Just ordered Vortech s trim supercharger BIG question please help

[mustangfan1990]

Don't waste your money on the AFM powerpipe, pick up the plastic version from UPR, it works as advertised, added 2 pounds boost to my entry level vortech supercharger

Whats the price difference..... if UPR is better why do so many people use AFM. I am not saying you are wrong..just want to get every angle covered before this thing gets here

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

they both work well, however my wallet bought the UPR version

 

[mustangfan1990]

cool I will check it out.

 

[Foxfan88]

+1 on the UPR pipe, i run one and it picked up some power, made 1 psi on my combo and i could tell a difference a little bit and i only paid like 125.

 

[mustangfan1990]

cool I will def do that can anyone answer my question about not running o2 will it hurt my performance as far as the supercharger goes.....and I ma not running a T-stat either

 

[Foxfan88]

yes the o2 is a vital part of the whole fuel injection system. under WOT the o2 has no affect on anything, the EEC has a target AFR to attain under WOT/open loop mode which usually is richer than stoichiometric (14.6ish AFR) usually its in the 12-13:1 range. for safety and max power. for a blower it needs to be even richer, the FMU takes care of this.

the o2 only works in closed loop mode, which is used at cruising speeds and idle (when the engine is up to temp etc etc, on a cold start the engine runs in OL)

anyways closed loop for economy and fuel milage, the o2 works in a narrow voltage range and either reads rich or lean, and the point where to o2 switches from rich to lean is stoichiometric AFR of 14.6-7. thats all the stock o2 is good for us reporting that AFR, the EEC adds or takes away fuel to achieve this AFR is closed loop.

so with no o2s, with the engine cold it should start up and warm up just fine ( in open loop), then when its up to temp the car should run like crap with no o2, its now in closed loop and the missing o2 isnt reporting back to the EEC, so the computer doesnt know whats going on and goes into limp mode and will probably make the car run rich.

so when up to temp idle and cuising around the car will probably not run as good but WOT shouldnt be affect at all and should run fine since WOT is open loop.

so if you want the best drivability and economy i would use the o2s.

i would also invest in a wideband o2, it its own sensor witha gauge reading the exact AFR at all times. so you know if the car is rich or lean and you know HOW MUCH it is rich or lean, a very useful tool and is almost a MUST on a blown car. you cant take chances, a blown engine is very touchy and one instance of the car running too lean will melt a piston in a hurry. forced induction isnt as forgiving as a naturally aspirated setup.

as for the t-stat, that will just make the car take forever to warm up and will stay in open loop longer. if you havent noticed a change without running o2s this is probably why, on a short drive the car probably doesnt get hot enough to even get into closed loop.

 

[mustangfan1990]

yes the o2 is a vital part of the whole fuel injection system. under WOT the o2 has no affect on anything, the EEC has a target AFR to attain under WOT/open loop mode which usually is richer than stoichiometric (14.6ish AFR) usually its in the 12-13:1 range. for safety and max power. for a blower it needs to be even richer, the FMU takes care of this.

the o2 only works in closed loop mode, which is used at cruising speeds and idle (when the engine is up to temp etc etc, on a cold start the engine runs in OL)

anyways closed loop for economy and fuel milage, the o2 works in a narrow voltage range and either reads rich or lean, and the point where to o2 switches from rich to lean is stoichiometric AFR of 14.6-7. thats all the stock o2 is good for us reporting that AFR, the EEC adds or takes away fuel to achieve this AFR is closed loop.

so with no o2s, with the engine cold it should start up and warm up just fine ( in open loop), then when its up to temp the car should run like crap with no o2, its now in closed loop and the missing o2 isnt reporting back to the EEC, so the computer doesnt know whats going on and goes into limp mode and will probably make the car run rich.

so when up to temp idle and cuising around the car will probably not run as good but WOT shouldnt be affect at all and should run fine since WOT is open loop.

so if you want the best drivability and economy i would use the o2s.

i would also invest in a wideband o2, it its own sensor witha gauge reading the exact AFR at all times. so you know if the car is rich or lean and you know HOW MUCH it is rich or lean, a very useful tool and is almost a MUST on a blown car. you cant take chances, a blown engine is very touchy and one instance of the car running too lean will melt a piston in a hurry. forced induction isnt as forgiving as a naturally aspirated setup.

as for the t-stat, that will just make the car take forever to warm up and will stay in open loop longer. if you havent noticed a change without running o2s this is probably why, on a short drive the car probably doesnt get hot enough to even get into closed loop.

well see the car does get up to like 190 if it is sitting long enough and not moving, but it I am driving down the road my engine doesnt get over 100 unless I am in traffic (stop and go) then I turn on the fan and it drops below 100

