ya so My MAF senser took a crap, and I need a new one. What the best one for a pretty much stock motor. I got an F303 cam, all exhuast work, and a cold air intake. would like an 80mm be too big??
Whats the best recommended MAF for the stock #19's.
- Thread starter LordMustangGT
- Start date
Not sure your CAI will match up to an 80mm. The 80 is larger than you need with your current setup though. Just get a C&L, you can change the tubes as you increase injector size. Get the largest you can fit on your existing equipment.
PS I am running 11's with an old 77mm
PS I am running 11's with an old 77mm
Repostyle
Member
I have a C&L 76mm and it is pretty tight in the stock TB tube. 76mm would be good for a mostly stock motor, but make sure you get one for 19's not 24's and you won't have to change the tube size inside.
I had a 76mm C&L and now I have an 80mm PMAS... the C&L worked fine when I was NA but I could not get it to work once I got the blower. I have a wideband and I can tell you, the C&L did not respond well to having a cone filter mounted anywhere near it. Car runs better with the PMAS than it did with the stock MAF, not so with the C&L.
My Pro M can't hack it with a cone filter. For me, the CAI intake helped driveability, not performance.
gospeedgo
Banned
Getting back to the original post, if the maf is screwed up- he must mean electronics. I have yet to see the housing take a poo. When buying the electronics (necessary if you upgrade to a C+L, which is also what I would recommend) you are best off using either Delco or Motorcraft. neither are cheap, but I cant begin to count how many (insert parts store name here) specials we have seen that were worse than the bad unit that came off.
2004mysticobra
New Member
If you have the maf transfer function and can have it loaded in your tune the Lightning 90mm works great with big cams. Ran it with my 1st 93 that had the Steeda 18 cam, 1.72 rockers, 42lb injs, YS trim, etc.
PMAS (PRO-M) needs you to tell them it will be running with a cone filter on the end and they will calibrate it to work with that setup (this is what I was told). I have a cone filter right on the end of it with my Powerpipe and it drives great. I tried all of the tricks I had ever heard of (clocking, building a shield around the filter, putting a small tube between the filter and the MAF, etc.) with my C&L and the only way I found to get it to work right was to put the stock airbox back on.
If your stock one is toast, you are going to want to buy a new meter that comes with electronics. My C&L was just a metal housing that I had to transfer the stock electronics to. If your electronics are the problem, getting a C&L housing aint going to help anything.
If your stock one is toast, you are going to want to buy a new meter that comes with electronics. My C&L was just a metal housing that I had to transfer the stock electronics to. If your electronics are the problem, getting a C&L housing aint going to help anything.
94gsl5.0 said:It should... If not, at least you tried rightPM sent.
Just got it on, ya I did have to grind down that edge. But perrrs like a cat. But so did the stock one, I wont know for sure till I take it down the road, and get on it again. I know I told you this when i was there, but you got a clean car!! Good to meet u in person. When I get the AEM I might need your help. But thats aways away.
