64-66 turbo mustang headers

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
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San Diego
I finally found and got a car to my house to start this. The first header is done. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be over all. But it over was a pain. I did one tube over 4 times. Getting it from point A to B was easy. Getting it there with enough room for another tube to go behind it was the hard part.Believe it or not I haven't had to cuss yet. I have stared at the car doing nothing going on about 7 hrs now though.
So here's the plan so far. No hole in the fender required, but can cut on for cold air. Can run a sway bar. You can run AC OR PS, not both. AC should fit just fine without any mods. PS pump would have to move up and probably do custom lines. Probably something like the lines on a 5.0 bracket. Rack and pinion with also not be a problem,as well as any stick cars even with Z-bars.
Here are the requirements.
Battery needs to be moved
Cross flow radiator is needed
Alt needs to be mounted with pivot point in head.(Have only seen a few with in mounted differently)
The nice part is that most guys looking something like this already have all this.
64 and 65 guys, you have to switch to the stronger 66 and up motor mounts.
Any ideas, questions, suggestions ?




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Hells yea man, great job. Thanks for all of your hard work. I'm really likeing the sound of keeping the sway bar. You'll be selling these headers? It'll be a long time before I can start on something like a turbocharger, but good to know the parts are there.
 
Will the be available for all to buy?
Of course. I couldn't afford to have it any other way.:lol: I've got 2 kits basically sold right now. I may do a small group buy with the mods OK to help some people get them cheaper and get these out there.

They come in from the bottom right now Mario. At worst may have to tilt the motor. I can squeeze them in, but don't have any head bolts in right now.

The only potential problem I can see with these headers is they are so tight in there they are close all the way around. I've seen a difference in some cars as much as 1/4 inch of where the motor sits left to right in the engine bay.

Thanx for the kudos guys. I've got a little done on the crossover. Some pics hopefully in a few days. I gotta pull a motor and tear it down and rebuild in 12 days.
 
:nice: I've been waiting for a '64-'66 kit!

I am assuming that you're only going to be selling the headers, but not the cold side or turbo. How much do you estimate they will cost?

Also, you didn't mention, but this would make an electric fan necessary right?

Thanks, and keep up the good work. I'm stoked.

-Duke
 
I've been watching for an update. I think the option to cut a hole or run an under hood fiter will make it more attractive to people, obviously not the best design for max power but those that don't care can use a pipe and filter to outside. Is it still driver's side and for blow through carb or are there options for EFI?
 
Duke, I can sell it all. I just normally sell the exhaust. I'm the boogey man on the internet right now and nobody knows me. It's hard to get someone to pay for a full kit over the internet.
The it will be a little more expensive then the last because there are going to be more bends in the kit. And right now I'm not sure how many tubes I'll have to make for the headers. If I can't keep the bends "X" amount apart, the machine can't bend it all one piece. So it will take more time and material for me to make. I want to make it as affordable as I can. I can't say exactly yet, but I really want it under 1400. But steel keeps going up, or at least that's what I'm told. :mad:
For EFI it looks like the plenum would have to be flipped. The exhaust will run right where the inlet for the plenum would run. Turbo's gonna go where the battery is.
 
My friends keep giving me crap about wanting to put a turbo on the stang, "Why would you do that when you can just slap a blower on for the same cost?"

Have you driven/riden in each kind and what's the benefits of one over the other?
I still want to turbo the Mistress though. Good work on those headers, how will the 2 converge? how is it routed?
 
My friends keep giving me crap about wanting to put a turbo on the stang, "Why would you do that when you can just slap a blower on for the same cost?"

Have you driven/riden in each kind and what's the benefits of one over the other?
I still want to turbo the Mistress though. Good work on those headers, how will the 2 converge? how is it routed?
blowers take power to make power and less efficient.
 
You run lower gears with a turbo also. think of 3.50's for a turbo, as you would 4.11's for every other car. No boost while just cruising. Inlet temps are lower for the same boost level, and just require less HP to drive. Lets your friends put the blower on and see who goes faster and gets more looks at the shows. Rich just brought his to a show and had a crowd the instant he opened the hood.Old men scratching their heads and younger people double taking to see if it is really a turbo under the hood.
The two pipes should meet low and in front of the Alt. Driver side header dumps before the sway bar, and the other probably after it.
 
I was thinking something very similar to that. My motor blew up 2 weeks ago and I've spent many hours in the engine bay the last week cleaning etc. and how I could go turbo. Seemed to make the most sense with the bump for the battery giving more room on that side of the car to locate the turbo there. Another nice thing is that if you put a hole on that side you can somewhat hide it with the battery in the stock location(but why would you want to take it off:shrug: ). What size down pipe and is it one piece to the firewall. It would be nice for that pipe to have a flange which will let you remove it to access plugs/valves if it is really tight there. Think plug wires will be an issue? Stock type radiator?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm just whipping out thoughts/questions. I'll be watching and also know of another car that could test fit things if needed. Keep us posted:nice:
 
I wouldn't mind helping you to test fit the kit on my 65 GT. I'm in Oceanside, where in SD are you 10Sec?
About 45 mins south of you in Spring Valley/ La Mesa.
Dragtop, it's going to have another V-band so you can drop the DP for easy plug access. One of the reasons the kit will be a little more. Those things aren't cheap. It'll be a 3in, with room for 4in. There is a ton more room in the battery area in these than 67-up. Plan is to have the filter inside, or cut the hole where the batttery was and run it down.
Plug wires shouldn't be a problem. Should have enough room to run a wide aftermarket radiator. Any more ? Don't mind. Gets me thinking.
 
The radiator has to be a crossflow, with the bottom on the driver side. It's still gonna be a pain. The hose, I don't know. I usually just walk behind the counter at an auto parts store until I find one.
Intercoolers will fit much easier on these cars, but look like hood pins are a must to run one. I need to get farther along for intercoolers. I need to put on fender and all that. I got the car for free, but had to take all that off. The owner wanted it, and wanted too much for me to keep it.But, once I do get one it won't be much get one in there. Depend on the type of cooler I can get in there, AC with one might be a pain.I'm actually gonna take my intercooler of and put an injection kit on it.