I hope this isn't too late, or doesn't matter.
Mike, I know nothing about manual boost controllers, but I have noticed that you keep having to replace parts which were of lower quality initially. I hope you know the value of the cheap controller you are (considering) buying. Ya got a beauty of a car there, but you're thinking about selling it due to (it seems) frustration with mechanical issues. I hope you're not adding in another one. And nobody in the world is going to appreciate your work like you can, if it does come to selling it. 272 pages covers a lot more labor than I can likely guess, and I make stuff.
No worries,...there are plenty of home made "brass, spring and ball" boost controllers out there doing the simple job of bleeding off boost pressure like they're supposed to do.
I see the 25.00 thingy that I'm buying as just a better looking version of the thing I could make myself out of the hardware drawers at Ace. I think it's different than the money wasted on the Chinese waste gates in the respect that this thing alters boost signal. It's still a threaded piston putting pressure on a check ball held in place with a spring..(I think they all are)...So in the end,...it's cheap enough to put it in a drawer if it doesn't work worth a crap.
I'm no where at the selling it part yet,...I haven't even had it a summer yet... How it behaves in the Alabama summer heat will be the tell tale w/ regard as to how long it'll occupy one side of the garage...
After thinking more about it, a large part of my discontent with the final product is the noise coming from the engine.
The solution is either a new flat tappet hydraulic cam from the Aussie cam grinder, and 20th century hydraulic flat tappet lifters, or getting the current one reground to accomodate hydraulic roller lifters. One will require a new timing gear.
Both versions will require softer springs, possibly new pushrods,....1000.00.
A hydraulic flat tappet cam will be a power trade off,....but if the noise is the core problem,..that is the cure.