I've got a '93 Cobra with Bassani X-Pipe and Flowmasters, other than that it's stock. But, I'm looking at rebuilding the engine, since I just got it and it's got 170k+ miles on it. I figured, why not just replace the cam while I've got the engine pulled? So I ask you all, what is a good cam I can run with a Procharger on the horizon, in the near to distant future?
What size cam should I go with?
- Thread starter tx2000gt
- Start date
Daniel50
New Member
e-303 cam from ford would be perfect for that type setup. you already have the gt-40 heads and cobra intake so this would be a perfect match for those components
txstang84
15 Year Member
how much power are you expecting to make...are you planning to run a stroker, or stay 306...you have to take your expectations into account to make a cam choice. i'm learning that one slowly but surely. i put a thread up here about three weeks ago about blower cam selection, and what cam to use that would play well with N/A until the blower went on. I was told that running a custom grind would be the best way to maximize your combo...ck out
www.flowtechinduction.com
they can more than likely grind you a custom roller for $325 that will make the most of your combination, and expectations...
www.flowtechinduction.com
they can more than likely grind you a custom roller for $325 that will make the most of your combination, and expectations...
Custom usually works best. It's just that the 93 cobra has some restrictions.
The computer sucks, so does the mass air meter. I'd ditch the computer for a 90-93 computer, and run an 80mm pro m.
If you are keeping the heads, at least have the springs done, along with bowl cleanup and valve job. With 170000 on them, they will need it. Then call a custom cam guy and have it match it to the combo.
you can probably up the Hp 50 at the wheels with these simple mods, on that particular car.
The computer sucks, so does the mass air meter. I'd ditch the computer for a 90-93 computer, and run an 80mm pro m.
If you are keeping the heads, at least have the springs done, along with bowl cleanup and valve job. With 170000 on them, they will need it. Then call a custom cam guy and have it match it to the combo.
you can probably up the Hp 50 at the wheels with these simple mods, on that particular car.
Daniel50
New Member
Forged internals don't mean much in a stock block. Because the stock block can only handle 500hp. And that's on a good day.
It's the block that's weak, not the rotating assembly.
Now if you use a 306 and a pro charger you may be alright.
It's the block that's weak, not the rotating assembly.
Now if you use a 306 and a pro charger you may be alright.
I honestly know nothing about crate engines other than the difference between a longblock and a shortblock. Could you maybe point me in the right direction for a good, bang for your buck shortblock?
Edit: After looking around for awhile, I found the company "DSS" and their short blocks. It seems to look good to me, a 306 "capable of making 550 hp." Or so the website says... But a shortblock complete with forged crank, rods, etc for about $2500...sounds good to me
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Edit: After looking around for awhile, I found the company "DSS" and their short blocks. It seems to look good to me, a 306 "capable of making 550 hp." Or so the website says... But a shortblock complete with forged crank, rods, etc for about $2500...sounds good to me
.I for one don't like Dss and you'll find alot of people here don't either.
I prefer Natural aspiration.
If you stay na you can use the Ford motorsport forged 347 for $2900. It uses a slightly stronger block (sportsman) and can bolt all stock parts right back on to it.
But as said, if you go to a 347 and use a supercharger, you are easily going to exceed the stock blocks strength and even the sportsman.
Here's a friends combo, sportsman 347, twisted wedge heads, custom cam, victor jr efi intake, 30lb injectors, went 10.7 @124mph, no superhcarger or nitrous.
I prefer Natural aspiration.
If you stay na you can use the Ford motorsport forged 347 for $2900. It uses a slightly stronger block (sportsman) and can bolt all stock parts right back on to it.
But as said, if you go to a 347 and use a supercharger, you are easily going to exceed the stock blocks strength and even the sportsman.
