Front end and rearend questions

[doubled]

Hi guys, I am in the process of redoing my 67 coupe. I am currently in the process of bodywork/ paint prep. I have the fenders off and figured I would address the control arm bushings etc. My question is, I would like to lower the front end about 1 to 1.5" while im there. I have found co's like laurel mtn mustangs who have complete control arm kits with a lowered spring etc for about $450 or so. Are these quality parts, or should I take the arms off and redo the bushings myself and powdercoat the originals, and cut my springs. If so how much spring do I need to cut? Or just buy new springs?

Now for my rearend. Its going to be a restomod and I would like to put wide tires out back. I would also like something around 350s or so for gearing [for now its a stock 289 2bbl/c4] but one day I would like to do like a 347 stroker or a 351 etc.
What are your recomendations on gearing? Its going to be a weekend city driver, and also would like to take it on the freeway for 100 to 200 mi trips. As for width, can I put a rearend out of a 66 which is supposed to be alittle narroer than a 67, [to get the wider tires in] or is there a model from another for that is suited just for what I need? I dont hove tires and wheels yet so there is my next question for later. I need to get the rearend in 1st right?

Thanks in advance for everyones input
Dave

 

[doubled]

ANYONE?

 

[Rusty67]

I would get yourself a brand new upper arm from opentracker with a set of 1" drop springs and also do the 1" control arm relocation. Don't get 620s, they are way too stiff. I think 520s or 500 springs would work just fine. I like the CCP lower control arm kit. I have it on my car and it rides fantastic. Also get yourself a nice big sway bar and some roller perches from opentracker.

As for the rear end, you could use a 65-66 in there since it is narrower. Another upgrade to consider is puting an 8.8 out of a 94-98 Mustang GT in there. It will get you disk brakes, 3.27:1 ratio and a posi. If you want more gear then that, it doesn't cost too much to get 3.55 or 3.73 gear sets for the 8.8. You can also try the explorer rear end but I think you have to modify the axle tube on one side to make it fit. The explorer has different disk brakes on it and it has 31 spline axles.

 

[doubled]

I would get yourself a brand new upper arm from opentracker with a set of 1" drop springs and also do the 1" control arm relocation. Don't get 620s, they are way too stiff. I think 520s or 500 springs would work just fine. I like the CCP lower control arm kit. I have it on my car and it rides fantastic. Also get yourself a nice big sway bar and some roller perches from opentracker.

As for the rear end, you could use a 65-66 in there since it is narrower. Another upgrade to consider is puting an 8.8 out of a 94-98 Mustang GT in there. It will get you disk brakes, 3.27:1 ratio and a posi. If you want more gear then that, it doesn't cost too much to get 3.55 or 3.73 gear sets for the 8.8. You can also try the explorer rear end but I think you have to modify the axle tube on one side to make it fit. The explorer has different disk brakes on it and it has 31 spline axles.

Do you know what the width is on the 94-98 rearends, compared to the 67?

 

[Rusty67]

I don't honestly know hard numbers. If you would have asked me that like 4 or 5 months ago I could have just gone outside and measured the one I had in my old DD but some punk kid smacked my car up..... I'm still a bit bitter about that.....

From what I've read, its supposed to fit with no narrowing and provide appropriate back spacing. The only thing I don't like about the 8.8 swap is the stupid Chevy style center section. 3rd members should unbolt from housing. This retarded Chevy take off an inspection cover garbage and the c-clips that go with it are the only reasons I don't have an 8.8 in my 67 right now. That being said, the technology works fine and once it is setup almost never needs to be worked on for 100,000+ miles,