Why am I having so much trouble with these Eibach front springs? 2 hours to nowhere

[MustangLX-5.0]

How can I get this done? Does anyone live in the Lee County or Fort Myers Fl, area?

I don't understand why I am having so much trouble getting these damn springs in.I mean,they are over an inch shorter than stock springs.I took everyones advice and tried J'R's method where the control arm is un-bolted in the back and spindle and strut are attached.Being that the strut is attach to strut tower and then to the spindle.I position the floor jack on the underside back section of the spring perch.I set the spring in it's place correctly.Start lifting it up,get the top part of the spring correctly positioned in the upper perch.Keep lifting it up.The problem I get is I can't keep the control arm in the right spot.It keeps twisting and moving and then the bolt holes on the control arm don't line up with where they bolt up to.It ends up to far out.

I have let the jack down and re-adjusted this thing about 30 times.I tried using a very short piece of wood between the jack and the control arm...oh...first I thought it would make the spot but then the piece of wood was too long and started hitting some other body part.So I cut it down to size a little more.Tried again,the piece of wood split in half.

I tried using another smaller floor jack along with this one to prop up the end at the ball joint.Doesn't work because it just tilts the other end back down.The other problem is when i'm trying to jack it up from the underside of spring perch and it starts getting high up,the control arm is at such an angle that I am afraid the thing is going to slide off the jack and shoot the spring out.It looks at that point that it barely has anything to grab on to.

I don't know what you people are doing to get these springs in.Maybe none of you done springs on a convertible before.Something.It either starts jacking the car off the jack stands or the control arm keeps shifting out of place while jacking it.Oh and I forgot to mention I've tried 5 different spring compressors.To no avail because on 2 of them which are external clamp type compressors,the bolts that adjust these are too long and either run into the control arm or hit the upper area next to the spring.I sawzawed the bolts and still have the same issue.2 other ones are internal type deals where they go through the hole in the control arm.These won't fit through the hole completely.Even tried to put one piece of the tool inside the spring and then open it and attach it to the large bolt.Don't work because a metal rectangular block on the tool gets stuck in the hole.Don't ask about the 5th tool.It was too large.Something I had gotten at Harbor Freight Tools.And I had originally thought these were MacPherson type struts because the owners manual to my 92 notes it on one of the pages.On 2 of these tools,it shows it to be a Coil over type.These are not Coil overs.

This is made me so irritated.I have NEVER spent this much time and money on a stupid ass job.I've gotten to the point where I might just consider selling this car to someone because I just don't want to deal with it anymore.Nothing is working.I can't even move the car because of this.Stupid...This is the LAST time I even think about touching front springs.

Sorry for the long ass post.

 

[ebk06]

I had the same problem with the spring compressors. the "internal" compressor is the one you need its for springs the "external" is for struts and wont work for you. I had to cut the bolt a lot to get it to fit in the control arm. Even then I had to work with it once the springs was in place because theres not a lot of room to remove it. Basically I jacked up the control arm enough that the spring sat inside but made sure Ihad enough room where I could access the bolt for the compressor. It will still be hard and an extension that swivels was a must for my car or I would have never gotten in out. I take a lot of playing with the first time but the second one will be a lot easier for you. It also helps to have someone else assist you when jacking up the spring because mine kept wanting to slide back out and I had to use a bar to hold the spring in place while the arm was being jacked up.

 

[HISSIN50]

It's imperative that you use a nice big jack with a large pad on it. This holds the LCA nicely, and even allows you to move the LCA around a little on the saddle (though I dont recommend people do this).

Something to perhaps try. Remove the spring and jack the arm up like you are going to install the spring. Get it so the bolts would go in (this will be easy since there is no spring). Now lower the jack, taking great care to not move it once the saddle is down all the way. Put the spring in the perch and jack it back up. If the jack doesnt slide, you should be right back up in alignment with the holes in the K-member.

Some folks put a large piece of wood under the jack to keep it from moving also. I've never tried this though. In the above scenario, it might help with keeping hte jack from moving.

When it works, it works well. BTW, I have an 88 GT vert and I've had the OEM springs in and out a couple times. I have had Prokit springs in and out before as well.

Good luck.

 

[NKau]

No way would I try installing it that way. I actually left the control arm in, compressed the spring outside the car, and put heavy cable/clamps on in multiple positions to keep the spring compressed. Then I simply removed the compressor, slid the spring in, and released the clamps.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

MAC sells an alligator mouth style springs compressor. It is like 300+ dollars. I passed on that one to buy the 100 dollar one!! Works good on the rear, but NOT the front. The long bolt will not allow you to use it. I ended up jacking it up in there, and using a huge pry bar, while hiding behind my hoist post. I did not unbolt the a arm front the K frame.

I SHOULD HAVE SPENT THE EXTRA MONEY!!!!! I only thought I would use it for one use, but I have needed it like 4 times so far.

 

[Strype]

Dude...


if you don't use a "comealong" or a ratcheting strap you'll never get it done. Strap it onto the back of the control arm and put it on something stiff like the other control arm if it's still hooked up. That will keep it straight. Also try using two small jacks, and use a piece of wood to make the pad larger.

Be careful and use a ratchet strap and it'll work for ya. It's a tough job.

 

[kicker0]

I'm about to attempt to install some H&R Sport springs on my 93 LX. I don't have a spring compressor nor do I want to buy one so I'll be trying to install mine the same way. I'm sure it will be difficult but I do have a large service jack with a big lifting pad that will hopefully do the job. If you have luck with this install method please reply here and I'll do the same.

 

[tunedin302]

Spend $30 and get internal spring compressors. Makes the job much easier and you'll be behind the wheel much sooner.