 

[Foxfan88]

100 is way too cold lol at those temps the EEC is in open loop trying to warm itself up haha.
i'd tie up the o2 wires some way and put in a nice t-stat, i think you would notice an increase in fuel milage.


i see your sig and the car looks nice

 

[mustangfan1990]

100 is way too cold lol at those temps the EEC is in open loop trying to warm itself up haha.
i'd tie up the o2 wires some way and put in a nice t-stat, i think you would notice an increase in fuel milage.

btw post up some pics of your car, i see your sig and the car looks nice

Go here www.myspace.com/90bluestreak

also can I get a link to the UPR power pipe

 

[Tstang90]

Do yourself a favor ditch that POS FMU and get yourself a set of 42 lb inj's. Any tuner will tell you its almost impossible to tune a car with a FMU properly as the fuel curve spikes like a bastard. I picked up power when dumping the 24 and fmu and going to 42's.

And I had 2 FMU go bad. IMO the FMU is a bandaid fix to a fuel issue. That motor was a HCI set up nothing crazy and i made 460 rwhp. Same boost level and a powerpipe also.
Good Luck

 

[mustangfan1990]

Do yourself a favor ditch that POS FMU and get yourself a set of 42 lb inj's. Any tuner will tell you its almost impossible to tune a car with a FMU properly as the fuel curve spikes like a bastard. I picked up power when dumping the 24 and fmu and going to 42's.

And I had 2 FMU go bad. IMO the FMU is a bandaid fix to a fuel issue. That motor was a HCI set up nothing crazy and i made 460 rwhp. Same boost level and a powerpipe also.
Good Luck

Yeah there is a dyno shop near my house that said that but atleast it is managable. I will get the 42 later....I just wanted to add HELL YEAH THE PATRIOTS LOST....(had to get that out) but anyway the FMU will have to do for now

 

[mustangfan1990]

Ok I just ordered the UPR power pipe. Can anyone give me a link on the crank pulley (underdrive pulley) to make more boost. I think it is a 8 reb pulley that I need. Thanks and if there is anyone other advise on how to get more power besides 42 pound injectors please let me know. I think I have like 400 dollars left to spend. I just spent 3000 just now on 1 phone call lol...thanks guys

 

[Foxfan88]

go to aspracing.com

they have one piece pulleys to use. i bought one, came with the underdrive crank drive, and the blower drive was 7 inchs over 6 (what my stock lower blower pulley was) they have 7 and 8 inch blower drives in 8 rib.

that will help out alot also.

i upgraded my crank drive for the blower from 6" to 7" and it picked up 3-4 psi and made more boost sooner and faster.

 

[mustangfan1990]

go to aspracing.com

they have one piece pulleys to use. i bought one, came with the underdrive crank drive, and the blower drive was 7 inchs over 6 (what my stock lower blower pulley was) they have 7 and 8 inch blower drives in 8 rib.

that will help out alot also.

i upgraded my crank drive for the blower from 6" to 7" and it picked up 3-4 psi and made more boost sooner and faster.

Yeah thats the place the people at superchargeronline.com told I could go but I saw 200 for a crank pulley and I was DAMMMMMMMMMMMNNNNNNNNN so I think I will wait and get everything running and see if everything holds up and if I want more boost that would be my next step....I also just ordered a boost guage anyone have any ideas on how to hook them up...and wouldnt any boost gauge work on any supercharger?

 

[Foxfan88]

yeah its just a simple vaccum line hookup is all a boost gauge is.

 

[mustangfan1990]

yeah its just a simple vaccum line hookup is all a boost gauge is.

ok but where at does the vaccum line hook to. I know you have to hook your FMU to the vaccum tee on the back firewall. Do you hook it to the tee labeled S/C lol

 

[Foxfan88]

it doesnt matter where the boost gauge hooks up, as long as the engine pulls vac on it. i'd just T it into the line you use for your FMU or something,

 

[mustangfan1990]

it doesnt matter where the boost gauge hooks up, as long as the engine pulls vac on it. i'd just T it into the line you use for your FMU or something,

Oh ok I know there is a "T" on t back upper right firewall. I know 2 of the Ts have caps on them I know the FMU should hook to one, so it would be ok to put my boost gauge on the other one ( sorry for sounding repeative, I just want to make sure I am doing it right):Zip2: lol

 

[Foxfan88]

yeah as long as its part of the vacuum line system.

heres how i had mine. i had my FMU running to the "S/C" nipple on the tree, about 6 inches or soe from the tree i cut the line, and T'd the boost gauge line into that. the boost gauge should come with a plastic T to use.