Work work work and I have a two week break before classes start again. I have the top end off the engine. Hope to have that and the engine bay buttoned back up before they resume.
Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Welding Holes in My Rear
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
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I need to take some more. I had probably 300 or so but my phone cooked itself on the charger and I lost everything last week. Not going fancy. Just cleaning everything up. Had an engine fire a few years ago and whatever chemical is in an abc extinguisher totally 
s aluminum. I thought I had it all cleaned up but while the car sat it just peeled all the paint and oxidized everything.
s aluminum. I thought I had it all cleaned up but while the car sat it just peeled all the paint and oxidized everything.
Crap soda acid eats every thing. I think halon is the stuff that just sucks the oxygen, maybe confused, its me afterall.
Soooo....it kind of looked like my engine bay does right now without the redrat feces?
That really sucks about the phone though, sorry to hear that brother.
A little progress, I got the quarter louvers stripped and primered:
One up close:
One up close:
Yes sir. On coupes the louvers are usually body color from the factory. Hatches are trim color.
I've seen a few coupes with the louvers painted the trim color, I'm not a big fan of that myself.
I had room in the booth with some other parts I was painting today, so.....before
after
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Tomorrow i'm going to do something for Robby that will either confirm i'm an R-tard, or quite possibly, a SUPER-GENIUS
:zombie:.
I won't tell you what it is yet, i'll wait till i'm done and have proven one of the two.
:zombie:.I won't tell you what it is yet, i'll wait till i'm done and have proven one of the two.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Well, i haven't proven myself to be at that level. I'll be a specialized super genius. Wait.....isn't that a savant?
Ok, i'm neither super genius nor R-tard.
Here's my idea, i wanted to make my old seat covers black. Why not paint them?
My reasoning is that interior dyes are simply a thin type of paint with adhesion promoters in them to aid in the binding with the plastics of the interior.
What i did is to take the rear bottom cover, scuff the bolsters and piping with a red scotchbrite, sprayed it with this adhesion promoter
, to include the "cloth" area, then sprayed the same black (at high pressure to atomize the crap out of the paint) that i shot on the other interior pieces (except i added 10% hardener with it) and i ended up with this result
.
I did a durability test on this to see how it would last, this consisted of throwing it in the washing machine and running it through a cycle.
That faded it ever so slightly and made the bolster area just a little bit patchy. I think the results are pretty dang good from this. I had worried that it would all come off and wash away. I'll take this back to work tomorrow and spray one more coat of black on it to cover the fading/patchy crap.
What does this mean? That i'm going to spray all of the covers this way.
The front covers look like crap, but the cloth is actually in pretty good condition. Hopefully i'll get to the yard this week to get all of the stuff I mentioned before and i can try this out on the front passenger seat.
I'll paint the back rest cover tomorrow when I shoot the bottom. I'll be able to put the seats back together maybe Thursday night.
The back cover has some seams that are splitting apart, tomorrow I'm going to stop and get some heavy sowing needles and nylon thread and sow them back up.
Here's my idea, i wanted to make my old seat covers black. Why not paint them?
My reasoning is that interior dyes are simply a thin type of paint with adhesion promoters in them to aid in the binding with the plastics of the interior.
What i did is to take the rear bottom cover, scuff the bolsters and piping with a red scotchbrite, sprayed it with this adhesion promoter
, to include the "cloth" area, then sprayed the same black (at high pressure to atomize the crap out of the paint) that i shot on the other interior pieces (except i added 10% hardener with it) and i ended up with this result
I did a durability test on this to see how it would last, this consisted of throwing it in the washing machine and running it through a cycle.
That faded it ever so slightly and made the bolster area just a little bit patchy. I think the results are pretty dang good from this. I had worried that it would all come off and wash away. I'll take this back to work tomorrow and spray one more coat of black on it to cover the fading/patchy crap.
What does this mean? That i'm going to spray all of the covers this way.
The front covers look like crap, but the cloth is actually in pretty good condition. Hopefully i'll get to the yard this week to get all of the stuff I mentioned before and i can try this out on the front passenger seat.
I'll paint the back rest cover tomorrow when I shoot the bottom. I'll be able to put the seats back together maybe Thursday night.
The back cover has some seams that are splitting apart, tomorrow I'm going to stop and get some heavy sowing needles and nylon thread and sow them back up.
Stop... Try getting your hands on something like VHT dye that you can spray out a gun.
Ok Noobz, here's the problem i have with dyes. They won't absorb into the fabric of the cloth covers any better than my paint will.
I base this on the type of thread used to make the cloth for our seats. It's a nylon type thread that isn't porous and won't allow the dye to absorb into it. This is a key factor to me. I know paint molecules are larger than the molecules of dye. I also know that dyes don't use a binder (glue essentially) like paint to adhere to the threads of the cloth. So, the best results i would get with a dye over a paint would be a slightly less "stiff" feeling for the cloth. Though i already have tried a dye on this seat cover prior to using the paint and it was very close to the feeling that i got from the paint (I know this is subjective, but, that's what i felt), and I had to spray more material to achieve the same coverage.
Since the dye can't absorb into the thread, it just stays on the surface similar to paint. It's binding agents to the plastic thread (with the help of an adhesion promoter) are not as strong as a semi-catlyzed paint with an adhesion promoter.
Most dyes, including VHT products, require the use of an adhesion promoter to improve adhesion of the dye. Ironically, VHT recommends the exact adhesion promoter i used for the paint.
If the threads of the seat had a porosity to them, i would definitely use a dye since the smaller molecules would soak in far better than a paint based color.
Now, my test of the durability by washing might be even superior to what i got if i would give the paint an even longer period of time to dry/catalyze. I washed the seat cover roughly five hours after painting it, though it did receive a bake cycle at 150* for thirty minutes, followed by sitting under one of our heaters in my shop until i took it home to paint. VHT says to allow their product to dry for a week.
Since i'm not really in a big rush, I might try that with the paint. Give it a week to finish it's drying period and give it the old whirlpool durability test again.
If you have more information concerning dyes versus paint, i would appreciate any help you would provide. Like i've said in the past, i sure in the hell don't know everything. I want to be gooder though
.
Droppin knowledge up in here like whoaaah.
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