would you recommend doing the t5 swap now?? or do it with the motor???

[Foxfan88]

ok i can take my car to votech school. we have lifts, tranny jacks and all the tools i need to make it pretty easy... rather than doing it at home.


but i dont want to ruin the big "gain" when i get the motor done.

but also it will eliminate possible problems. Can get the t5 setup running good, instead of possibly having it mess up when i am breaking in the motor or something.

we pull trannies all the time so as far as pulling the AOD and switching over to the t5 will be a sinch.... i am just afraid of the pedal swap.

what exactly is so hard about the pedals? can someone go into detail about the pedals???
also i keep forgeting the cutting of the crossmember, what do i use to cut it??

so would you say do it there and get it over with. then i can start dumping all my cash into the motor....

or should i wait.. what i am trying to do now is save cash to get the motor and the t5 swap done pretty quickly by next spring... if i get the t5 swap done now, all i will need it the clutch kit pretty much to get it done...

the car will be much faster and should keep me satisfied and i can start saving lots of cash longer to make the motor even better...

 

[Foxfan88]

also where can i get the starter plate for a t5??thing that goes b/w motor and bellhousing

 

[fox racer]

Do the swap now. once i had everything off i put EVERYTHING in (t-5 stuff) in about a day. the next day i did the pedals (well i was busy, i spent about 20 min everyday for a couple days.. WRONG. just put some time on the side and do the damn things.) trust me, do the swap, get used to stick, then when you get your new motor youll be acclimated to stick and able to ahndle the power of the new motor.
getting the AOD Pedals out is cake. to get the 5 speed pedals in, drop the steering column (or remover it if you feel necesarry, but you definitely dont have to) and move the seat all the way back (again you can remove the seat if you want room, but totally uinnecessary).just wiggle it up there, get the pedals over the column then twist it into place kind of (start off sideways to get the pedals over the column then twist it straight up into the correct position. there is a little stud that bolts to the top of the bracket that you can remove (not all of it, leave room for a nut, its debated if its needed or not, i trimmed it and still used it.) als, loosen the stock proportioning valve from the fenderwell so you can pull the master cyl & brake booster foreward. you do not have to disconnect and brake lines, just pull everyhitng foreward. this one step is the reason i got my pedals in.
The difficult thing about the pedals is the fact that the brake booster studs (4) are horizontal while the pedal mount studs (also the stud that hold up the column) are vertical.if you can imagine this youll understand why its slightly difficult and why moving the brake booster foreward.
obviously youdotn have to do it my way, i kno people that dont touch the brake booster, leave the column in (like me) and leave the seats in (like me) i just felt it MUCH easier my way (moving the booster slightly) .if you need help dont hesitate to post, or pm me if you want to.

 

[Foxfan88]

thanks man
also do i NEED the starter index plate???

 

[fox racer]

thanks man
also do i NEED the starter index plate???

id highly suggest it. otherwise your flywheel is revealed to the open road... you never kno.wherever you get a bellhousing from get that plate too.

too bad your that far away from em otherwise id come over and we could knock it out in a day or two... youd buy the pizza of course tho.

 

[timewarped1972]

while i haven't dont the rest of it yet, i did go ahead and install my pedal assembly, it is a pain....i had some different issues than the above poster so i'll share those with you.
first, i had to remove the seat because with it in the car the steering whell would hit the seat when i lowered it, so i removed the seat to allow the steering column to drop more......again, your experience may be different.....
as for getting the old ones in and out, my biggest problem was, under the dash on the left side there is a black plastic box of some kind, its bolted to a thin metal support, that was in the way of me getting the pedal assembly in there side ways to twist it in, and or out....again your experience may be different..
also......the stud the previouse poster mentioned.....its just under the dash there, you'll see it when your taking the old one out........my original pedal assemble had a nice size slot for that stud to go through, the pedal assembly i was installing had i cant recall it was either just a hole, or a much smaller slot......and ofcourse i didnt notice that untill i got it in there......so when you remove your old assembly, look at that slot or hole and make sure their the same.....you can always trim it bigger.it helps when re installing it, you'll see why...lol..
your also supposed to re route the speedometer cable, they tell you to remove or pull the instrument cluster forward to get the cable off of the speedometer........i have small hands and not huge arms so i was able to snake my hand up in there and release the cable from the speedo......theres a tab on it that you push in and then wiggle it off.......
i also left my clutch pedal off the assembly for now.....it just un bolts from the shaft......it may or may not give you more wiggle room with the pedal off.......
anyway, that was my experience.....it's a pain, it just takes alot of wiggling and such......take your time, if you get frustrated take a break for a few minutes....i know i had too.....lol.
oh yeah one more thing......my sub frame connectors are welded in but also bolt to the seat support under the car........if you have sub frames dont forget to remove the nutt holding the sub fram on or when you try to loosen the seat bolt from in the car it wont budge......i refuse to tell you how i know this..........lol make sure after you do it you post back in i'd like to know how it went.....
as for that starter index plate, i got tired of trying to hunt one down so i bought a new one from 5.0 resto....50 bucks.....but oh well.........

 

[fox racer]

i had that same problem with that little box time warped was talking about, i just forced it out of my way. i didnt have to reroute my speedo because my car was originally a 4cyl 5 speed, and was converted to AOD 5.0 so he just left the speedo cable where it was and left a hole in the firewall where the clutch cable goes (but he put AOD pedals in.. wierd?)

 

[timewarped1972]

lmao.........why in gods name anyone would put the aod pedals back in......dang.....oh well, maybe it was karma, you were destined to do a pedal swap!!!!!!

 

[fox racer]

lmao.........why in gods name anyone would put the aod pedals back in......dang.....oh well, maybe it was karma, you were destined to do a pedal swap!!!!!!

the guy that did it, is absolutley nuts with mustangs to. hes like the pedal swap takes 20 min-half hour on a bad day. i was like yea.. OK... lets just say he did it in front of my eyes... and he made it look so damn EASY. lol

 

[timewarped1972]

i guess if it was that easy he just wanted his pedals back........i guess it's like anything else, you do it enough times.practice makes perfect!

 

[niklid05]

oldish thread and sorry for highjacking... but I have a few questions.

-how much did you guys spend on your swap? Could I complete it with ~$1,000?

-Should I purchase an adjustable clutch cable quadrent or just use an OE one?

-Is there any other cars I can get a clutch pedal assembly out of that would work with the mustang? ie. thunderbird, capri?
-If anyone has a clutch pedal assembly that they dont need could you possibly sell it to me?

I cant think of anything else right now. If you guys have any other info that isnt here that i might need to know let me hear it. Thanks.
/endthreadhighjack