what type of heads?

XavB

New Member
Mar 9, 2003
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Honolulu, HI
Sorry another "what type of head" thread but I'm lost of this. So far I have an Edelbrock Victor EFI upper and lower, and a E303 cam (these are not on the car yet). The is my only car and driven daily. Other mods are BBK o/r h, BBK shorty headers, 2chamber flows, BBK 65mm TB, an electric fann and 4.10s. I will be switching it over to a 5speed in the next couple of weeks. Just a rebuilt T5. Any opinions on what type of heads? Thanks.
 
First off, IMO, trade your intake down for an rpm.
The victor efi is a short runner high rpm intake used in car that usually exceed 6000rpm, which your car is not going to do with an E cam.
Use Twisted wedge or Track heat tfs heads. Some will say Afrs, but they cost more and do no better than the tfs heads. No need for a pissing contest like always, performance is very similar, just one set is $200 cheaper.
 
First off, IMO, trade your intake down for an rpm.
The victor efi is a short runner high rpm intake used in car that usually exceed 6000rpm, which your car is not going to do with an E cam.
Use Twisted wedge or Track heat tfs heads. Some will say Afrs, but they cost more and do no better than the tfs heads. No need for a pissing contest like always, performance is very similar, just one set is $200 cheaper.

Well it is those comments that cause the 'peeing' contest;)

I did lots of research on what makes the most power under the curve and went with the advice of the custom cam grinder, Ed Curtis. He suggested AFR 165's. I have had both heads, new, in front of me. I like the afr's;)
 
what is the difference between the track heat and twisted wedge that would lead me toward one or the other? i see on 50resto.com that you can order the twisted wedge with the upgrade springs like the ones on the track heats. if you do that they come out to about the same price as the heats. would it be better to just buy the track heats?
 
LOL..For a street car any good alum head will do.I say drop the intake for a ported cobra or explorer intake.

As far what head is better ,it really boils down to is COMBO's..I run what some would call wimp heads (performer 5.0's).But from what ive seen ,mine makes just as good of power as most afr,trick flow packages out there.
Also not sure on emissions but a good set of longtubes will help a LOT..
 
Very little difference between shorties and longtubes...

I have had both:) Same primaries, just different design, same performance:)


actually no ..only difference in the two dynos was fms caoted shorties w a o/r xpipe(blue)..Vs coated (inside and out) bbk longtubes w o/r hpipe .No change in the tune,hotter the last dyno time,and on the same dyno..

dyno
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temps:
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air fuel:
airfuel.webp
 

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So your telling me that you made 30 more hp and 42 more tq AT THE WHEELS when you switched FROM long tubes and O/R H TO shorties and O/R X!!!! i cant believe that...Sorry


Really dont care what u believe thats the only changes to MY car..Nothing in the tune,no other parts etc.

Been doing this to many years to be worried about being called a bs artiest.

Note it was already a h/c/i car just with shorty exhaust.
 
ok one more thing, i'm looking at the Twisted Wedges, but they sell them with the o-rings and without. would i need a set that has been o-ringed? why would someone need a set that has been o-ringed?
 
If you don't know what o-ringed heads are for, and were thinking of using a Victor EFI intake on a daily driver......a Victor EFI intake with an E cam no less.......above all other things I would recommend you not buy another damn part for this car before you have a better idea of what you are doing.

O-ringed heads are designed for special head gaskets with metal o-rings that slip into the grooves cut into the surface of the heads. These are used for better gasket retention, typically in conjunction with head studs, in boosted applications where your nitrous, supercharger, or whatever's boost is essentially trying to blow the heads off the block.

Your E303 cam is a downright terrible mismatch for the Victor EFI intake. One of them has to go. Seeing as how your driving it daily, ditch the Victor.
 
fairlane's opinion may be a bit harsh, but it's true, that's exactly why i said the same thing above.

As far as heads, don't write off any aluminum head, i'm still a fan of gt40x's, and the price has come down on them again i think, i think new they can now be found under a grand.
And still the best NA stock shortblock combo i've seen run to date (in a regular full wieght street car) was gt40x's e cam, real gt40 intake, and that was 11.80's@116.
 
thanks for that explanation. as i have been doing more research since my original post i have decided to ditch the e cam, and go with some other cam (after some more research ofcourse) that will suit which ever set up i go with and have actually been thinking of selling the victor also. i got it for cheap here locally...which is hard to do, so i bought it for $300 just in case i could use it later. also, thanks for that info on the o-rings.
 
Really dont care what u believe thats the only changes to MY car..Nothing in the tune,no other parts etc.

Been doing this to many years to be worried about being called a bs artiest.

Note it was already a h/c/i car just with shorty exhaust.

Dude I'm confused here...you say the car was already HCI with a shorty exhaust? So are those gains from switching TO longtubes or are they from switching TO Shorties?

I find it hard to believe that everyone in the high performance industry uses long tubes...i wonder why they would do that if the cheaper and easier to instal shorties made more power...substantially more power?:shrug: