Which is better 180* thermostat or the 160*
- Thread starter Andres2882
- Start date
My guys always suggest the 180, the 160 will nearly let your coolant flow constantly. Sometimes the 160 has an adverse affect on things since the coolant isn't in the radiator long enough to cool it off. Not to mention it can trigger the check engine light.
When the engine is run too cool the motor wears itself apart at a significantly faster rate. You want to keep the engine in the 180-195 range for best durability.
A 160 will not make your engine get hotter because its flowing faster. People always bitch because they say it doesnt sit in the radiator long enough, but its also not in the engine long enough either. You dont want to run a 160 because its too cool. It creates sludging in the engine and the motor doesnt burn efficiently. Stick with the 180 and youll be fine. Besides, 160's should only be used with a modded chip otherwise you can run into timing and or pinging problems or a check engine light.
Andres, i would wait to put that gauge in before deciding what stat to run.
i dont buy the 160 allowing coolant to flow too fast theory, either. the stat is still acting as a restrictor plate. an open stat is an open stat. when guys run 180 stats, the 195 guys dont say that the coolant will flow too fast. just does not make sense to me.
i dont buy the 160 allowing coolant to flow too fast theory, either. the stat is still acting as a restrictor plate. an open stat is an open stat. when guys run 180 stats, the 195 guys dont say that the coolant will flow too fast. just does not make sense to me.
Ray III
New Member
What exactly do you think is "hotter than normal"? As long as it stays under about 220 it isn't overheating; you can let it get up to 270 max with a stock engine but it runs like crap as it starts to get too hot.
Just FYI... The thermostat sets the MINIMUM operating temperature of the engine, not the 'normal'. The actual cooling capacity (ability) is a function of radiator size and efficiency and the various other parts of the cooling system (as they relate to flow, etc.) You also need to know that the EEC-IV computer keeps the fuel enrichment circuit energized untile engine coolant temp reaches 160*-165*. Anyway, just FYI.
NKau
Founding Member
Ray III said:
If you don't want your heads to warp or your block to crack you really shouldn't let you engine come CLOSE to 270 degrees. As soon as you start hitting 220-240, you should be off the road and shut down.
willys1
Active Member
NKau--good to see ya
Ray III
New Member
NKau said:
If you mean with ALUMINUM heads you are correct; I wouldn't see past 250 myself. Of course I would never use aluminum heads to begin with, but anyways. Your owner's manual will verify that 270 is the safe cut-off temp for the stock motor.
I just replaced my radiator and stat, went with a 180. It makes me nervous when I am in traffic with the air on and that needle gets pretty close to the last white mark on the temp gauge 
The guy at the parts place tried to sell me the 192, I figured the 180 might be best for the hot summers we have in TN.
The guy at the parts place tried to sell me the 192, I figured the 180 might be best for the hot summers we have in TN.
Legendary
Founding Member
I have a 160. My electric fan switch is set to 190 on/170 off. So my fan kicks in at 190 and cools it down (around 3 mintues) to 170 and the fan cuts off. When I'm on the freeway my fan is never on as long as traffic is moving. No matter how hot or how far the drive. I've drove a whole hour in the summer (cali) without the fan coming on and the temp stayed at 170-180. I love my cooling system. The warm ups are fast, the cool downs are even faster.
it really depends upon the condition of the system. when new, the cars ran at proper temps (per Ford) in idle tests in the desert. with nearly 20 years on the components, they may not be as efficient as they once were. most folks running cooler stats are doing it to bandaid other issues. if the system is not as efficient as it once was, a 160 stat might work. it really depends upon where the temp gauge (and i mean an aftermarket one) sits at in day to day driving, in all seasons (do you need heat in winter, etc).mooktank said:
a 160 might actually have the motor see temps of 190 in traffic in summer - not bad. it is a compromise/bandaid for the system, IMHO. if you find that you are running too cool, step up to a 180 (or a 170). just depends.
Ray, i dont pretend to know about the safe temps for iron heads. i use the puter cut offs (timing backed off at ~226*, a/c cut off at ~242*, IIRC) as guidelines. if one was running 270* water temps, the oil would easily be over 300* - not something i would want to do with dino oil for sure - and not really something i would want to subject synthetic to. not debating you (i said i dont know) but i am just pointing out other considerations.
good luck to all.
For some time, I ran my 302 with no thermostat (was having radiator problems). It cooled fine, but ran TOO cool. The thing took FOREVER to warm up and dropped down to 140-150 degrees going down the highway. That's too cool, but it never had any ill effects. I then installed a 180 in it and will be using a 180 on my 5.0 engine also. Stays steadily at right around 180 the whole time where it's supposed to be.
super302
I'd do anything for free Bapples
put in the 180*, it's around the ideal engine operating temp...just make sure it doesn't get to 210+, the water will boil away
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