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Which Vacuum Line is Broken?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zero Signal
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2005

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Apr 9, 2005
#1
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #1
My A/C only blows through the top vents. It just happed a couple days ago. WOuld anyone know which one it is or at least show me where to start looking? There's gotta be a way to find which line it is pretty quickly.
 

SN95StangMan

New Member
Jul 5, 2003
1,292
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0
Lynwood, CA
Apr 9, 2005
#2
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #2
Zero Signal said:
My A/C only blows through the top vents. It just happed a couple days ago. WOuld anyone know which one it is or at least show me where to start looking? There's gotta be a way to find which line it is pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

It is at the back of the firewall and runs from a vacum tree on the drivers side and across to the passenger side. It is a small line. You could probably fix it by putting some electrical tape.



 

94CobraPace

Founding Member
Aug 30, 2000
907
1
0
Houston, Tx.
Apr 9, 2005
#3
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #3
I have seen a couple of them break on the drivers side comming off the "T", 2nd pic. It is the 3rd one from the top.
Nice pics SN95StangMan
 

slvrbullit302

New Member
Jan 6, 2004
986
1
0
Alabama
Apr 9, 2005
#4
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #4
Mine broke on the cobra at the coupler shown in the first picture, it sits right behind the motor and gets a lot of heat from the motor and such and will be more likely to break.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Apr 9, 2005
#5
  • Apr 9, 2005
  • #5
Yep, it's the small one in the picture. I have broken mine now twice while working near it.

If it broke somewhere in the middle (on the plastic line, not at the connectors at the ends), take the vacuum line down to a hobby shop of Ace hardware, and get a piece of brass tubing that will fit snug inside the vacuum line. It will be a long piece, and you only need a couple inches to join the two sides. Then take it back to your car and join the two pieces back together with the tubing, and seal it with something like RTV on the ends.

I also used electrical tape and wrapped the whole section up and it works fine.

If you broke it at one of the connectors, you will need to figure out a way to get it to connect to the vacuum tree. That is where I broke it the second time. I couldn't get the broken piece out of the connector, so took a piece of rubber tubing that fit the vacuum tree portion, and RTV'ed the vacuum line side the hose. Ghetto, but it works.

Scott
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Apr 10, 2005
#6
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #6
Cool thanks guys! Thanks for the pics, always helps.

Scott, you gotta fill me in on what you've done to the car. Did you get the HCI installed and tuned yet? I'm finally 'graduating' and going full time in May, so I'll be saving for the KB
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Apr 10, 2005
#7
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #7


Yep, 3rd one down. It's busted right at the rubber piece.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Apr 10, 2005
#8
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #8
Zero Signal said:


Yep, 3rd one down. It's busted right at the rubber piece.
Click to expand...

Damn, that sucks. If the plastic line is still inside the connector, you can still use the brass tubing idea.

Good to see you are graduating. Was it worth it???? lol

I blew a HG about a month ago. I didn't know it until I checked my oil, and it looked like milk chocolate. Since I had the new parts already sitting in boxes waiting to be installed, I guess it was time to install them. But I didn't have the laptop/tweecer yet, so.........

I got everything installed, but I did my timing cover without any RTV, just like the factory did. Unfortunately it allowed coolant to drain into the oil pan(?????), so I had a serious problem. When I reinstalled the timing cover, I put too much RTV on it, and I had a bunch in the holes for the water pump bolts. When bolting the water pump to the timing cover, one bolt cross threaded and snapped off (my fault, should have stopped when I was having problems getting the bolt to fully tighten).

Drilled the bolt for a easy out, broke the easy out inside the broken bolt. Then I drilled the bolt out all the way and retapped the threads, unfortunately during the process I broke the tap off inside the block. So, can't drill that out, so I was about to dis-assemble the motor and take it to a machine shop to be laser cut out, when a friend recommended something.

They sell tap extractors!!! I didn't know that. Local mustang guy works for a machine shop and mentioned them to me. After 3 minutes it came out like butter. Finished tapping the hole, helicoiled it and was done.

Now I bought brand new bolts for the timing cover/water pump. So I reinstalled the timing cover, reinstalled the water pump, and on the last bolt (one on the water jacket, next to the one that was helicoiled), the brand new bolt went in by hand nice and easy, and when I went to torque it down, IT BROKE!!!!!

So that is where I am. My guess the bolt was defective because 18ft-lbs shoudln't be enough to break a bolt.

I am going to pull the timing cover AGAIN today, and see if I can get it out without drilling it. This sucks.

I had the car running, and it sounded absolutely sick!!! Just loosing a lot coolant.

No tune, just going to run it w/o one for the time being. Once this problem is solved, I will get a laptop w/ tweecer or the 04PMS so I can install the 30lb injectors. Will be nice to have the mustang back on the road, getting sick of driving a 84 Maxima with no rear shocks.
Scott
 

makdad

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
387
0
0
Maine
Apr 10, 2005
#9
  • Apr 10, 2005
  • #9
Would this only affect the AC?...I am putting a radio in my car and all of a sudden my AC and Heat only come out the defrost vents..but I was thinkin I just didnt hook up or it cam unplugged out the back of the controls on the dash..
 
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