Tail Shaft won't go on

[Lawbreaker5.0]

Alright so for the last two or more hours me and two buddy's tried putting this damn tail shaft on. The thing sticks up about an inch from the bottom and won't go any further. We all believe its hitting the rod that i took a picture of. i'm pretty sure its 5th gear but not certain. It doesn't look like the rod itself is centered in the hole that it comes out of. If anyone knows what i'm doing wrong i would appreciate the insight.

thanks, here are the pics of the rod and the part that its suppose to sit in.


Oh and i dabbed the rod with grease to see if it was aligning up and it does not.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

i swear i'm the only one that runs into these types of problems. i search throughout the internet and haven't found anyone that had this problem. The last time i took the tailshaft off, it popped right back on. Now i've struggle with it for mutiple hours.

Anyone that knows T5's or has taken one apart; i need to know if that rod can move side to side, not up and down when you set the trans facing down with the input shaft facing the floor?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

i would PM mustang5L5 he can do those in his sleep

 

[v8only]

haha, this happened to me on one of my first trannies that I did, and it took me hours and hours of cursing and screaming. In fact, the first time it happened, I started wacking it with a ****ing sledge (I just didn't care at that point.) I dropped the trans on the floor and walked away for an entire year.

So what is happening is that it's going on, but stops with about an inch left...

what is happening, is that when you are shoving the tail on, you're hitting fifth, and bumping it, causing the gear to slide inwards slightly toward the front of the trans.

5th has to be in the exact position, or it won't go on right.

grab fifth gear and pull out on it, out towards the back of the trans. It should pop out and click..regardless it needs to come out further in it's travel just slightly. Once you do this, the tail will slide all the way on with ease.

Hopefully this gets to you in time to get it repaired and sit back and play a good game of modern warfare 2 and enjoy some beer

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

damn it, i missed this and you were actually right, i was drinking a beer and playin COD M2. pretty funny when i read it. i got all excited and went out to the garage and tried moving the gear and it didn't budge. i dont know if you ment pull the rod or pull directly up on the gear but i did both and it didn't work. maybe i'm misssing something

 

[v8only]

It's a killer game isn't it??? cod is the reason why I never get my mustang projects done!!!

My bad, it's not fifth that needs to come out, it's actually the shift fork with the slider that needs to come out. Grab the shift fork/slider assembly and pull IT out a little. The actual shift rail/pole whatever you want to call it is what's hanging up on the tail, and it has to be in the exact position. When you pull out on the slider/fork it pulls the shift rail out and into the right position for the tail to engage

 

[Mustang5L5]

I was going to respond to your PM, but the answer was alreayd mentioned. Def gotta reposition the 5th shift rail slightly. If it's not in the right spot, it hangs up like this

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

It's a killer game isn't it??? cod is the reason why I never get my mustang projects done!!!

My bad, it's not fifth that needs to come out, it's actually the shift fork with the slider that needs to come out. Grab the shift fork/slider assembly and pull IT out a little. The actual shift rail/pole whatever you want to call it is what's hanging up on the tail, and it has to be in the exact position. When you pull out on the slider/fork it pulls the shift rail out and into the right position for the tail to engage

COD is the ****t, i decided to buy it from gamefly, so now its MINE.

alright so i ended up taking it up to the shop i work at (Sears) so there not the smartest in the bunch and ended up taking the top cover to see what was holding it up. LOng story short the rail is free and the tail shaft goes back on, BUT the damn techs (I"m a CSA) freeking didn't know how to put the cover back on and i didn't get to see them take it off. If i did i would have a good idea on how it goes back on. The problem was the hole in the rod wouldn't line up straight with the trans. I looked a the cover and the locking mechanisms seem pretty confusing so if some could walk me through, i'll be done with this damn thing.

I was going to respond to your PM, but the answer was alreayd mentioned. Def gotta reposition the 5th shift rail slightly. If it's not in the right spot, it hangs up like this

Yeah i pm'd you before anyone replied cuz i had a gut feeling that it wouldn't get replied for awhile


thanks guys

 

[v8only]

the lid needs to go on first.

put the plates in the neutral position on the lid...so that the bar on the plates is between the spaces in the fork plate fingers, if that makes sense. Then, make sure the hole is on top, and slide the lid on from an angle. Then you're good to go on the tail

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

this is where i'm at

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

this is also where i'm at. LOL.

On a serious note. i have this t5 rebuilding manual and it says to make sure the gears are in neutral. how is this done
i can spin the tail shaft and the input shaft doesn't turn does that mean i'm in nuetral.
Also the interlock plate i moved all the way around, i don't know if thats a big deal and the rod/shaft seems to barely go in the back of the cover, kinda wierd. i haven't disassembled anything so i assume its still correct?

thanks

 

[v8only]

Try Budweiser or miller, it has twice the alcohol content of light beers one beer, twice the buzz, less money.

