Finally!
- Thread starter Venom351R
- Start date
Bosko5.0
Active Member
blksn955.o
Founding Member
That is a wicked alt. bracket...do you happen to know what it is off of other than a 95 cobra R?
I dont think us mere 302 guys can do a cam swap without removing the brackets...I am really jelous of that. LUCKY you can do it that way.
nice pics.
I dont think us mere 302 guys can do a cam swap without removing the brackets...I am really jelous of that. LUCKY you can do it that way.
nice pics.
only for the 95R , its actually a prototype bracket but If its not the same as what the put on the R its really close. This car has a lot of prototype stuff used on the R. The RR Hood is 1 of 7 prototype hoods, the ECU Is a prototype R computer.
Bosko5.0
Active Member
Pics of what?
Well as often feared w/ any project there is always the OH NO or the OH $hit moment, well that hit today. The valve spring kit was all set to be installed and he went to put one on and came to find out they are not even close, so far off they are not even for a Small block ford, they are for a LS1 Camaro, the keepers are not even close to fitting. So I have to get this mess straightened out before the project can continue further.
Bosko5.0
Active Member
I HATE DELAYS!!!!!!!!
To keep the information correct the LSX Prings have been used on the AFR heads for over the past few years according to the cam mfg. Im contacting the previous owner to find out what year heads are on the car and so all this can be fixed and get back on track
To keep the information correct the LSX Prings have been used on the AFR heads for over the past few years according to the cam mfg. Im contacting the previous owner to find out what year heads are on the car and so all this can be fixed and get back on track
I'm running the LS1 style valve springs in my AFR165's, I had to replace the locks, retainers, seals, and spring cups to run them though. Good luck!
Mine are from 2000 so they were the pre-LS1 style valvetrain. I adopted my "old" heads to the "new" valvetrain technology. I did it to get mass out of the valvetrain which was especially important to me because my heads are pedestal mount and I wanted to get as much stress off of that 5/16" bolt as I could. The only thing I retained from the "old" style was the valves as I didn't make the switch to the 8mm setup as it would have required way too much work. The springs, locks, retainers, seals, and spring cups all needed to be changed but it wasn't hard. The only semi-diffcult problem I ran into was that I needed to have the head cut down a little where the spring pocket sits in order for me to get the proper installed height. I also had to run .050"+ locks to help get the installed height correct and to ensure I had enough but not too much spring pressure.
The reason everything needs to be changed is because the older style springs were around 1.4X" in diameter, and the LS1 style are 1.2X" in diameter. This is the reason it all needs changed.
The reason everything needs to be changed is because the older style springs were around 1.4X" in diameter, and the LS1 style are 1.2X" in diameter. This is the reason it all needs changed.
I figured my heads were the 8MM Set up but did AFR change this from 2000 until now? Perhaps mine are the 7/16 valve stems when I figured they were 8MM and perhaps thats where my problems could be coming from???? Im going to call AFR later today and find out for sure what hardware was on my year heads. Thanks paul
rj95svt
Member
If I remember right the ls1 valvetrain didn't become available to late last year on the AFR heads. I would think you may need to talk to Ed Curtis to see what you need to run the ls1 style valve springs on the old style AFR heads. Some machining may be necassary in the valve pocket as Paul stated.
I think AFR started putting the LS1 valvetrain and 8mm valve's in their heads around the fall/winter of 2006 as I fixed my 165's around that time and it was fairly new then. Call and speak with Jason in sales at AFR, he'll set you straight as to what you have and what else you may need to get it to work. You may not have to drill the spring cup area as I think it was more of a pedestal mount head issue as these heads used different valves than the stud mount do.
Paul is mostly right, LOL, we did not start sending heads out with the lighter/stronger spring package until early this last year (2007), January-February timeframe if I recall correctly. A quick check of spring diameter will tell all, even a ruler could tell you. 1.29 vs 1.43+ should be an easy indicator.
Let me know if you have any more questions, Jason
Let me know if you have any more questions, Jason
Thanks Paul, Thanks Jason.
I was in contact w/ both AFR and Ed curtis today. AFR said I have the 11/32 valve stems as ed also confirmed in an e-mail.
This is what ED stated.
I have a set of the standard seven degree locks for 11/32" diameter valve stems and square cut grooves. These should drop right in place of the LSx style 8mm radial groove pieces.
That is what he sent out to me, they will be here tomorrow. The only other question I have is the friend who is doing the install said that the inner valve spring touches the valve seal as if the spring needed to be bigger but is touching the valve seal ok or should there be separation?
I was in contact w/ both AFR and Ed curtis today. AFR said I have the 11/32 valve stems as ed also confirmed in an e-mail.
This is what ED stated.
I have a set of the standard seven degree locks for 11/32" diameter valve stems and square cut grooves. These should drop right in place of the LSx style 8mm radial groove pieces.
That is what he sent out to me, they will be here tomorrow. The only other question I have is the friend who is doing the install said that the inner valve spring touches the valve seal as if the spring needed to be bigger but is touching the valve seal ok or should there be separation?
the spings should not contact the seal. you either have the wrong seals or springIm unaware of what hardware you have installed on those heads.
well he was saying that it appeared that the springs may need to be bigger, would make sense.
