Wild hare idea 1980 for drag/toy car

[7991LXnSHO]

This morning I saw a 1980 hatchback Mustang, interior useable as is, probably a 4 cyl, for a reasonable price. I will have to see it without the frost to make sure what shape the paint and under carraige are in for sure, but the body looks really good. Just a little surface rust on lower rear passenger fender lip from gravel. I am thinking about putting a 351 based stroker block in it, leaving it whatever color of bronze/ brown it is, good mufflers, brakes, and an 8.8 (or bigger) rear end. Add subframe connectors and rear control arms too, and at least 15" wheels for sticky tires. Who would think a stock looking, 4 cyl., 4 eyes would fly?

Questions 1. I do not know the best auto tranny that will fit in a non-computer controled Fox, but I doubt an AOD would take it. So what auto would go behind the 351 based stroker? I know about the manual options if it has a pedal.

2. This would be a big money pit and I should keep dreaming, right?

 

[srtthis]

1.. C4
2.. not really... used parts can be found and a junk yard stroker can be done pretty cheap. if you buy all new rods pistons crank and all that you might as well build a big stroker

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Is any overdrive auto tranny worth the money and making fit?

 

[srtthis]

lentech 4R70 might be an option

 

[mob]

Money put=YES

 

[StreetsideStig]

I would like to offer my support to this project. Er...my emotional support.

 

[90lxcoupe]

Be a man and put a 5 speed in it. Automatics are for girls

 

[StreetsideStig]

Be a man and put a 5 speed in it. Automatics are for girls

I think he just wants to use it for drag racing...

 

[90lxcoupe]

I think he just wants to use it for drag racing...

oh in that case...

Be a man and put a 5 speed in it. Automatics are for girls

 

[A5literMan]

Perfect coyote 5.0 candidate

 

[88LX5.Oh]

OR he could be SMART and stick with the auto for consistency at the track. Plus after the race you can't bull sh*t anyone and say "oh I lost because I missed a shift"

C4 would be a good option. You can get hardened 6 pin planetaries for 'em and they can handle quite a lot. You can also build AOD's up pretty well. I personally like AOD's to be honest. Or do was SRT said and get a 4R70W. I'd go with a manual valve body on the 4R for simplicity's sake.

 

[Bullitt347]

Both the AOD and the 4R70W can be built to take over 1000 hp. A C-4 can be built to take a lot, but you will rebuild it more often. My friend got over 3 years of drag duty out of an AOD while putting down about 1000 wheel hp. Then 3rd gear went away. They guy who built the trans had never seen 3rd gear go out on one of his builds, so he is warrantying the rebuild. Not to bad of customer services after 3 years of abuse. I am going with the 4R70W in my drag build up due to the lock up converter that can be used in high gear.

 

[rd]

Yep, good choice. The 80 is probably very light, may have the smallest brakes ever on a fox, alum bumpers, etc.

My 82 is made out of 79, 80 and 82 parts. If it is a straight six you will need to change the k member.

 

[90lxcoupe]

OR he could be SMART and stick with the auto for consistency at the track. Plus after the race you can't bull sh*t anyone and say "oh I lost because I missed a shift"

BORING. Stick shifted cars can be plenty consistent and they are about ten times the fun

 

[StreetsideStig]

BORING. Stick shifted cars can be plenty consistent and they are about ten times the fun

I'd say so for the track or the street about 96% of the time. But drag racing is more about engineering and reaction time.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Yes, I am thinking of a drag toy, and the 5 speed I would need with slicks is not cheap. The car is already an auto. Not a big cost to change, but I would leave the stick in my daily/weekend fun car. I know about how much a c6 was for a 460 truck, so the cost of a good c4 should not be so bad.
How about fuel lines? Use the stock line for return and run 3/8 hardline and a Holley pump near the tank for the carb? A better radiator, and what other basics would be needed?

 

[srtthis]

good converter... THIS IS AS IMPORTANT AS A GOOD CAM!
good shock and sping combo
good control arms
good rear set up. 9"? 8.8 with bolt on ends? spool? big gears and axles are a must
6 point roll bar
harness
gauges
shifter
seats?

 

[7991LXnSHO]

90lxcoupe said: ↑

BORING.​

I was watching Hot Rod TV's drag week show. The winning car did not pop wheelies or dig into the driver's side tire. It did not even hardly lift the front wheels. It just leaned back a little and just WENT. How boring is that? 7 seconds flat in the quarter mile boring. I want that kind of set up, but without the Lenco's levers. (Spoiler - sorry if you have not seen it.) I doubt I'd ever win drag week at that rate, but I like the lack of drama.​

​

My good weather driver is no where near that fast or boring! Once you hit 200o RPM in first gear, it gets squirrely pretty fast on through the first three gears. For the G W Driver, sticky tires (instead of the speed rated radials), actually installing the subframe connectors that are in the box and some suspension arms are in the works.​

​

In the brown 1980 toy, I'd leave the factory looking buckets as long as possible and hide the cage as much as possible for the "it's not that fast" factor. This is looking more possible all the time. (A double hump crossmember was not mentioned yet, but not a big deal.)​

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When replacing the 7.5" with a 9" or 8.8" - which would be cheaper and more effective at a 408 c i level? I know either could be built to be broken or be built to last.​

 

[90lxcoupe]

I wasnt aware you were building a seven second car. anything with an automatic that isnt a single digit car is going to be a little boring on a pass IMO.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

90 LX Coupe, Either you jest or you missed my point - Sometimes a little boring is good. I would like that kind of suspension reaction if it's in the 12's or 6's. Leaving rubber on all parts of the lane is too interesting for me. If I had a calm suspension set up, I suppose I could have time to have fun shifting something faster than my G W Driver. Steering with only two or three wheels on the pavement is a challenge that only looks impressive. Missing a shift, hitting the wall, or blowing a clutch band would all put a damper on my day.

I got to ride in a big block Olds before wheelie bars were installed. It was not boring when we drug, not just scraped, the rear bumper on that cir. '70 Cutlass with it's auto transmission. It left big, long scrape marks on the pavement, and we'll not discuss the BVD's.

So what's your preference for a manual tranny - a Tremec, and which model? If so, what's the right way to break it in to get it shifting smoolthy as possible? I am also thinking ahead to when I blow up the T-5 in my G W Driver.