 

[MustangOwner]

I installed the same pro kit as you are installing now. I got the front coil springs in by compressing the spring with a compressor then i put 10 hose clamps on it and took the compressors off. Then i simply put the spring in the perch and lifted up the a-arm and slide the spindle to strut bolts in. It was a piece of cake. Then just cut the hose clamps off and your done. Yes i know, your thinking OM MY GOD thats so dangerours. Well guess what, it never broke and it won't break with 10 hose clamps on it. Of course i wouldn't decide to play catch with it or something ha. There is nothing to worry about though, i've done it roughly 6 times that way and never had a problem. And no it was not my clever idea of doing it that way, it was our mechanic at the body shop who told us to do it that way. Glad he was around ha. Works awesome and saves a ton of work. Any who, alot of guys will say don't even try that but trust me, as long as you got 10 hose clamps on there your just fine, but to each is own. I suggest that way as it is a piece of cake....or you could get like 18 different kind of spring compressors and 7 hours later and 20 bucks in fuel later..... you might, just MIGHT, get the spring in that way as well!

 

[rd]

I have been there and done this.

I have installed one set of Ford B springs by jacking them in place. Painful, but it worked.

I finally built an internal compressor with two pieces of 1/2 in plate and a 5/8 threaded rod.

You can buy the style with hooks in parts stores, but you will have to grind the hooks smaller and, or make the holes in the control arms bigger to get the damn thing out. Been there done that.

The hose clamp technique is really quite a good way to do it on a one time basis.

You can compress the spring a bit under a truck step bumper or on a shop press if you have one.

 

[67coupe]

The internal compressor I rented from O'Reilly's will fit through the lower control arm hole. But, you will need about 2-3" of spacers btw the bolt head and the clamp (without the threads). This will allow you to compress the spring and not have the bolt interfere with the upper perch.

Also, I used a combination of the floor jack/control arm method and the internal spring compressor.

1) Put upper clamp (threaded one) in spring (make sure the clamp will slide through the hole in the control arm). Place spring in perch and compress spring.

2) Once you have compressed the spring a fair amount. Place the floor jack under the control arm and raise the assembly till you hear and see the chassis about to lift off the jack stand.

3) Compress spring more. At this point, the compressor will be easy to turn as the weight of the car is compressing the spring.

4) Repeat until the bolt holes line up.

Caution: Be sure the upper clamp (threaded one) is not too high on the coil spring. If it is too high, the coils will contact the clamps and make removing the upper clamp impossible.

Good luck. Don't give up. Just chalk it up to added experience.

 

[BYRDPE]

I got the front coil springs in by compressing the spring with a compressor then i put 10 hose clamps on it and took the compressors off. Then i simply put the spring in the perch and lifted up the a-arm and slide the spindle to strut bolts in. It was a piece of cake. Then just cut the hose clamps off and your done.

I did mine this way about 2 months ago...worked like a charm.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

I don't know what it is.It seems that nearly every method I've tried just doesn't seem to work and...like today got pissed off because some method of using a pry bar against the bottom of the spring and control arm didn't work.I took the springs to work and was thinking about using what they cal a strut tool in the shop meant for springs,then compress them and then chain them up and i'd take them home and do it that way.But one of the guys I was talking to told me it was a seriously bad idea because the chain could break while I was driving home and that wouldn't be good.

This same guy who does suspension work all the time told me the prybar method is what he uses all the time and he has no problem with it.Ok well obviously it doesn't work on these.I pulled a muscle in my shoulder just trying to press the spring up enough to get it to catch.I fought a losing battle because the way this worked was as good as trying to lift both of your legs off the ground at the same time.It just doesn't work.The only surface to wedge a bar against near the lower side if the spring would be the hole in the control arm.And you just can't lift something into a surface they you are prying against when it is on a hinge type deal.

I went golfing with my 24" breaker bar and 3 aerosol cans lying around.I'm just pissed.I'm plain f'n fed up with this mess.I spent all this damn green on this car because I really wanted to get it fixed up.And it has been nothing but botched for nearly a year.And now the paint looks like crap because good ol Florida sun ate it up.We all have plans for our cars.I have (or had) plans for this one.I get so tired of driving my 7 year owned V6 around.Ok well enough about that V6 and rambling mess...

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.I think I'm going to try the clamp method.Right now,the only jacks that I have are 2 floor jacks.One is an SUV type with high lift and the other is a small 2 1/4 ton but both have the small lift pad.I just spent 60 bucks on the SUV one 3 months ago because the seal went bad on one I bought a year earlier.Can't really afford to spend $ close to 200 bucks on the large pad type.Think I allready spent enough on tools....just to get the spring in.And as for those clamps,91fox...did you overlap any of the clamps or di you just chain link them all?

And Hissin...I've done the thing where you line the bolt holes on the rear of the control arm then lower the jack then insert spring and raise again.Thing is,shortly after the spring hits the upper perch and you are compressing it,the control arm keeps tilting,moving out of place and I keep fighting to hold the damn thing while I jack it up.It ends up getting to where I have to let it back down and reset it a different way because it gets to hard to keep it from going where it was supposed to go.And there is no place to put some piece of pipe or bar to keep the thing from moving.

I know,to many of you this mess must seem ridiculous.I really don't know.I didn't know I would be beating myself over a damn spring for months.

 

[the pony boy]

i used the inside compressor and we shortened the rod in it to make it easier.if you can just take a couple days off from wrenching on it to let your knuckles rest and go at it when ure not boiling over.i knoew it sucks but when ure done u can look back and laugh. phil