Here's a friends combo, sportsman 347, twisted wedge heads, custom cam, victor jr efi intake, 30lb injectors, went 10.7 @124mph, no superhcarger or nitrous.
txstang84
15 Year Member
2000xp8 said:
if he's potentially going to go to the trouble of getting a custom cam, more than likely, it would benefit him to take it somewhere for a little bit of tuning...and i know we got into this discussion last night, i know you think it's all but worthless...you can keep your opinion-his engine is not yours.
to a certain degree, the X3Z computer does have some annoying little quirks, but, trust me, it's no worse than the T4MO or J4J1 the '94-'95's carry onboard...all of which can be modified just like the A9L or A9P to make more appropriate fuel and timing adjustments. As for the MAF, yeah, it's not great, but the fact that it's 70mm is far and away better than the stock 89-93's 57mm MAF, and if nothing else it will work until he gets a new one-oh and did you know that C&L's can be used with the X3Z puter? they just require different sampling tubes than the A9L. A friend of mine's '90GT has a Cobra computer/MAF installed, and believe it or not, it was no worse to tune (FP and timing) than my friends '88 vert with MA conversion.
But, the advice about the heads is sound, a good bowl port and some port matching-maybe get a hold of Thumper460 for the head porting, and tmoss can port your intake (if you don't feel up to it), and easily get that neck snapping throttle response and a sizable gain to the ground...
txstang84 said:
LOL, why the hell would a custom cam need any more "tuning" than a regular cam. As i've always said, tuning is Fuel pressure and timing. It's not some big project you need a dyno for.
Rarely does a dyno shop tune a car correctly to make it go the fastest, they tune it for the customer who wants to see a big number. They are good for determining if your mods helped, but usually you have to use the same dyno twice, or there will be variables.
You set the base timing and fuel pressure and use the track to see what runs best.
txstang84
15 Year Member
the custom cam is going to have different ramp rates, and duration than a typical cam, it's going to be "made" for your combo...why not take full advantage of it?
partially right, they're going to tune it for the highest number-but, a reputable shop will also to tune it for the least possibility of detonation, i.e. fuel curve-which once again, is much more critical on power adder engines...didn't he say he was thinking about running a supercharger? And like i said in another reply on another thread, just cranking up your fuel pressure, and bumping your initial timing will not always give your particular combination the desired effect.
last time i ck'd Mustangs don't have knock sensors, so advancing your timing where it runs best will sometimes not play too well with computer determined advance curves...and sometimes dropping the initial advance will not cure your midrange or wot detonation problems, and even if it does, then your initial timing is so low that it runs like a$$ on the low end...
we'll agree to disagree on this one, I can see where you're coming from though, since you prefer N/A, there's rarely a huge need to tune unless you've changed so many variables that the car can't be satisfactorily adjusted with just initial timing and fp tweaking.
tx: If you want to run a blower, go for it, just keep the combo reasonable, and it will still make great hp...there are people on this forum who are pushing close to 500 whp (or more) with a boosted 306...even a 500whp N/A 347 is going to have some mild drivability issues
If you go N/A, I suspect the general concensus would be to go stroker-dependant upon your expectations. If you only want to run 12's, then a little 306 with an average supply of bolt ons, and some chassis stiffening would be fine...
partially right, they're going to tune it for the highest number-but, a reputable shop will also to tune it for the least possibility of detonation, i.e. fuel curve-which once again, is much more critical on power adder engines...didn't he say he was thinking about running a supercharger? And like i said in another reply on another thread, just cranking up your fuel pressure, and bumping your initial timing will not always give your particular combination the desired effect.
last time i ck'd Mustangs don't have knock sensors, so advancing your timing where it runs best will sometimes not play too well with computer determined advance curves...and sometimes dropping the initial advance will not cure your midrange or wot detonation problems, and even if it does, then your initial timing is so low that it runs like a$$ on the low end...
we'll agree to disagree on this one, I can see where you're coming from though, since you prefer N/A, there's rarely a huge need to tune unless you've changed so many variables that the car can't be satisfactorily adjusted with just initial timing and fp tweaking.
tx: If you want to run a blower, go for it, just keep the combo reasonable, and it will still make great hp...there are people on this forum who are pushing close to 500 whp (or more) with a boosted 306...even a 500whp N/A 347 is going to have some mild drivability issues
If you go N/A, I suspect the general concensus would be to go stroker-dependant upon your expectations. If you only want to run 12's, then a little 306 with an average supply of bolt ons, and some chassis stiffening would be fine...
