Cutting stock springs?

[fox racer]

I need a temporary replacement front spring (selling the drag springs, need something to hold me over until I get aftermarket springs) and all I have is the stockers. I HATE the 4x4 stance with them so I want to cut them (Plus I'm going to install an IRS, so I have 04 Cobra rear springs eventually going in the back, so I'm assuming they won't be that high), but I don't know by how much. What will a 1/4 coil drop it? 1/2? 3/4? 1 full coil? any ideas?

 

[jrichker]

Cutting the springs will ruin them and ruin the ride characteristics. Plus when springs are cut, the taper on the last turn of the spring is gone/damaged and the springs do not sit straight.

 

[ShortThrow50]

I have frpp "C" springs and the instructions say to cut them if not happy with desired ride height. My rear was way too high so I yanked them. I cut one full coil of and it gave me a 1 inch lower of a drop. Here is where I cut.

 

[SuperStang83]

I have cut stock springs before, and have even seen the same advice in our beloved magazines. If you don't have the money and all you are looking for is a better stance, then why not. Don't expect a nice cushy ride though if you go to low.

 

[ninety15.0]

Note what Jrichker said about the ground ends. Notice how that picture shows the last coil is ground flush with the previous one so it makes a flat surface. Not only is this important in how the spring sits in the perch. But without a grounded end...you are effectively changes the number of active coils. I believe squared and ground end (stock)...the number of active coils is the number of total coils -2....one on either end.

So you just need to realize this WILL impact how the spring performs...and if they are the linear rate stock springs...it probably wont matter much...but just be aware of that fact!

With that said...go fo it!

 

[fox racer]

I'm only cutting the front springs, why don't I just cut the bottom of the spring?

 

[svtpower]

you will be fine

The only time you will ruin your springs is:
1) if you cut too much off

2) if you cut PROGRESSIVE RATE springs

ANYTIME you lower your car, you should get some good quality aftermarket shocks and struts (Bilstein or Koni)

Stock springs are linear and as long as you cut them conservatively (no more than 1 full coil) you should be fine.

Be sure to get them back in the perch them same way you removed them.

I cut the coils on my 99 Cobra (3/4 coil) and my buddies 99 GT (3/4 coil) with no ill effects, both cars had Bilsteins put on before hand and the ride was the same as before the cut.

 

[cenok is family]

before i put my lowering springs in, i had my front springs heated because the front was sitting higher than the rear. don't EVER do that. HORRIBLE ride.

 

[onequickgt]

springs

I heated my stock springs on my 1987 GT over 5 years ago and the car sets great and rides great. Just be sure to measure from the center of the center caps. I don't see any problem with heating springs just let them air cool after you are done and have one person heating them and you measure them as they slowly drop.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Why wouldn't you cut them at the bottom?? That way you still have the flat edge up top.

 

[svtpower]

hmm

I would not "heat" springs. To me, that would mess them up.

A cutoff wheel makes quick work of a coil (or part of one) if you need a minor drop.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

This is a topic that looks like a really bad idea on paper when you look at the technical aspects of it, but believe me it's not a big deal even with ride quality unless you cut off too much and have crappy wore out shocks/struts. It's a pretty common practice around here. Ride quality will obviously suffer a bit and you will get some bounce since there's less spring to do what it's usually doing, but it isn't going to destroy ride quality.

Just be careful not to cut too much...you can't add it back! I did exactly that when i cut my stockers and screwed them up pretty bad...learned my lesson and bought some Eibachs. It looked awesome but i could barely get over speed bumps.

Here's a pic of my stockers cut:

 

[fox racer]

How much did you cut? 3/4 a coil is the max I will probably cut.

 

[rd]

I have cut springs on the 82, and they work fine.

However, I would cut in 1/4 coil increments, reinstall them temporarily, to check ride height while doing this. I did this on the rear and it worked perfectly. I cut 2/3 of a coil on the front, and it dropped it a bid more than I wanted. ( 4 cyl front springs on a V8 car)

Remember to measure the ride height before you start!

All that said, yes, it will alter the ride qualities, and it will have a stiffer, choppier ride. That was not one of my concerns on the 82, as it is a toy only. My 79 has Ford B springs, and it is as low or slightly lower in front with no cutting, but does ride a bit nicer.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

How much did you cut? 3/4 a coil is the max I will probably cut.

Honestly i can't and won't give any advice there...since like i said i screwed mine up..lol. Start with maybe 1 coil and reinstall them and DRIVE IT before you decide to cut more. They'll have to settle for a little while to really see where they're going to sit. Like i said you can't put it back on once it's cut off so you might have to do it twice to get it how you want it. I wasn't patient enough and cut too much and paid the price. I wanted new springs anyways though so it all worked out in the end. I'm actually about to take a little off my rear Eibachs to get rid of the rake they have.

