What's the limit?

well weight wise you could do a 347 stroker in a 302 block and be pretty much the same wieght. to keep the same springs or you could do 400+ stroker with a 351 block but that would be heavier. Brakes depends on what you got now.

monkeyman08880 said:

I have a completely stock 68 coupe with a 289. Im looking to upgrade to a larger engine because the 289 is so slow. I was looking at some stroker engines and i came across a few that i like. What i want to know is what is my limit with the hp and engine size, before i have to upgrade the suspension and brakes ( i like the 302 with 350 hp and the 351w with 365hp - are these gonna work with the stock mustang?).

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The strokers and 351s are very nice, but you can do a lot with a 289, too. Pick up a book that deals with small block block Ford performance at a decent book store. For example, a high rise intake, 500CFM or 600 CFM vacuum secondary, cam, headers (I recommend the Hipos because they go forever but they are not quite as free flowing as the tri-y's or whatever), dual exhaust (2.25" or 2.5" with a cross tube and Flowmasters or some performance mufflers), a distributor recurve, a pertronix unit to replace the points, a hot coil, a deeper rear end, like 3.55 or lower depending on your transmission, and you will be very surprised. You'll probably have to do this stuff with a stoker anyway. And as you do one thng at a time, it will be noticable on your 289. Read up on it and learn. It is a great way to start.....

why not just rebuild your 289 and change the heads, cam, intake, and carb? Something like an edelbrock performer package is something I think you would be interested in.

I agree with Victor, my naturaly aspirated (N/A) .060" over 289 ran 11.08 @ 119 with dual 660's and ported '69 351w heads. stock cast crank, solid roller cam, aluminum rods, 12.7:1 pistons - its not a street motor, but I know of N/A 289's and 302's that ran in the 12.50-13.50 range in the 1/4 that didn't have all the fancy aluminum heads and new cam technology, they used mechanical cams and ported stock heads. I'll bet you could build a 350HP motor with ported stock heads and a nice hydraulic roller cam with a decent single plane intake and not break the bank. I know a lot of guys will say just to throw a set of aluminum heads on there, but if you port them yourself all the labor is free, and that's what the price of porting heads is, labor. I'll bet that easily over half the people that have aluminum heads aren't even tuning their motors to optimum performance anyway. I'll bet that most have at least another 50HP in them, it's all about selecting the right parts. Now I'm not bashing aluminum heads, I think they're great. But what I'm saying is, if you can get X hp/X tq out of a motor without aluminum heads and your in the ballpark (if not the same or better) than the dude that just buys a set of aluminum heads and throws them on, think of where you'd get with the same set of aluminum heads he has. dialing in a combo takes time and copiuos notes. Throwing parts at something can increase performance (many just want the easy way out) and money isn't as much of a deal, buy a set of heads and they'll be at your house in 3 days. Porting a set of stock heads can take 8-12 hours per head for a beginner. Now what'll end up happening is you'll probably spend 2-3 hours a night and do one port each night because you have school/work. So this will take a week easily. The best part of it is, you can say you did it all yourself. There's plenty of reference on the 'net fo you to be able to do this, it just takes time to read and study it. Who knows, you could be the next Billy Glidden.

Well, since you are new, i think it would be wise to go ahead and bpick up a book about building small block fords. This will really help. As for your issues on a motor. it all depends on how much you are willing to spend. If I had the money I would go spend $6000 and buy a 347 stroker from Ford Racing to cut all the guess work-450 horsies to be exact. But you can make that 289 into a sceamer with the right parts. A 300-350 horse 289 is attainable but will require quite abit of work.

get a late model fox roller 5.0

monkeyman08880 said:

Thanks for the help, but im not an experienced mechanic. What is a distributor recurve, a pertronix unit, and a hot coil? (I know what the rest is)

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A recurve lets the timing come in faster so you get a better spark. Stock distributors are slow. For a $25.00 kit, you can adjust it so it is optimized. Ther Pertronix unit turns your distributor into an electronic ignition. It takes about the same time to install as a set of points. A hot coil is just a coil that is set up to put out more to the plugs. Pertronix, MSD, etc. all have them.

All this said, I still think that picking up a book on Ford small block performance will help you. It is not expensive and will explain many of the options available to you and, going slowly, help you gain experience. Remember, none of us were experienced at one time. The more you do yourself, the more you save, plus you will feel good when you do something that really makes a difference. The exhaust should be done by a shop, but the rest you can do yourself. Yes, there are kits out there, but I don't like them, everyone I know whom has used one has had problems. Just take your time, ask a lot of questions and make up a plan. The book(s) will really help. These cars are easy to work on...you can do it, assuming that you want to. You might also send out a message looking for other Mustangers in your area in this forum, and join a local Mustang club. Lots of help available there, too.