/raced regularly, the full-lengths are probably a better choice, but I am definitely not an authority on this . . .

subframe connectors?? can someone please tell me how they work . Just some basic info about them since i dont know anything about those

 

[ScottyG00GT]

Subframe connectors are metal braces that weld to the front and rear subframes, tying the two assemblies together. All late-model mustangs have fairly strong front and rear subframe assemblies, but being unit-body construction cars, the subframes are an integral part of the car's body, rather than being part of a separate frame as on many older cars from the '50's and '60's. There is no real "frame" underneath the car between the front and rear "subframes" - your car is basically held together by the sheet metal and spot welds in the floor pan/transmission tunnel/rocker panels! (in coupes, the roof helps, too.)

What this means is that over time, as mileage builds (and especially if you drive hard and/or add power), the car becomes more flexible as welds weaken and the metal itself becomes more flexible from being twisted from the torque of the drivetrain and from going around corners. This is why all such mustangs (especially convertibles) squeak and rattle as they get older. Also, in day-to-day driving, even a new car sometimes feels a bit unstable over bumps, and tends to flex under hard cornering.

Later convertibles have bolt-in subframe connectors, but they don't do a lot of good - a good subframe connector should be welded in, and a lot of them bolt to the floor pan using the seat attachment bolts, adding extra strenth to the assembly. Do a search on this site and you'll find a lot of good advice on installation (whether you do it yourself or have a shop do it) and on brands.

All in all, subframes are a good investment. Not only will you notice an improvement right away in how the car feels (especially in curves and over bumps), but you are insuring your car against long-term deterioration in ride quality and handling, not to mention against squeaks and rattles. Plus, they are a good foundation for further power/suspension improvements.