Who's polished a trueflow pipe...and...
- Thread starter DMAN302
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DMAN302 said:
I polished a C&L true pipe. it took some time. i think it came out ok, not great. it does have lots of gritty bumps, although- i plan on re-sanding the entire pipe again. i used a dremel 80 grit roll to sand the entire pipe then started from there all the way to 320. actually-then used mothers aluminum polish on the dremel w/small buff and no white rouge. it still gleams and looks a million times better than powder coated. I can tell you this-i will be white rouging it this week, after i repolish my cobra upper with white rouge. I'll let you know how it comes.
Ant
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DMAN... I've never been a big fan of sanding as you well know and I'm not sure how rough the casting is on the C&L inlet pipe is, but I would consider this to be a fairly rough casting.
View attachment 427292
Anyway I sanded rough casting with 120 &150 grit sandpaper (nothing else) and then I move to a ventilated flap buffing wheel with emery compound on an electric drill and it ended up looking like this.
View attachment 427294
It’s far from being done no doubt, but for a rough sanding job before you actually start buffing and polishing a piece it’s a good start; I think.
It may or may not help you but I thought I’d throw my $.02 into the mix.
View attachment 427292
Anyway I sanded rough casting with 120 &150 grit sandpaper (nothing else) and then I move to a ventilated flap buffing wheel with emery compound on an electric drill and it ended up looking like this.
View attachment 427294
It’s far from being done no doubt, but for a rough sanding job before you actually start buffing and polishing a piece it’s a good start; I think.
It may or may not help you but I thought I’d throw my $.02 into the mix.
Sure does help Paul..my path to shine was going to be, hand sand quick 80 then step 120-180 then up as required. Much like you I don't see much after 320. I'm curious Paul as to the vented flap and emery, I was considering moving to a 2" quick lock med or fine scotch bright wheel (1/4 shank and a higher RPM grinder)..but the flap and emery is something I'm not familiar with. I assume this would not be the traditional abrasive bonded sandpaper type flap wheel (basically sandpaper strips bonded to a center spool)? Do you find the flap you mentioned gentle enough not to remove excessive amounts of material? My concearn is that the wheel would attempt to flatten the surface rather than assist in smoothing the circumferance.
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Derek
Basically the ventilated flap buffing is just another type of buffing wheel just like the Spiral Sewn, Loose Section, or Canton Flannel.
The big difference between the 4 different buffing wheels I’ve mention in reverse order are:
Canton Flannel: An extra soft wheel, recommended for all final coloring operations. This wheel will give you the most brilliant finish of all the buffs.
Loose Section: An extremely flexible wheel for color buffing. Gives very slight cutting action and is great for hard-to-reach surfaces.
Spiral Sewn: Well balanced long-wearing wheel for coarse buffing and cutting on all materials. Made from selected cotton material with continuous spiral sewing with 3/8" spacing.
Ventilated Flap:
View attachment 427186
For A Medium/Fast Cut On Contoured Hard or Soft Metals
The flap design of these Buffs keeps your work piece cooler, reducing the risk of warping. The flaps tend to "slap" the part, resulting in cutting action that is twice as fast as spiral sewn wheels.
Emery Compound: Contains Emery Grit - Very fast cutting action. For coarse buffing, removing scratches and burrs from iron and other hard metals.
So as you can see it’s not your traditional abrasive bonded sandpaper type flap wheel (basically sandpaper strips bonded to a center spool). It’s a buffing wheel that you actually apply emery compound to for fast cutting on different metals.
If you look in the pic I posted earlier you can see the Ventilated Flap on the drill.
By no means will the Ventilated Flap fatten the surface you’re working on unless you just want to do so. I’m one for saving any logos, #’s, or anything else I can versus sanding or buffing them off. To me that shows the difference between the guy who just wants to get things done, and the rest of us who are willing to spend the extra time to do it right.
I’m by no means saying it the right way or the only way to do a part, I just feel it speeds up the process of doing a part with minimal amount of sanding is all.
Basically the ventilated flap buffing is just another type of buffing wheel just like the Spiral Sewn, Loose Section, or Canton Flannel.
The big difference between the 4 different buffing wheels I’ve mention in reverse order are:
Canton Flannel: An extra soft wheel, recommended for all final coloring operations. This wheel will give you the most brilliant finish of all the buffs.
Loose Section: An extremely flexible wheel for color buffing. Gives very slight cutting action and is great for hard-to-reach surfaces.
Spiral Sewn: Well balanced long-wearing wheel for coarse buffing and cutting on all materials. Made from selected cotton material with continuous spiral sewing with 3/8" spacing.
Ventilated Flap:
View attachment 427186
For A Medium/Fast Cut On Contoured Hard or Soft Metals
The flap design of these Buffs keeps your work piece cooler, reducing the risk of warping. The flaps tend to "slap" the part, resulting in cutting action that is twice as fast as spiral sewn wheels.
Emery Compound: Contains Emery Grit - Very fast cutting action. For coarse buffing, removing scratches and burrs from iron and other hard metals.
So as you can see it’s not your traditional abrasive bonded sandpaper type flap wheel (basically sandpaper strips bonded to a center spool). It’s a buffing wheel that you actually apply emery compound to for fast cutting on different metals.
If you look in the pic I posted earlier you can see the Ventilated Flap on the drill.
By no means will the Ventilated Flap fatten the surface you’re working on unless you just want to do so. I’m one for saving any logos, #’s, or anything else I can versus sanding or buffing them off. To me that shows the difference between the guy who just wants to get things done, and the rest of us who are willing to spend the extra time to do it right.
I’m by no means saying it the right way or the only way to do a part, I just feel it speeds up the process of doing a part with minimal amount of sanding is all.
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9350coupe said:awesome work paul...............your the master
Thanks John.
I'm far from being a master though.
SO very helpfull..I have a few buff action wheels to add to my collection now. Thanks a always paul.
stang22
Active Member
ALMOST STOCK said:
Paul, does this mean you are not going to be "ALMOST STOCK" anymore?
What other mods you doing? I looked around to see if I could find the cover for that intake, but no luck. Did you find one?
Tim
Blk91stang
Member
caseywan said:
I have their polishing kit that comes with different grits including white rouge and tripoli. If I spent more time polishing, I'm sure its good. Otherwise I suck at it and dont have the patience to polish anything anymore.
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caseywan said:
Yes I’ve tried the eastwood greaseless compounds before, actually 2 or 3 times for what it’s worth, but I wouldn’t use them again.
It seems to cut ok, the problem is if you get into a really tight area and try to get into a specific spot you usually end up digging a rounded groove do to the compound on buffing wheel in front of the spot you were trying to get to. Which just makes another spot (rounded or not) that you’ll need to address later.
The greaseless compound probably works for some people but it didn’t work for is all I’m saying.
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Tim, it will always be ALMOST STOCK no matter what I change, not that’s there’s much left to change anymore .
No I haven’t found a GT40 intake cover yet, and thanks for looking for the cover for me I really appreciate your help.
.No I haven’t found a GT40 intake cover yet, and thanks for looking for the cover for me I really appreciate your help.
Hate to say it but I just let go of two of them 
And it looks like I won't be using greaseless compound any time soon either.
And it looks like I won't be using greaseless compound any time soon either.
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ryan218
In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
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