Wire tuck question

[gtsn95]

What gauge wire to extend MAF and headlight wires? And pretty much rest of wires in engine bay that are connected to engine harness?

 

[Monsterbishi]

This won't be the answer you're looking for, but you just need to extend them using the same gauge as what is fitted.

Keep an eye out for any wiring that may be shielded cable, and don't solder anything - crimp.

 

[General karthief]

Why do you say crimp and not solder?
i made an extension for my air temp sensor, I soldered spades to one end of a sensor connector that matched the sensor with the length of wires I needed. Plugged the spades into the connector on my wire harness and covered it with that plastic tubing like stock, then when I changed manifolds with the sensor in the stock location I removed the extension.
I like to make things that look like it belongs there, even the dirt and crud looks like it belongs there!

 

[Monsterbishi]

Solder lacks flexibility and durability in hot environments - for a immobilised cable it's fine but when it's going to be almost constantly moving and heated/cooled you're much better off crimping.

Have a look at most factory harnesses - even for shielded cables they crimp rather than solder.

 

[General karthief]

Ok, I get it, but on the other hand those are machine crimps, I've found that over time hand crimped connectors get cruddy and lose connectivity unless properly covered in shrink wrap, so I think both of us are right.
your likely more right than me
i'm more likely full of poo, of course I am dealing with 20 yr old crimped connections for the add on hydro pump on the 'dump truck'.

 

[Monsterbishi]

Not all crimpers are equal, I used to solder, tape then heatshrink everything until the day I found strands of wire broken right up by some of the joins in a harness that I'd built some years prior. Decent roll and hex crimpers change the way you look at wiring work - no more splashes of solder, or running out of solder an hour after the shops have shut!

 

[jozsefsz]

I'll have to disagree. With the correct solder (that doesn't corrode your wires) properly applied, it's virtually indestructable.
While a good quality crimping tool can create more durable connections than those crappy pliers I have, it's not a good idea when dealing with sensitive circuits (i.e. your computer harness, o2 sensors, ABS or Airbag stuff) where the connectors introduce resistance that can negatively impact the accuracy of your readings.
Solder almost always ftw. Except in the case of super big-ass wires, then crimps are superior.

 

[General karthief]

If ya'll don't mind I'll keep soldering my crap, I've got'n pretty good at it, makes me feel 'cool'

 

[Monsterbishi]

Think of it this way, the pin in the harness at the eec end is crimped on, the harness pins on both sides of the joint connector are crimped on, the plugs for your injectors, coils, sensors, etc are all crimped on.

From Toyota Corollas to Bugatti Veyrons - everything is crimped.

 

[General karthief]

I understand your point, but they are not hand crimped, and most of us do not have or even know what a good hand crimper looks like if there is such a thing, they are machine crimped,

 

[jozsefsz]

And... the sensors and circuits are calibrated with the factory crimped-on connectors in mind. Just ask my @#$(q GM with the periodic airbag light how the tiniest amount of corrosion from humidity on the crimped terminals under the seats causes codes to be thrown. Or how I have to unplug and plug back in the BCM harness about once a year to get it to stop losing connection to the PCM because of minute changes in resistance. And their TSBs for both require soldering the replacement pigtail (if needed) in. Not to mention how unshielded crimped terminals mess with CAN-BUS computerized bullcrap on modern cars. Modern cars, from Toyota Corollas to Bugatti Veyrons, are constructed to be as cheap and easy to assemble as possible. And f-you as the consumer or the mechanic who has to diagnose their bull 20 years later.

To each their own, crimp away or solder away. Properly done both will be just fine on a 90's Mustang of that I'm certain.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

I tucked just about everything into my fenders and didn't have to extend the MAF wiring. It comes pretty long from the factory. Maybe I just don't know where your MAF is going.

I'm also a big solder guy, never liked crimping wires especially in the engine bay. I can solder well then heat shrink some protectors on and to me it just looks more professional. I have OCD so that could be it too.

 

[a91what]

I usually go one step further in the stupid direction, I do control work for a living and most of the touchy stuff requires that you crimp on a bare connector or splice then solder that connection to the wire and finally heat shrink over the whole mess.

there i solved the crimp vs solder debate... just do both.