Your plates are all wrong. For lack of def, I'll use laymens terms. I'll call the thing in the middle the horse shoe. I forget what the thing with the bar is called that is on the rod, but what you need to do is to slip that deal with the bar into the horse shoe so that the bar points up, and it's base slips neatly between the horse shoe. then you need that bar to point up, and center it between the gaps in both interlock plates. Does this make sense?? I can see if I can take a pic later on.

as for neutral, the slider will be in the center position of it's travel. the input shaft will spin indepently of the output shaft. you can grab the input and output and spin each the opposite way

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

like this right?

do the syncros look like there in neutral?

i saw this too. my trans never grind at all, and shift smoothly so i'm def not ready to start tearing into it.

so i should be able to line it up the way it is and leave the pin hole facing up and it should be good?

i'm mock it up and try cuz i think i did and the bolt holes wouldn't line up and in order to line them up the rod had to shift forward or something.
i'll be back in 5 with results.

thanks

 

[v8only]

Here is a shot how you need to set up your lid

Here is a shot of a rebuild job I did less than 2k on it, with nitrous and powershifts on several sticky tire launches..lol. Told the dude no powershifting

this is how it looks with the sliders in neutral

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

i think i did it with your help. third feels a little weird going in and coming out but i hope its fine.

time to rtv it and play some COD. Man you just made my night. i can rest easily now.

thanks again

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

last couple of questions,

the damper sits on the end of the shaft right?

and i just put a new bearing retainer in, should i have rtved it? cuz this is the time to take it off and rtv it, before i put this thing back in

 

[v8only]

looks like the 3/4 slider on the left needs to come over to the right a tad if I see right.

that chipped tooth won't effect gears grinding...If I was rebuilding a trans, I would replace that, but its up to you. that is attached to the input shaft, so it's easy to replace, just pull the bearing retainer off and slide it out.

worst case scenario, it could chew up the cluster shaft on the bottom too. You may be ok for a while though, it's hard to tell by your picture

 

[v8only]

You can tell if third is working, just slide the slider over, and it should lock third into place...and the input and output shaft will be locked.

not sure what you mean by dampner, can you clarify what you're talking about?

as for the bearing retainer, that gets siliconed as the very last step. silcone the lid first, then the tail shaft.

at that point, you need to check for input shaft/output shaft play. Bolt the retainer with shims on..using 2 bolts. spin the input. it should spin fairly freely, but not be super tight.

take the input and output shaft and try moving it in and out of the trans. you should have 0 play with the input/output shaft moving in/out. If it moves in/out then you need to shim it. left to right play is normal.

after you verify no play, then you silicone. small slot in the retainer points up.

see you online.....v8only on xbox live (unless you're one of those sony people )

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

You can tell if third is working, just slide the slider over, and it should lock third into place...and the input and output shaft will be locked.

not sure what you mean by dampner, can you clarify what you're talking about?

as for the bearing retainer, that gets siliconed as the very last step. silcone the lid first, then the tail shaft.

at that point, you need to check for input shaft/output shaft play. Bolt the retainer with shims on..using 2 bolts. spin the input. it should spin fairly freely, but not be super tight.

take the input and output shaft and try moving it in and out of the trans. you should have 0 play with the input/output shaft moving in/out. If it moves in/out then you need to shim it. left to right play is normal.

after you verify no play, then you silicone. small slot in the retainer points up.

see you online.....v8only on xbox live (unless you're one of those sony people )

Yeah i'm one of those sony people

the damper that i was refering to is the little black rubber piece that slides over the tailshaft. atleast thats where mine was, maybe its suppose to be inside the driveshaft yoke. its got notches for the splines.

well the lid is bolted up so and third always worked fine as well as all the other gears so i'm gonna assume it is fine. it just felt funny when i used the shifter to shift into it.

What shims would i use and is that only to test the play? as its bolted up right now (without rtv) i feel a tiny bit of play. When i grab the output shaft as it sits right now, it does have play, it looks like a lot more than the input does, if thats possible. Also if i need shims where would i get them? i believe i saw one shim in there when i switched the retainer.

Where exactly do i rtv the retainer? do you have a pic, i'm more of a visual kinda guy. lol.

 

[v8only]

that black rubber piece was just a piece inserted from the factory to keep the fluid from draining out the back during install. You can leave it out.

RTV the flat side of the retainer where it meets up with the case..the whole flat side gets rtv all the way around in every spot where it touches the front of the case. Coat it well, but of course you don't need a whole tube either.

the input and output shaft should essentially move together.

do you have a dial indicator?? 3 thousands play or less and you're fine.

the shims come in rebuild kits...couple of places I could send you for shims. I have extra's floating around, but you need to take an accurate measurement.

if you don't have a dial indicator, harbo freight sells them super cheap. I bought the clamp on type that has vice grips. I clamp it onto the case and put the needle on the output shaft, set it to 0 then push on the input shaft see how much it moves. it's super simple. If it's just a very very tiny amount of play you'll be fine, but since you've never done this before, you don't know what's small and what's not. This can wear out a trans if there is excessive play