where did you guys get your mil Eliminators
- Thread starter old_blue
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Skud
Member
I made my own....
Working fine for 2 years now...
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=472237
Riley
Working fine for 2 years now...
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=472237
Riley
Yeah love that car. Are you using it as a daily driver or a weekend cruiser? The only thing I hate about those cars is the wheels. I saw a guy a coupe months ago in a mustang magazine that used the vintage mach 1 wheels and it looked awesome. I just think the wheels on those are to one dimensional and flush. If they were deep dish they would be bad a**.
DaNd4Speed
Founding Member
+1 on the referenced cougar forum link. I've made my own as well, and have had no problems whatsoever. It's amazing that people will still gladly spend $40-$60 for a set of MIL eliminators when this information is so readily availible. It's not rocket science to build these things, and it only costs a couple of bucks in parts from radio shack.
i made some of my own but i think the reason they are not working is my O2 sensor is damaged inside the pipe would this couse them not to work properly. and could someone plz send me a good picture of what yall looked like when you were done soo i can see if ours look the same.. plz my O/R x-pipes are coming in later this week and i need to get my mils working correctly
Skud
Member
Got this in a PM.. I thought I would share it so it would benefit everyone..
The reason the pics aren't there anymore is because I posted that a long time ago and the server I had my pictures on is long gone..
Anyways.. I made another set and instead of encasing it in epoxy I just covered the whole MIL with high temp RTV and then covered that with heat shrink and put zip-ties at each end.
I've found the best way is to:
1) Put the heat shrink around your MIL
2) Zip tie it at one end.
3) Fill the inside of the heat shrink with RTV through the other end (that you haven't zip-tied yet. Make sure to only fill it enough that you leave enough heat shrink that you can zip tie this end.
4) Then wait for it to cure.
5) Zip tie the open end that you filled through.
6) Shrink the heat shrink with a lighter, etc..
The idea is that you don't want any water or moisture to get in there otherwise the resistor and capacitor will corrode and you will get a nice SES light on your dash.
Thanks!!
Riley
old_blue said:
The reason the pics aren't there anymore is because I posted that a long time ago and the server I had my pictures on is long gone..
Anyways.. I made another set and instead of encasing it in epoxy I just covered the whole MIL with high temp RTV and then covered that with heat shrink and put zip-ties at each end.
I've found the best way is to:
1) Put the heat shrink around your MIL
2) Zip tie it at one end.
3) Fill the inside of the heat shrink with RTV through the other end (that you haven't zip-tied yet. Make sure to only fill it enough that you leave enough heat shrink that you can zip tie this end.
4) Then wait for it to cure.
5) Zip tie the open end that you filled through.
6) Shrink the heat shrink with a lighter, etc..
The idea is that you don't want any water or moisture to get in there otherwise the resistor and capacitor will corrode and you will get a nice SES light on your dash.
Thanks!!
Riley
thanks. I also wanted to check with you on the part numbers from radio shack
2761388-
2760148-
2721434
2711356-
these look right?? the capacitor I saw on the cougar webpage looked different. any other help putting one together would be helpful. I plan on getting the parts today. still a little unsure on how it goes together....
2761388-
2760148-
2721434
2711356-
these look right?? the capacitor I saw on the cougar webpage looked different. any other help putting one together would be helpful. I plan on getting the parts today. still a little unsure on how it goes together....
got all thous, but the capacitor looked diffrent.. do these look right to yall??
View attachment 388585
View attachment 388586
View attachment 388585
View attachment 388586
Skud
Member
As long as the capacitor is 1MF then it will work fine.. I don't think the type of capacitor matters (electrolytic, ceramic, tanatlum, etc..)
Those look good.. I like the terminal connectors you put on there.. Now just make sure it's all water-tight!!
Riley
Those look good.. I like the terminal connectors you put on there.. Now just make sure it's all water-tight!!
Riley
when i put it on my driver side, reason i originally made them, they didn't work
. i have an error that reads O2 sensor circuit malfuntion, but i do know that my O2 sensor itself is bad, caus previous owner. but why don't my mils work to get ride of my cel i have to get a programer every time my cel comes on and clear the code. i have bought an new O2 sensor. but waiting till i get my x-pipes for to put it on there. and then put the mil on that one. would that work??
