I agree with Victor, my naturaly aspirated (N/A) .060" over 289 ran 11.08 @ 119 with dual 660's and ported '69 351w heads. stock cast crank, solid roller cam, aluminum rods, 12.7:1 pistons - its not a street motor, but I know of N/A 289's and 302's that ran in the 12.50-13.50 range in the 1/4 that didn't have all the fancy aluminum heads and new cam technology, they used mechanical cams and ported stock heads. I'll bet you could build a 350HP motor with ported stock heads and a nice hydraulic roller cam with a decent single plane intake and not break the bank. I know a lot of guys will say just to throw a set of aluminum heads on there, but if you port them yourself all the labor is free, and that's what the price of porting heads is, labor. I'll bet that easily over half the people that have aluminum heads aren't even tuning their motors to optimum performance anyway. I'll bet that most have at least another 50HP in them, it's all about selecting the right parts. Now I'm not bashing aluminum heads, I think they're great. But what I'm saying is, if you can get X hp/X tq out of a motor without aluminum heads and your in the ballpark (if not the same or better) than the dude that just buys a set of aluminum heads and throws them on, think of where you'd get with the same set of aluminum heads he has. dialing in a combo takes time and copiuos notes. Throwing parts at something can increase performance (many just want the easy way out) and money isn't as much of a deal, buy a set of heads and they'll be at your house in 3 days. Porting a set of stock heads can take 8-12 hours per head for a beginner. Now what'll end up happening is you'll probably spend 2-3 hours a night and do one port each night because you have school/work. So this will take a week easily. The best part of it is, you can say you did it all yourself. There's plenty of reference on the 'net fo you to be able to do this, it just takes time to read and study it. Who knows, you could be the next Billy Glidden.