Shifter is locked untill key is turned - Help!

[Igofaster13]

Ok, I am working on my girls 95 gt. The car had issues with starting in park, and recently got worse, it would lock the gear shifter untill the key is turned to start the engine (while running).

So I changed out the TR sensor or called MLPS, (Neutral saftey switch I guess) with a brand new FORD sensor. Aligned the sensor right today, And it starts now in park great, but will not shift untill you turn the key to crank the engine.

What is locking the shifter?

What controls the shifter locking?

HELP!

Thanks

 

[trav_19]

seems like a issue with the button on the shifter not engauging to release the shifter....but it makes no sense that if you crank the key again it allows you to then shift....

 

[gcomfx.com]

Ignition switch? I've replaced mine already. When you turn the key it pushes a rod and makes new electronic connections. Might be worth a shot. It's pretty easy to swap out. If it doesn't fix it, take the new back to the parts store.

 

[Igofaster13]

Ignition switch? I've replaced mine already. When you turn the key it pushes a rod and makes new electronic connections. Might be worth a shot. It's pretty easy to swap out. If it doesn't fix it, take the new back to the parts store.

Ok, how do yu replace the Ignition switch?

The new part came right from a ford dealer, I doubt its a bad part.

 

[Igofaster13]

And the ignition key tumbler was replaced a year or so ago.

 

[gcomfx.com]

It's under the steering column. Just remove the panel, metal shield, then it's a few bolts for the ignition switch. It's basically a 4" long white box. I believe the harness has a bolt that holds it in. 15 minute job tops.

Mine went bad, basically over the years it wore down the metal rod, and I bottomed out the key. I couldn't turn the key any further to make it push the rod to hit the starter electrical connection.

Just as a heads up. It took TWO tries. The brand new replacement was bad. Took it back, exchanged it, and that one has worked fine ever since. New parts don't ALWAYS mean GOOD parts.

 

[Igofaster13]

It's under the steering column. Just remove the panel, metal shield, then it's a few bolts for the ignition switch. It's basically a 4" long white box. I believe the harness has a bolt that holds it in. 15 minute job tops.

Mine went bad, basically over the years it wore down the metal rod, and I bottomed out the key. I couldn't turn the key any further to make it push the rod to hit the starter electrical connection.

Just as a heads up. It took TWO tries. The brand new replacement was bad. Took it back, exchanged it, and that one has worked fine ever since. New parts don't ALWAYS mean GOOD parts.

I know new parts are not allways good. I have had bad new parts before, But quality parts usally are not bad. Going to Napa to get the switch.

 

[Igofaster13]

I just got a new Wells ignition switch, and installed it with no luck. Still locked in park untill key is turned.

I checked the MLPS and it is perfectly dialed in.

What do I replace next?

Thanks

 

[Igofaster13]

I think it is the Shift interlock solenoid. Here is what I have to do..................



Notes

Remove lefthand lower instrument panel trim and steering column lower shroud.
Remove steering column retaining nuts, then lower column to floor.
Remove cable retaining clip, then disconnect electrical connector at actuator.
Remove actuator retaining screws, then actuator from steering column.
Reverse procedure to install. Torque steering column retaining nuts to 15-24 ft lb and cable retaining screws at steering column and at shifter to 10-13 in lb.
Test cable for proper operation, ignition key should only be removable with shift lever in PARK. Shifter should be locked in PARK with ignition key removed, or with key in ON position and brake not applied. Shifter should release when brakes are applied.

 

[droptopford 5 0]

ya, i would put my money on that... when i did the aod-e t-5 swap i followed a cable from the shifter that led to the steering column near the the ignition. i remember messing with it just to see how it worked and remember just not wanting to take the column further apart so i just stuffed the loose end in the dash. i figured it allowed me to switch back to the auto if anything happened while i still had it kickin, and the t-5 was firt in the car. good luck man, its a strange set-up ford's running in there. i think its basically what allows the car to stay in park when its not running, even if the brake is depressed.

 

[DJiCE]

might be worth a shot since you did install the MLPS sensor ..

CHECK THE CABLE ATTACH TO THE LEVER !!! IF you over tighten it will not allow the car to crank>>

How do I know Because I was ajusting mine and remove allot of slack off the cable and then when I try to start the car I wouldn't start.

I reajusted it a bit and now sometimes times it will not start sometimes will when turning the key..

Kinda of cool since now I has another Anti-theft device.. I just have to pull the shifter forward slight tap for it to start up..

Ever since I ajusted the cable my tranny has worked great no more kicking into nuetral...

 

[Igofaster13]

Ok, I got the Cable and solenoid from Ford for $66.71. I will be installing it tomorrow and will let you guys know.

Thanks

 

[urban96]

for kicks, have you checked your fuses to make sure none are blown? the one for my brakes or brake lights (forget what its called now) blew once and i had those troubles

 

[Dan95-5.0]

i know what your problem is.

its the interlock cable. i'm sure of it.

when i installed my hammer shifter, theres a cable that attached to my shifter that comes from the dash. the purpose of the cable is to prevent you from shifting unless the key is turned to the on position. i had problems that would allow me to shift no matter what position the key was in. after elongating the bolt hole for the cable, it was too tight and i couldnt shift it. after i backed it off a bit, it was perfect

take a look at the cable and see what its doing.

keep us posted.

 

[Igofaster13]

It turned out to be the $10 brake switch.

 

[HISSIN50]

It turned out to be the $10 brake switch.

The function of the BOO and the car's symptoms don't match up. I only say this in case the issue comes back (I HATE it when that happens).

I was expecting a shift interlock linkage issue myself.

Let's hope it stays workin good for ya.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Wow... interesting.

Glad it's fixed though!