. i have an error that reads O2 sensor circuit malfuntion, but i do know that my O2 sensor itself is bad, caus previous owner. but why don't my mils work to get ride of my cel i have to get a programer every time my cel comes on and clear the code. i have bought an new O2 sensor. but waiting till i get my x-pipes for to put it on there. and then put the mil on that one. would that work??do you by chance have a pic of the bottom side as well?? on the lower photo, the lower portion of the board, is that a wire that connects the two ends????
the small wire goes from one side to the other thats all connects the black wire all the way trough it. i thought that i would need one. could that be the problem? and as for the pic of the bottom side, i can get one here when i take one of the off soo i can tranfer them to my new x-pipes. but the bottom side i soderded the wires to the blue things. by the end of the week i should have to bottom pics.
Skud
Member
It looks like you have the capacitor on the wrong end. The capacitor should be on the car side. My mad mspaint skills will make it clear!!!
Also note that the blue wire is not "solid". It is spliced by the resistor. The black wire can either be tapped by the capacitor or like you did in your picture you can cut it and splice it with a solid piece of wire..
I think all your troubles are caused by the capacitor being on the wrong end.
Oh, and to clear your SES light you can unhook your battery and hit your brakes a couple of times to drain all the power out of the system. Then hook the battery back up and if you're successful your gauges should "sweep" all the way across when you turn the key on. This "sweeping" tells you the computer has been reset and it will clear the MIL (SES) light as well.
Thanks!!
Riley
Also note that the blue wire is not "solid". It is spliced by the resistor. The black wire can either be tapped by the capacitor or like you did in your picture you can cut it and splice it with a solid piece of wire..
I think all your troubles are caused by the capacitor being on the wrong end.
Oh, and to clear your SES light you can unhook your battery and hit your brakes a couple of times to drain all the power out of the system. Then hook the battery back up and if you're successful your gauges should "sweep" all the way across when you turn the key on. This "sweeping" tells you the computer has been reset and it will clear the MIL (SES) light as well.
Thanks!!
Riley
Attachments
ok soo wait i messed up, there is ony spoce to be one wire across it?? plz explain that better.. because what i understand from what you siad is the the small wire i have isn't spoce to be there, right?? just the capacitor from one side to the other. the black is stoped at the first side, and then reconected but the capacitor. the site i made it from wasn't ver explanitory. and i am borrowing my dads truck tuner to clear the code anytime it comes up. will that work when i get em running right??
ok, the way I understand it is 1) you cut the blue and black wire and put them into the end caps of the circuit board.2) you wire the resistor in in the board to the blue wire with the capacitor on the car side. My question is this -
what is that solid wire (size?) that connects the black to black???? or how can you tap the black wire with the capacitor???? I understand the resistor and wire loop to the back of the board and solder to the blue end caps. I just don't know where you get that bottom wire that connects the black to black?? is it just a standard 14ish gauge wire stripped from the housing??
what is that solid wire (size?) that connects the black to black???? or how can you tap the black wire with the capacitor???? I understand the resistor and wire loop to the back of the board and solder to the blue end caps. I just don't know where you get that bottom wire that connects the black to black?? is it just a standard 14ish gauge wire stripped from the housing??
Skud
Member
Yes,
You cut the blue and black wire. The blue wire from the one side is connected to the blue wire on the other side by the resistor.
The black wire from one side is connected to the other side by a piece of wire (any wire really. Like something as thick as the leads on the resistor or capacitor). Or you could not cut the black wire and strip off a tiny bit of insulation from it and just wrap the lead of the capacitor around that part you stripped off.
The capacitor "bridges" the blue and black wire, connecting them together. So, the ONLY way electricity can get from the blue to the black wire is THROUGH the capacitor.
But - you need to make sure the capacitor is on the side of the resistor that is closest to the car. Like in my awesome drawing..
Thanks!!
Riley
You cut the blue and black wire. The blue wire from the one side is connected to the blue wire on the other side by the resistor.
The black wire from one side is connected to the other side by a piece of wire (any wire really. Like something as thick as the leads on the resistor or capacitor). Or you could not cut the black wire and strip off a tiny bit of insulation from it and just wrap the lead of the capacitor around that part you stripped off.
The capacitor "bridges" the blue and black wire, connecting them together. So, the ONLY way electricity can get from the blue to the black wire is THROUGH the capacitor.
But - you need to make sure the capacitor is on the side of the resistor that is closest to the car. Like in my awesome drawing..
Thanks!!
Riley
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