 

[stang&2Birds]

Cut 2/3 of coil? Cut one coil? Yikes!!

This is going to be my only post on the subject. This topic comes up over and over again. Using the search feature, people can find out a lot more info. Many of us have posted our views. Do with what you want with the information.

To cut springs:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=926953&highlight=cutting+springs

Some older info (Needs to be updated!):
http://veryuseful.com/InvisionBoard/index.php?showforum=2

IMHO, if you're going to lower a car, then do it right!
That means, in order of drop.
o Mach1 springs
o Bullit springs
o H&R RACE springs. NOT the foolish sport series.

FYI:

I'll also add that a drop of 1"+ screws up the CG (center of gravity) of the car (a *Stang*) as it corners. So, unless you go with very stiff race springs, don't even think of dropping the car more than ~1" if you want focus on handling.

Summary (assuming installed in the same car - a stock 93 Stang GT 5speed with AC):
GT spring: ~1,855 lbs of force to compress.
Mach1 Spring: ~1,800 lbs of force to compress. Coincidence? NO!
B Spring: Only ~1000 lbs of force to compress. That's because they are not a spring made for a Stang! They are an OEM spring that Ford offered for another vehicle!

Gee, it seems like the Mach1 & Bullitt springs were made for the Stang by real automotive engineers and not by some aftermarket company selling BS parts, doesn't it?



CC plates will increase the NVH to the car. So will a new steering shaft (MM).

If you want a better handling car, go with the Mach1 Springs. They'll lower the car ~1/2" and up the spring rate from 425 to 600. Lowering a GT more than 1" means a LOT of stuff to consider for a PROPER setup.

IMHO, the Prokit or "B" springs are a very poor choice! The rate is far too low for that amount of drop! You should also put in a bumpsteer kit. With ANY CC plates, IMHO, you MUST use an STB.

Also, a drop of more than 1" is a very poor choice for a STREET car that's used in for the majority of the U.S. There are a *few* places and a *few* people where a STREET car with a drop of over 1" may make some sense.

Fox V8 Stang came with 425/530 front springs. See pg 376 in the book by Al Kirschenbaum. The *Fox GT*'s (and V8's) have ~3.5" of jounce and rebound travel (pg 368).
So, lowering a car by 1.5" with the foolish "B" springs means that the springs bottom out with ~1000lbs of force - which isn't that uncommon in bad street bump. That means that the stock springs allow 75% more jounce than a GT with the stupid "B" springs:

1.5" (more travel with OEM springs)
------------------------------------- (divided by)
2" (total jounce with stupid B springs)


A bigger rim means a shorter sidewall. That means *more* harshness. The tires you pick also make a big difference! The sporty tires (Ultra performance tires) have very stiff sidewalls. That means a lot more harshness and also often noise. Although tread design has a lot to do with road noise.


With the Mach1 & Bullitt springs, it takes just about as much force to fully compress the spring as the Fox GT springs. It's hard to say exactly because the Fox springs are progressive.

See pg 376 in the book by Al Kirschenbaum. The *Fox GT*'s (and V8's) have ~3.5" of jounce and rebound travel (pg 368). A V8 should still have the 425/530 front springs.

So, that's a max of ~1,855 (3.5 * 530) pounds of force to compress a GT spring (assuming it was at 530 at stock height - which it isn't).

For a Mach1 Spring (~3 * 600) we get ~1.800 pounds of force to fully compress the spring. Coincidence? NO!

So, since we know that the Fox GT springs don't start out at a rate of 530 at stock height, we can see how the Mach1 and Bullitt springs are fine for the street! Gee, it even seems like they were made for the Stang by real automotive engineers and not by some aftermarket company selling BS part, doesn't it.

Good luck!

And, yes. I do put my money were my mouth is:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/misc/Mustang1986_with_Mach1_springs/
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/tmp/OTC-spring-tool/

 

[importhater5.0]

there is nothing wrong with cutting coils, people get their panties in a bunch when it comes to that crap. I have bagged cars, done hydraulics yada yada yada, and when you do hydraulics in a car, you ALWAYS cut the coils. When you buy "hopping" coils they are like 2.5ft long, you have to hack them down to where you want em. I Also have 77 Ford F100 i just dropped, i cut 3 turns off the front coils. THe only thing i would recommend is cutting them with a cutoff wheel on a 4" grinder. I have used that and i have used an oxy/acetylene outfit as well, the only problem with the torch its that over time they tend to sag more, takes some ot the temper out them. Just make sure if you do cut them, take your car for an alignment asap, or you will start wearing your tires out and it can get dangerous in the rain cause your camber will be off and the tire wont be sitting flat on the pavement. good luck dude

 

[DocZG]

correct me if im wrong, but i believe the reason why the cars handling deteriorates if you drop a car too low is because the instant center of the front suspension goes too low. The could be corrected with the steeda or 03 cobra ball joints.